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transom replacement question

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Old 05-18-2010 | 05:17 PM
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I am gathering up info to start replacing the transom on an 86 formula f3ls. I have read thread after thread and FEEL like i have a decent grasp on what I will be doing. My plan is to cut the old one out (which is what the point of this thread is) and go back with 1 1/2 oz mat, 3/4", 1 1/2 oz mat, 3/4", 1708,1708 all with vinyl ester resin from us composites. That being said my question is really rather simple. What are some of you doing to remove boxes and such from the area when the depth is unknown. For example, in the pic below, the area circled in yellow. I have no idea of how deep this box is so it would be foolish to go to town with a saw or something. what are some solutions you all have come up with. I am also open to suggestions for respirators!
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Old 05-18-2010 | 06:43 PM
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Hey guy the box is nothing put ply wood and by the way i seen this same thread on scream and fly and to tell you the truth does the box sound hollow because if so do not be afraid TO CUT IT OUT because in the long run the box will just interfere with replacing the transom and with that in mind when all is said and done the only thing that the box is good for is to mount something on which would be a very easy task to replace .

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Old 05-18-2010 | 07:22 PM
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also, could someone who has replaced the whole stringer system post a pic of a boat like this with everything out but the stringers? I am curious about the cabin wall and where it would go or what happens with it.
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Old 05-18-2010 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by hawk232
also, could someone who has replaced the whole stringer system post a pic of a boat like this with everything out but the stringers? I am curious about the cabin wall and where it would go or what happens with it.
Just curious could you post pics of the cockpit area and to tell you the truth if your stringer system is rotted in the cockpit area part of the liner will have to be removed ( cut out ) to make way so the rotted stringers can be cut out and replaced and to tell you the truth this sometimes can be like opening a can of worms .
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Old 05-20-2010 | 01:24 PM
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When I replaced my transom and boxes last year, I tool and drilled a hole in the box on the deepest side (side closest to the transom) to determine the thickness of the plywood. It turned out to be 1/2" Plywood. I then too my skill saw and set the depth to 1/2" and cut a small square out of the top of the box. I kept cutting bigger and bigger squares until I got it open to see what was in there.

From there I used a combination of a cut off wheel on my 4-1/2 grinder, a sawsall and skill saw to remove most of the box.

After that I used my 4-1/2" grinder with a flap wheel or grinding wheel to flatten the edged out. I will see if I can find and pictures.
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Old 05-25-2010 | 02:53 PM
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Some info for you on this thread if you want to get an idea about what you are up against.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...ula-302-a.html

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Old 05-25-2010 | 08:51 PM
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Jon, i have read all the way through that thread, it is my inspiration! unfortunatly I may be headed the same route. I know that the port stringer in the cabin is starting to rot, and the bulkhead up there is completely rotten. I am planning it in sections... somewhat. The stringers in the engine bay are solid, so i will replace just the transom (within the next month hopefully). Over the winter I will get to working in the cabin and check the stringers under the cockpit...


ah the joys of an old boat!!
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Old 05-25-2010 | 09:04 PM
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I cant for the life of me remember where I got it, but when I did the nova, I had a couple mini circular saw blades the size of cut off wheels and I stuck one on the end of a die grinder. those roto zips rock too.
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Old 05-25-2010 | 09:42 PM
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All you'll need to do is cut deep enough to get through the fiberglass all the way around, then start peeling things out. If your transom is rotten then the wood in those boxes is probably mush too. You can use whatever you have available to do it, for the duration of my project I've used 3-inch cut off wheels on a die grinder (straight and 90 degree), a 3 inch Craftsman trim saw, 5 inch cordless trim saw, 7 3/4 skil saw, Sawzall....you get the point. Whatever it takes to get it out and whatever you have at your disposal.

The flap wheels work good, but for the most part I stick with the 3 inch Rolocs for the grinding. Buy them by the box, fiberglass wheres out blades and grinding discs quick.
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Old 05-25-2010 | 09:58 PM
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on the inner transom itself, before you start any cutting , grinding etc.. measure at the drive cutout the depth from the inside if the trans thru the wood to were the outter glass begins. subtract a little and set the skill saw at that depth. then from the inside keep going back and forth and up and down untill you have turned the entire thing into a giant cut up checker board of 3 or 4 inch squares. Next take a hammer and a good chisel and start knocking out squares. The closer you can comfortably cut to the outer glass the less grinding your goining to be doing, chiseling is much easier than grinding.. dont forget your tyveks either. Doing it this way you only grind 1/8~1/4" of wood instead of 1.75"


Hopefully you have a smooth thansom, the pop-out one I have made life all the more interesting...


Last edited by phragle; 05-25-2010 at 10:09 PM.
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