Nope did not break on the boat, I had unbolted it and put it aside. Few hours later I grabbed it quickly from the bottom part and it just fell apart in my hand. The transom is SOLID thank god!

How do you guys like the totalboat supplies? I reached out to them and they recommended the following:



Rick White (TotalBoat)
Oct 25, 2022, 12:50 PM EDT
Once you have the replacement piece cut to fit either oak or pressure treated wood, mix some epoxy either Totalboat High Performance 2:1 epoxy or the 5:1 Traditional epoxy with some silica to thicken it to the consistency of mayonnaise and apply a layer at the bottom to bed the stringer in and place it in.
Then try to put it all around the sides if it's a loose fit. If it's a tight fit apply the thickened epoxy to the stringer sides first then place in. Finally cover the entire stringer on the outside and top with 1708 biaxial cloth and epoxy resin, several layers.
Here are the links:

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...-detail/336216
https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t-detail/64343
https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t-detail/97694
https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ct-detail/1441
Rick WhiteJamestown Distributors
Total Support Technical Representative1-800-497-0010
Tools and Inspiration for Craftsmen
Name Rick White
Title Total Support Representative
Office: 800-497-0010
Address: 17 Peckham Drive
Bristol, RI 02809
E-mail: [email protected]

1708 and epoxy?? pressure treated wood???solid oak dimensional lumber??? Am I reading this right??

That is what they told me, you certainly are! I take it you disagree on many levels? From what I have researched Dug Fir is best because it absorbs resin so you coat it before installing it then encapsulate it with cloth and resin.

Pressure treated is never correct. Epoxy will not adhere to it.
Dimensional lumber is sometimes acceptable, though marine plywood is preferred by most.
1708 has mat backing and is not used with epoxy. It will consume too much resin and is less flexible than a good biaxial cloth.

If not using composite use marine ply, look up some of glass Dave's posts he has some great how to's.

I did laugh at the motor mount question why didn't they use some type of al and bolt to it.

They do, its called a offshore mount.

Joey,

My personal preference is WestSystems epoxy and perpendicular weave cloth. I like the perpendicular because you can lay it diagonally over and into corners and it lays down more securely and all the fibers are across the joint, not just one direction.

I also think a stepped joint is pretty important. It will be a PITA to cut a step in your stringer, but it will serve you well. You can always cut a relief chamfer on the outside corner that will fit into an inside corner you're struggling to sufficiently clean out for proper fit. This will greatly increase the long-term strength of a stringer repair.

On the assumption that this is new territory for you (if not, use your own process):
I really like the microballoons (silica filler) for structural gussetting. If you've never worked with it, it is not hard. After you've epoxied in your replacement stringer and sanded it flush (if necessary): Mix your epoxy. Wet the surface you're planning to apply the filler "putty" to. Stir in the microballons. Keep stirring more in until the epoxy is about like peanut butter and won't "pour". Apply the peanut butter to the epoxy wetted surfaces. Smooth it out, like you would caulk around your bathtub. Let it sit while you mix up new epoxy. Wait for it to just start to set, so it resists deforming, but is still pretty tacky. Wet the surface of the gusset and anywhere you're going to apply glass cloth. Apply the glass cloth dry and wet it in with a brush, pushing the glass into the already applied epoxy, adding epoxy only if and where needed to wet the cloth to a uniform appearance of translucence. It's kind of important to get the second batch of epoxy down before the first fully sets, as wet epoxy often doesn't bond well with cured epoxy.

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Brad,
Thank you for this in depth information, yes this is unchartered territory for me, I have worked with simple fiberglass a few times but nothing of this nature so I am a bit nervous not to mess it up but also I wan to do it and just throw my hands up and pay someone as I will know I put the attention to detail into it.

When you say "stepped joint and cutting in a relief chamfer", I am not certain I know what you are referring too. I was able to thoroughly clean out the old stringer it was so far gone I scrapped it out with a flatblade screw driver and a pressure washer.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ct-detail/3842

Joey,

I hope this is clear enough.





Cutting outside corners is far easier than making inside corners sharp enough to accept the insert.

When you get to the point of making motor mount brackets, make them long enough to bolt through both the existing stringer and the replacement, through the step joint, on both ends. This will thoroughly lock everything in.

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Brad,

There is no existing stringer it is all gone between the transom and first bulkhead, I removed it all and want to drop a new stringer into the existing fiberglass trough that held the original. Then glass it in. I thought I would pour some epoxy into the trough to bed the stringer then pour around it even though a 2x6 is a very tight fit. I was going to plane it so it has a little wiggle room to get epoxy around it then cap it with epoxy/cloth.

Joey,

OH..... I see. Gotta love Baja......

So.... Disregard EVERYTHING about the step joint.

Everything else applies, though. Particularly the diagonal orientation of the glass cloth. If you lay it perpendicular/parallel to the stringer, you will only have half the fibers engaging the joint. Diagonal allows all the fibers to cross the joint. Plus, it will lay into corners and over edges a lot easier.

I'd seriously suggest clamping the crap out of that trough once you get the replacement stringer in place. Keep in mind: Thick epoxy is weak epoxy. The less epoxy between the stringer and the existing trough, the better.

After the replacement sets up, fill in any would-be gaps with glass bead peanut butter before laying glass over it.

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991