Can the transom be cut vertically down the middle to be put back into place as 2 pieces and then glassed? Looks like they did this on a 24 Cigarette Firefox at Lip-Ship. (see 24 Firefox going to Lip-Ship pg. 5). Thanks.

Just stager the joints on the overlaping panels.

I would also curf cut the joint (cut at a 45 degree agle and use lots of adhesive at the joint when putting it together.

YES,

Cut the first layer at an angle(30* or so) in one direction, then cut the second layer the oppsite angle(and so on if you are using 3 layers). What I did on my old checkmate was to make a template, cut the 2 layers as whole pieces(entire transom), then mark the angles on each layer opposite each other, cut them, then install as you normally would, and clamp.

Yes, I also agree that they can be done in more than once piece. Cutting at an angle or keying them is advised. I also would recommend bonding with epoxy for strength.. J

Not sure about 3 layers of 3/4" ply on my Pantera. Thought that at first. My old transom measured 2 1/4" thick. I figured 3 pieces of 3/4" ply. However after getting it out, I have about 1/4 of gel/glass...pretty thick. I figured I had 2 layers of 3/4". Start off glass, ply, glass, ply, glass and then a whole lot of glass to tie into sides...Does this sound right? Also, it is better to put in in pieces? I was hoping to template cardboard and built the 2 pieces of ply outside the boat (ply, glass, ply and then cut into 2)...better to overlap and cut into 2 and build layer by layer in the boat?

You can do more than one layer, however if you do multiple layers the joints must be adequately staggered..

It would look something like this if you looked from the top down..


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More questions. You do use glass between each layer of plywood...correct? Does anyone use anything in the corners and bottom where new transom goes (adhesive, caulk-West system or something)? Is there a good thread on here that shows a good thread on this (both one piece and 2 halves)? My stringers are good, so I would rather not cut them to get the 1 piece transom in place. So...if I use 2 pieces of 3/4 ply, I have to put it together in 4 pieces and stagger joints and angle cuts?

Usually the plywood or coring is laminated together with resin only. Just the outer portions are usually encapsulated in glass & resin. The better the resin the better the bond and strength of the bond. Again that Is why I generally recommend using epoxy. As far as if you are going to gap fill, I would recommend using thickened resin or a filleting blend instead of caulk.. West makes additives to blend into the resin depending on what you are trying to accomplish..

Lakeside has answered most of your questions, the only thing I may suggest doing(only cuz I was told to do it, not sure why), is to add a laer of 1.5 oz mat between each layer of wood. My pantera had a very thick outer skin, then 2 layers of 3/4" ply(mine was spliced from the factory, and not one continuous piece), then a decent inner skin. You could either use the same, or 3 layers of 1/2". If I were going to piece it, I would go with the 3 layers of 1/2" Do it like lakesides drawing, but remember on your vertical cut to angle it(approx 30*) opposite on each layer. As far as a bedding compound(bottom, corners, sides, where the new wood is stuck to the old skin), you can make your own with resin/sawdust, resin/cabosil, or resin mixed with may of the other fillers out there. You may want to use Epoxy for a slow cure, make the pieces up first, test fit, then do your final assembly with a helping hand(it is a biatch to get in and out of the boat to mix resin etc.). I did mine with poly, which cures faster, but I also had the deck cut off of mine, and was able to layup the transom as one piece on the bench, then install all at once.