stero systems
#11
Registered
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: Dayton, Ohio
ok i am going crazy looking at amps . i have a loud boat so i need my sounds to be loud. i have two big batterys and 100amp alternanor . . i have a sony cd player bose speakers and 700watt amp i like to put two speakers in the back with a amp that with work for me . now i read some amp get hot and some need 14.2 volts drain a lot of power ??? so should i just take this out of the boat and start over with new stuff????
As for voltage MOST amps are rated for their max output at 14.2 v. And unless you have some type of power supply or the engines are running you will not have that. When the voltage gets low the amps will start going into protect mode as well as when they get too hot...(nothing ruins tha party more when the tunes start cutting out).
#12
My Interstate group 29M deep cycle has been great. You can get a standard group 31 battery box for it for about $50. The next better option would be an AGM or Odyssey Battery. They are about double price of a standard deep cycle.
#13
Registered
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,449
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Another way to go other than conventional batteries is Kinetik. They come in a wide variety of sizes to fit your needs. I am switching to these this year and am torn on whether to get 2400 watt or 3800 watt. I am looking at the larger sizes to run stereo all day at a 3/4 to 7/8 volume.
http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/default.asp
http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/default.asp
#14
Registered
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 2
From: Wyandotte, MI
ok i am going crazy looking at amps . i have a loud boat so i need my sounds to be loud. i have two big batterys and 100amp alternanor . . i have a sony cd player bose speakers and 700watt amp i like to put two speakers in the back with a amp that with work for me . now i read some amp get hot and some need 14.2 volts drain a lot of power ??? so should i just take this out of the boat and start over with new stuff????
Also running your Amps below a certain voltage (when your batteries begin to die) can cause damage.
#15
Registered

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 713
Likes: 4
ok here another ???? speakers wt one should i get 2ohm or 4ohm or 8ohm . now i no the amps put out 2 and 4 ohm they is some nice box speakers but they are 8 ohm so wish is the best sound ? sorry i no nothing about this .
i just wt to put somthing together the ritgh way
i just wt to put somthing together the ritgh way
#16
Registered
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 2
From: Wyandotte, MI
First try to purchase a Class D Amp for your subwoofer. They are designed for Sub woofer usage as a very efficent compared to others. My Class D amp is stable to a 1 ohm load. I have my Kicker L7 (dual Voice coil) wired in parallel. Each voice coil is rated @ 4 ohms. By wiring in parallel I have brought the load down to a 2 ohm load. Wiring in parallel means the (+) lead from one voice coil is wired to the (+) lead on the second voice coil then to the amp. Same for the (-) leads. My Class D amp is rated @ 500 watts RMS on a 4 ohm load, and 900 watts RMS on a 2 ohm load.
I have a similar set up for my Highs. I run a Kicker 250x2 amp at a 2 ohm load. I have 4 sets of Pioneer Premier 6x9s, 2 wired in parallel for each channel and another Kicker 250x2 wired to 4 Kicker 6.5s. The 6x9s are in small boxes that I can move around, so if on a beach I can set them up on the sunpad...

What should you buy? It really all depends on the overall package you want. If you are going to buy an amp that is 2 ohm stable than I say stick with 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel or 2 ohm speakers wired normal . If your amp is 4 ohm stable stick with 4 ohm speakers wired normally or 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel. (2 8ohm speakers in parallel = 4 ohm load)
Then you can really get into complicated setups using series/parallel wiring but I would stay simple.
Last edited by low_psi; 02-18-2010 at 08:47 PM.
#17
Registered

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 713
Likes: 4
Ok I will try my best to explain this.......
First try to purchase a Class D Amp for your subwoofer. They are designed for Sub woofer usage as a very efficent compared to others. My Class D amp is stable to a 1 ohm load. I have my Kicker L7 (dual Voice coil) wired in parallel. Each voice coil is rated @ 4 ohms. By wiring in parallel I have brought the load down to a 2 ohm load. Wiring in parallel means the (+) lead from one voice coil is wired to the (+) lead on the second voice coil then to the amp. Same for the (-) leads. My Class D amp is rated @ 500 watts RMS on a 4 ohm load, and 900 watts RMS on a 2 ohm load.
I have a similar set up for my Highs. I run a Kicker 250x2 amp at a 2 ohm load. I have 4 sets of Pioneer Premier 6x9s, 2 wired in parallel for each channel and another Kicker 250x2 wired to 4 Kicker 6.5s. The 6x9s are in small boxes that I can move around, so if on a beach I can set them up on the sunpad...
What should you buy? It really all depends on the overall package you want. If you are going to buy an amp that is 2 ohm stable than I say stick with 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel or 2 ohm speakers wired normal . If your amp is 4 ohm stable stick with 4 ohm speakers wired normally or 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel. (2 8ohm speakers in parallel = 4 ohm load)
Then you can really get into complicated setups using series/parallel wiring but I would stay simple.
First try to purchase a Class D Amp for your subwoofer. They are designed for Sub woofer usage as a very efficent compared to others. My Class D amp is stable to a 1 ohm load. I have my Kicker L7 (dual Voice coil) wired in parallel. Each voice coil is rated @ 4 ohms. By wiring in parallel I have brought the load down to a 2 ohm load. Wiring in parallel means the (+) lead from one voice coil is wired to the (+) lead on the second voice coil then to the amp. Same for the (-) leads. My Class D amp is rated @ 500 watts RMS on a 4 ohm load, and 900 watts RMS on a 2 ohm load.
I have a similar set up for my Highs. I run a Kicker 250x2 amp at a 2 ohm load. I have 4 sets of Pioneer Premier 6x9s, 2 wired in parallel for each channel and another Kicker 250x2 wired to 4 Kicker 6.5s. The 6x9s are in small boxes that I can move around, so if on a beach I can set them up on the sunpad...

What should you buy? It really all depends on the overall package you want. If you are going to buy an amp that is 2 ohm stable than I say stick with 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel or 2 ohm speakers wired normal . If your amp is 4 ohm stable stick with 4 ohm speakers wired normally or 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel. (2 8ohm speakers in parallel = 4 ohm load)
Then you can really get into complicated setups using series/parallel wiring but I would stay simple.
#18
Registered
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Mansfield, Ohio
this is getting a bit complex over some power issues, but if ya want to give me a call at the shop I will be more than happy to explain all your power/audio questions to you. Legendary Looks (419)524-3377, ask for joe
#19
I use Stinger batteries and chargers on all of my installs, and all my customers boats. My boat has 2 SP1500D's for the stereo, and an SP800 to power the engine, ballast, and LED's. The stereo batteries are power 4 Wet Sounds amps that are rated at about 5,000 watts all together, but they dont' draw as much current as most car audio amps that are out there.
I also use the Stinger 6A/hr chargers because these batteries need more than a 90A alternator to charge them.
It makes me laugh to see people start their boat at the end of the day to try and keep the stereo playing. That doesn't help whatsoever.

I also use the Stinger 6A/hr chargers because these batteries need more than a 90A alternator to charge them.
It makes me laugh to see people start their boat at the end of the day to try and keep the stereo playing. That doesn't help whatsoever.





