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454 carb to fuel injection

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Old 01-19-2011 | 10:21 PM
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MILD THUNDER & wjb&21nbtown

No offense taken. I agree with your opinions and thank yall for your input. Presently I have an `81 30` Scarab Type S that I love dearly, but I am searching for a 38 KV hull. Recently I purchased an 84 Wellcraft Excalibur Cat with 454 Magnums and Kaama drives. When I got the cat the seller gave me the original 540's that came with it when new, (why the cat has different motors I don't know and the seller could not tell me because that is the way that he received it when he bought it). Over the weekend I tore down the 540's and have verified they have the forged internals. I am presently going thru them to freshen them up once everything comes back from the machine shop, (block and crank) and has checked out ok I will order forged pistons and some forged h-beam rods. Awhile back I purchased a used dual Powerdyne Supercharger 502 MPI kit that I believe Lavorsi Marine offered some years back and have acquired the brackets and different pulleys to mount them one per engine. I was planning to put them on the 540's but now since Powerdyne has gone out of business I don’t know if I am still going that direction although there are still several companies that have plenty of parts to rebuild them. I am planning to go with the Mass Flo EFI although they are expensive because they can be a direct bolt on for the 454’s I am currently using and can be used on the 540’s with or without the addition of the Powerdynes or other centrifugal blowers by changing out the injectors and have the computer “retuned” by Mass-Flo. I do realize that my current TRS outdrives and Merc transmissions probably will not last long but replace when needed with Arnesons. Currently have 3 sets of Arnesons, although one set is reserved for the Excalibur Cat and plan on selling the Kaamas. Sorry for the novel but this is my plan.
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Old 01-19-2011 | 10:30 PM
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Which Arneson model?

Jeff
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Old 01-19-2011 | 11:17 PM
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hallj,

#6's, been buying them for the past 5 years every time I find one or a set for sale at a good price. Currently looking for some stand off boxes for them. I been buying and storing marine related, (heads, manifolds, drives, transmission, etc..) for several years to eventually build my dream boat.

Cliff

Cliff
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Old 01-20-2011 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mrfixxall
their is a easier way to go fi,,not coast guard approved YET tho..you will just have to find a way to mount the o2 sensor..

http://www.professional-products.com/EFI_3.php
I like this set up. Have been considering it for a lil while now.
I made a spacer to mount the 02 sensor between the mounts on my gil style exhaust. I am data collecting trying to get carbs dialed in on a couple procharged engines. In talking with pro. products, they say that you can lock in the tune and remove the 02 sensor after the system learns its curve. If I hit a brick wall tuning my carbs, I plan on going with Projection III.
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Old 01-20-2011 | 09:24 AM
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From: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
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Originally Posted by ckin62
I like this set up. Have been considering it for a lil while now.
I made a spacer to mount the 02 sensor between the mounts on my gil style exhaust. I am data collecting trying to get carbs dialed in on a couple procharged engines. In talking with pro. products, they say that you can lock in the tune and remove the 02 sensor after the system learns its curve. If I hit a brick wall tuning my carbs, I plan on going with Projection III.
Yes!!! it seem real simple,,i was thinking the same thing on mine with the spacer plate and the 02..they said the 02 needs to bo between 3-9 o'clock so incase the o2 gets water in it ,it can drain..
I think its funny how people always ditch the 02?? They say if it gets wet it will go bas rite away..True if its filling with water but think about it,if water is killing the 02 then what is it doing their in the first place..it would be filling the engine also with water..It the 02 is installed properly,18'' from where the water blends @ the tail then it should be ok to leave them in.
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Old 01-20-2011 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by mrfixxall
Yes!!! it seem real simple,,i was thinking the same thing on mine with the spacer plate and the 02..they said the 02 needs to bo between 3-9 o'clock so incase the o2 gets water in it ,it can drain..
I think its funny how people always ditch the 02?? They say if it gets wet it will go bas rite away..True if its filling with water but think about it,if water is killing the 02 then what is it doing their in the first place..it would be filling the engine also with water..It the 02 is installed properly,18'' from where the water blends @ the tail then it should be ok to leave them in.
I have tested and tested and find there is alot of condensation that builds up in the pipes. For this reason Id take it out. I put the turbulator above the spacer to help with water. Seems to be working ok, but have not been able to get are real data due to other issues with this one motor I have now named "BUTT HOLE."
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Old 01-20-2011 | 06:58 PM
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Seems like having a decent base map is a big part of what makes people nervous about going to EFI from what I'm reading.
I'd love to get rid of my carbs and MSD ignition boxes. It seems archaic to me.
Since once the base map is created and there is no need to run an O2 sensor afterward, because there's no real need to go closed loop and have the O2 sensor do fuel corrections:
1. If I used my 420hp GenIV big blocks to build a base map and made that available as a starting base map would that help?
2. I'd probably go Haltech because its affordable but still real.
3. It would run solely off a MAP sensor, Crank trigger, cam trigger (distributor), and TPS. Nothing else needed.
4. I'd offer all the hard parts for a bolt on solution, even the harness.

Is there a demand for that if I did it? Not really trying to make money on this deal, because I'm seriously thinking about doing it for my boat anyway.

I have a race team full of engineers, CNC equipment, etc so I could do it all in house and keep costs down.

Am I crazy to think anyone else might want this too?

Only thing is I probably couldn't get to it to help anyone out until April, its off season and the shop is slammed right now.

Feel free to flame me if I'm off base or sound like a salesman. Not trying to be
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Old 01-20-2011 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ckin62
not been able to get are real data due to other issues with this one motor I have now named "BUTT HOLE."
Hahahaha... It's funny (or not) how some of them do seem to have personalities...


Originally Posted by Rookie17
Seems like having a decent base map is a big part of what makes people nervous about going to EFI from what I'm reading.
I'd love to get rid of my carbs and MSD ignition boxes. It seems archaic to me.
Since once the base map is created and there is no need to run an O2 sensor afterward, because there's no real need to go closed loop and have the O2 sensor do fuel corrections:
1. If I used my 420hp GenIV big blocks to build a base map and made that available as a starting base map would that help?
2. I'd probably go Haltech because its affordable but still real.
3. It would run solely off a MAP sensor, Crank trigger, cam trigger (distributor), and TPS. Nothing else needed.
4. I'd offer all the hard parts for a bolt on solution, even the harness.

Is there a demand for that if I did it? Not really trying to make money on this deal, because I'm seriously thinking about doing it for my boat anyway.

I have a race team full of engineers, CNC equipment, etc so I could do it all in house and keep costs down.

Am I crazy to think anyone else might want this too?

Only thing is I probably couldn't get to it to help anyone out until April, its off season and the shop is slammed right now.

Feel free to flame me if I'm off base or sound like a salesman. Not trying to be

Rookie - I think that would be awesome.
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