Full Force

iTrader: (5)

I figured since he was not planning on keeping it too much longer to make it cheaper, if done right and sealed well the wood would be fine, keeping cost down.

I had mine done last winter, transom, all 3 stringers and bulkhead for 4100.00 that included paint, and marine plywood for transom, my stringers are made from 2x12's I like that since it is one piece of wood, not sandwiched wood

Sunshadow

Thanks for all the advice and pictures. I still have one guy asking questions and thinking about buying it. When he goes away you guys are getting me jazzed to take it apart. Problem is if I take it apart it will snowball. If the engines come out then they have to come apart and will need forged internals a stroker crank aluminum heads ect ect ect. All the new glass and engine compartment will have to be sanded smooth and gelcoated. It may never see water again and like anyone else who has done this kind of thing I'll have way more money in it than it's worth.

Full Force

iTrader: (5)

It does not have to snowball.... do the engines another time, they are easy to take in and out, unless yours are not good now, if they run keep running them, it is worth the work, I love showing off what my boat was and is now.

rchevelle71

iTrader: (1)

That is ABSOLUTELY the WRONG way to do it, laminated plywood is much stronger than a single piece of wood, a single piece will splinter whereas the grain in plywood is staggered on each ply, much stonger.

Full Force

iTrader: (5)

It has been that way for 22 yrs with no issues, I had the boat redone the way it came when built, barely wet when removed but I figured redo it while I had it apart.

It did not ROT like the plywood in the rest of the boat, what is stronger then?

AIR TIME

he is right the plywood is glassed together which done right is better, my 88 stringers look like plywood, put I could be wrong I need the bulkhead in front of the motor replaced stringers look go so far and the floor might need some work mine is going in as soon as I am recoved from my knee replacement this spring I have a new 572 bower motor going in so the bulkhead has to be moved or mod wear the belt drive is and I want to add a bulkhead going into the cabin it has plexiglass on each side now plus a ring bulkhead in the cabin we have reinforce the deck already a few yrs back I want this to last another 20 years the past 20 it went from a 60mph boat to a 83mph boat its faster but ran out of prop at 6000rpm. the new motor should get me over 100mph. artie

Pete280

Airtime did you already add a ring bulkhead in the cabin or you are going to? I thought about adding one to my boat, it has a large deck that can flex in the rough, I want to try and strengthen it up.

AIR TIME

going to add one I think if you wrap it up the ends with a layer of carbin fiber it will stiffen it up more Iam putting a full one at base of the cabin and full where the motor is so ANEW BACK SEAT WILL BE NEEDED TOO.

Audiofn

Art you are going to open up a can of worms bro. Unless you get SUPER lucky the gas tank will be back against the bulkhead. So the tank will have to be removed. Then the stringers in the engine bay may need to be replaced so that they can go farther forward to the new bulkhead. I doubt that they should be extended.... Seat moving forward is probably not a big deal at all. Then the engine hatch will need to be extended and reglassed..... Sounds like my POS boat

AIR TIME

I have to notch the bulkhead cause the blower motor won't fit, and the old seat was roughed on the back side, so yeah its going to be a pain but not as much as my legI need a bottle of jack and a bigger chop saw to just cut that phucken leg off so I can move on. still can't drive jon. well I'll call yah to night buddy. artimus is leaving the building.