transom replace
 

Can the transom be cut vertically down the middle to be put back into place as 2 pieces and then glassed? Looks like they did this on a 24 Cigarette Firefox at Lip-Ship. (see 24 Firefox going to Lip-Ship pg. 5). Thanks.

Just stager the joints on the overlaping panels.

I would also curf cut the joint (cut at a 45 degree agle and use lots of adhesive at the joint when putting it together.

YES,

Cut the first layer at an angle(30* or so) in one direction, then cut the second layer the oppsite angle(and so on if you are using 3 layers). What I did on my old checkmate was to make a template, cut the 2 layers as whole pieces(entire transom), then mark the angles on each layer opposite each other, cut them, then install as you normally would, and clamp.

Yes, I also agree that they can be done in more than once piece. Cutting at an angle or keying them is advised. I also would recommend bonding with epoxy for strength.. :) J

Not sure about 3 layers of 3/4" ply on my Pantera. Thought that at first. My old transom measured 2 1/4" thick. I figured 3 pieces of 3/4" ply. However after getting it out, I have about 1/4 of gel/glass...pretty thick. I figured I had 2 layers of 3/4". Start off glass, ply, glass, ply, glass and then a whole lot of glass to tie into sides...Does this sound right? Also, it is better to put in in pieces? I was hoping to template cardboard and built the 2 pieces of ply outside the boat (ply, glass, ply and then cut into 2)...better to overlap and cut into 2 and build layer by layer in the boat?

You can do more than one layer, however if you do multiple layers the joints must be adequately staggered.. ;)

It would look something like this if you looked from the top down.. ;)


-----------/-----------------------
---------------------\-------------
-------------/---------------------





.

More questions. You do use glass between each layer of plywood...correct? Does anyone use anything in the corners and bottom where new transom goes (adhesive, caulk-West system or something)? Is there a good thread on here that shows a good thread on this (both one piece and 2 halves)? My stringers are good, so I would rather not cut them to get the 1 piece transom in place. So...if I use 2 pieces of 3/4 ply, I have to put it together in 4 pieces and stagger joints and angle cuts?

Usually the plywood or coring is laminated together with resin only. Just the outer portions are usually encapsulated in glass & resin. The better the resin the better the bond and strength of the bond. Again that Is why I generally recommend using epoxy. As far as if you are going to gap fill, I would recommend using thickened resin or a filleting blend instead of caulk.. West makes additives to blend into the resin depending on what you are trying to accomplish.. ;)

Lakeside has answered most of your questions, the only thing I may suggest doing(only cuz I was told to do it, not sure why), is to add a laer of 1.5 oz mat between each layer of wood. My pantera had a very thick outer skin, then 2 layers of 3/4" ply(mine was spliced from the factory, and not one continuous piece), then a decent inner skin. You could either use the same, or 3 layers of 1/2". If I were going to piece it, I would go with the 3 layers of 1/2" Do it like lakesides drawing, but remember on your vertical cut to angle it(approx 30*) opposite on each layer. As far as a bedding compound(bottom, corners, sides, where the new wood is stuck to the old skin), you can make your own with resin/sawdust, resin/cabosil, or resin mixed with may of the other fillers out there. You may want to use Epoxy for a slow cure, make the pieces up first, test fit, then do your final assembly with a helping hand(it is a biatch to get in and out of the boat to mix resin etc.). I did mine with poly, which cures faster, but I also had the deck cut off of mine, and was able to layup the transom as one piece on the bench, then install all at once.