True to both above. We redo jobs sometimes for customers that have gone elsewhere. It is mind blowing what some places try to pull off.

+++1

i checked with my old girlfriend. she is Joann at crazyhorsepainting.com if you wanna look at her work. she says as long as the graphics are staying on, do the tape thing and pull off what comes easy. then she mentioned an adhesive promoter, i forget the exact name, and reclear. yes, you will have an edge. but on top, you hafta walk on it and look down to see it.

I am in the same "boat" Factory fountain paint and clear, neglected on a left over "new" 2002 38.

I thought for sure someone would be able to DA this and repaint, I ahve seen in on cars.....isn't called "color sanding"? When I hit a dear on my truck they sanded and cleared the whole side of the truck, the only part that had new paint was the front fender. I put 160k more mile on it and did not have one issue.

Attachment 469570

Most likely they painted fender and blended the adjacent panels. On a job like this if and only if you can get all the clear off you could possibly scuff the base and re clear it over the base edge. But if the base is pearl or metalic just scuffing it can compromise the color. I have been in this business for 20 years. It might sound easy to throw clear on it or use adhesion promoter and clear over it, but I wouldn't trust it to hold up long term.

the finish on you truck was a stable base clear with no issues. Sanding and blending on a finish that is well bonded is no prob. On an unstable finish that is delaminating the problem is finding a stable edge that can handle being worked. Color sanding is the process of sanding/buffing the final coat for a gloss, in this process you do not sand through anywhere (or ya sure as heck hope not . . . ya with me painter guys? :D) and do not expose the sensitive basecoats.

long and short of it is you will spend far more time and effort avoiding what needs to be done here which is to completely re shoot the deck. The time you will spend trying to meticulously get around the problems will be far more then just bite the bullet and get it done. I have developed techniques that allow me to blend down to a spot as small as your hand but it is only good for something like scratches or gouges and the finish must be stable and in excellent condition.

Dave and J you guys got this. No need for my 2 cents anymore. id just be repeating you two. LOL. all im gonna add is "Strip and Redo. thats all you can do"

this from my old girlfriend; The adhesion promoter is House Of Kolor AP-01. It has to be sprayed on light to medium 2 coats. Plus any edges where the clear has broken away has to be sealed down or feather edged. As for clear, I recommend PPG DBC 2021. Its mixed with a catalyst 4 to 1, then 1 part reducer DT870 or 885. catalyst is DCX61. It’s a very user friendly clear. As for how long it will last, is anyone's guess. You hope for the best. It might last a while, it might last a year.
www.crazyhorsepainting.com

I respectfully will not reply to this post. All I will add is that I don't and will not do a job where the quality is suspect. Any work I do is guaranteed...

pensacola FL is a little far for you to travel, i take it? i am not doing this job. i asked somebody with 30 years in the custom paint business and a very good reputation if there was anything that might at least get him through this summer. i paint, do interior work, and do engine work for one customer only. myself.