I cut my boxes back and left them short when I did the rebuild. Just glassed new ends on them and called it good.

Used a cordless circular saw set to 1/2" depth and cut as much as possible thru the wood, then finshed up with a dremel with a cut off wheel. Came out real easy.

looks real good US1, I may do the same.

next question. after I cut the stringers back at a 45* angle, how is the best way to patch it back after the new transom is in? I mean the obvious solution is to just install the cut piece of wood and glass over it, but I somehow imagine that wouldnt be as strong as it should be...

You can just cut the 45 if you want or double 45 it. You can 45 it from the top to bottom then side to side as well. This will give you the most contact area. In other words take your skill saw and set the base plate at 45 degrees then make your cut at 45 degrees. Hope that is as clear as mud. :D

makes perfect sense! I was just concerened that the butt joint wouldnt be strong enough for a stringer...

Thats why you going at an angel, more surface area for the glue. If your worried about it you can use west systemsor similiar epoxy to glue the wood together and the joint will be stronger than the wood, just sand any eposed epoxy off the outside before you glass because resin doesnt bind well to expoxy.

I used the West System High density filler to bond the cut out stringer peices back in to the stringer and transom. Don't force the peices back in squeezing out the filler. You want to leave a nice filler bed. No filler...no bond. I cut mine at 45 * angles, or at least an eyeballed 45*.

IMO most of the strength comes from the glass not the wood. You should be find no matter what you do as long as it is not a straite cut.

Maybe Dave or Steve can chime in hear but I think that if you use west systems then go over it with a poly based product you could really have some issued. I know Phragle was talking about sanding it down but my GUESS is that the poly would soften up the epoxy and it would never dry properly?

Audio, the epoxy I mentioned would be just for joining the scarfed wood and cured/sanded off were exposed before you stick any glass on. Resin doesn't like sticking to epoxy, but the only epoxy in contact would be a hairline scarfed seam.

alright so 45* it is! I was certainly not argueing that it wasnt strong enough, I was more concerned...