I think Later and Glassdave would agree that if you took an air hose with a blow gun and "fanned" it over the chipped area and more clear came off easily, then for sure it is a delamination problem.

Now, I'm not saying hold the blow gun 1" away from the chipped area, just use the blow gun as you would if you were blowing off the surface prior to tack ragging it for paint.

75% of my experience is from a body shop I've ran for over 20 years. I only have about 25% experience with boats, mainly smaller jets and inboards...

I couple of years ago I had horrible problems with delamination in my clear coats after painting a couple of Harleys. I had been using a product called "Auto-Air Colors" which believe it or not, is a water-based, base coat that you top coat with urethane clear.

Well... my problem there was loading up too much clear too soon which then "skinned over" and then "trapped" the gases that needed to excape properly I guess.

I went to my paint jobber with a fender that had delaminated around the bolt holes just as soon as the washer hit the clear while tightening the bolt.

Needless to say, I got to repaint two Harleys for free!!!

I think the only thing worse than a Disgruntled Powerboat Owner is a Disgruntled Harley Owner!!

yep, i use the blow gun method to. I also sometimes take two inch tape and put it over the edge that is flaking and just keep sticking and pulling. You want to find all areas that have poor adhesion and correct them, they will come back later if not done.


Haley i had a similar issue pushing the 24 hr clear times of PPG's DBC base coat. Luckily it was a small piece and was easily re done. It was early on in my paint career and i made sure it never happened again. In this biz sometimes ya gotta eat one if ya "F" up, just make sure it never happens again lol. I also use adhesion promoters on everything now, i like the surface it leaves prior to paint.

I thought about suggesting the tape idea too, but that can be heartbreaking when you throw down a 4 to 6 inch long piece of 2" tape and pull off a chunk of clear the size of a loaf of bread!!!

I think the temptation when bike painting, is that the parts are way smaller, and it is so much easier to want to load up on the clear to bury all the graphics etc...

I closed my bodyshop almost 2 years ago and went into my own used car dealership. I still spot in bumpers and panel repairs if one of my cars needs it, only nothing like I used to do for sure.

I thank god I haven't come down with any terminal illness from painting all those years! I've got am Imron story that will give you the chills and just before I closed my shop, I spilled a cup gun full of charcoal DBC basecoat directly into both eyes!

It is unbelievable what we do when painting....

I know the guy that wrote an estimate on the boat. He used to work for me. He called me when he was writing it and I recall him saying the paint below the waterline was bubbling. Give me a call I am also from Omaha. I would give you an estimate and see if it is something we could spot in. 402-330-4148 Chad

showing my age back around the late 7's ditzler/ppg came out with a hybryd ureathane clear designed to go over lacquer had serval cars out with custom paint. one day a customer called and said you not going to believe this but my paint is making noise when i go down the highway. Of couse i dismissed it and told him to bring it by and ill go for a ride with you. well we got out on the highway and sure enough his clear coat on the door had lost adhesion to the base and when on the high way would lift and flutter and make a noise like celophane wrappers on cigarette packs when smashed. even had the same texture. just about every one of the cars i did in lacquer with that clear i think they called it DBU did the same thing. very frustrating most of the cars were done in candies and pearls. and basically you started over from scratch not easy to blend the old candies. the depth of the color was controlled by the number of coats. There was a true art to painting a car in candy colors and not get dark edges around the fender peaks and door edges.

later

A buddy has done spot-repairs on cars for years.
There's actually a product that is designed for blending the new clear into the old clear. It's solvent-based and its intended purpose is to chemically "melt" both products into each other and re-flash them together. Can't recall the name, but works great.

Prep/paint the area to repair. Clear the new area. Spray this stuff on at the right time, presto.

It's good enough for the BMW and Mercedes dealers, and it doesn't look like crap a year later either.

illness from painting all those years!


lets not forget about all the dead braincells

Yeah... I wouldn't know what to call it...

I'm just really lucky that there are no health issues (as of yet) from my 20+ years as the owner of a commercial body shop. In fact, I'm still into it hardcore, as the Formula I currently own I am completely re-doing, with paint, custom fairing, etc., etc.

I'd bet if GlassDave shared some of his stories, we'd all be shaking in our boots!

There is no doubt about it. Paint and Bodywork is hazardous to your health. Period.

As a kid, I remember spotting in panels and spraying lacquer primer with no respirator or anything!!

The myth of lost brain cells???

Ahhh.... What Dude???.... Ummm.....

I'd bet if GlassDave shared some of his stories, we'd all be shaking in our boots!

lets not even go there Comet or we will need our boots cuz the chit will be gettin pretty deep

I love your posts man, always cool!!

That is some funny chit!!!

Even though I have only been a "visible" member here less than a year, it has been awesome to say the least.

As far as GlassDave goes?

I consider him to be the "Ultimate Guru" of OSO.

I'll bet he's got some stories to tell....Wait, let me get my boots!

Definition:A guru (Sanskrit: गुरु) (Gurmukhi: ਗੁਰੂ) is one who is regarded as having great knowledge, wisdom and authority in a certain area, and who uses it to guide others (teacher).