Replacing stringer, Chainsawed out wood, how to remove remainder and grind?
#1
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Replacing stringer,
Used Chainsawed to cutout wood, still has wood on sides. How to remove remaining wood? I also need to grind surgaces. The gap is 1.5" gap.
thanks,
Used Chainsawed to cutout wood, still has wood on sides. How to remove remaining wood? I also need to grind surgaces. The gap is 1.5" gap.
thanks,
#2
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From: Toledo Oh
You cut the entire stringer as close to the hull as possible, then grind flush, then build and tab in new stringer. Unless its a bayliner, then you hollow out the stringer and pour in the resin/epoxy/paper mache sea cast stuff.....
#4
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Here is a video of them. The middle is 3" gap and the side are 1.5". I chainsawed them out but they still have bits of wood left and I need to grind them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNG8...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNG8...ature=youtu.be
#5
much easier to just cut the whole thing out and replace the entire stringer.
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#8
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"much easier to just cut the whole thing out and replace the entire stringer."
I have thinking of that but These have so much glass 5/8" on the engine stringers, I figured it would be expensive to build up glass that thick. I may end up cutting them out but like the rest but looking for a way to make it work.
I have thinking of that but These have so much glass 5/8" on the engine stringers, I figured it would be expensive to build up glass that thick. I may end up cutting them out but like the rest but looking for a way to make it work.
#9
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From: Las Vegas, NV
it's easy to fall into the mindset of rebuilding something like this to the oem configuration but when working with glass and resin available today let your imagination run. Just make sure you take precise measurements of where everything goes.
What I mean is you don't need to rebuild 5/8" glass on the stringers like the manfuacturer did. I would suggest two full layers of 1708 along with two layers of staggered tabbing. This cored with what ever thickness of wood you need to meet the required measurement and using vinylester resin. Does this make sense? I did what you are doing plus more two seasons ago so I speak from my experience. No matter how you decide to take this on, GOOD LUCK!
What I mean is you don't need to rebuild 5/8" glass on the stringers like the manfuacturer did. I would suggest two full layers of 1708 along with two layers of staggered tabbing. This cored with what ever thickness of wood you need to meet the required measurement and using vinylester resin. Does this make sense? I did what you are doing plus more two seasons ago so I speak from my experience. No matter how you decide to take this on, GOOD LUCK!
#10
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if your looking to add meat then use some 24 oz roving when you are doing your layup... its really not needed though i did 6 layers of 1708 on my stringers and they are extremely strong... at some point you are just adding weight



