Have a 2002 25 Baja Outlaw. The original accu-tech actuators are going out and leaking grease. I purchased some from Eddie Marine (I think called Werner Electric-18"?). Anyway, the stock actuators had a sleeve per say at the top where a quick pin about 1/4" went through the bracket mounted to the underside of the hatch and there was a bolt through the actuator and sleeve with a 4" groove in it in case of an emergency to be able to lift the hatch up. Problem is, that sleeve does NOT fit the Werner one-about 1/8" too small! I could drill out the top hole to 1/2" and put in a quick pin but I have no way of getting to it should the actuator itself ever lock up. I have battery leads under the back seat but if it is the actuator itself or a wire lead came loose, I am in a jam! I have seen this on this website: http://www.topnotchperformancemarine...KIT-p1327.html which is like what I have but I can not tell from their description what the inside diameter of the sleeve is. NO way to pull out the back seat and too far back to even think about making an access panel! Any other suggestions? I will call this company Monday. I am trying to find some pipe that is 1 1/8" inside diameter as the 1 1/4" I am finding is just a tad larger and that is too much slop in the sleeve-and I would have to somehow mill it like the link photo shows. UHHHH! Dang BAJA!

You can take a 4" piece of C channel, bolt one end, using nylon nuts so it can pivot, to the actuator and the other end to the mounting bracket on the hatch, again so it can pivot. Don't know if thats clear or not?.

Thanks! Hmmmm, C channel. Do you think it would hold properly going up and down and not want to pivot at any time? I think I understand the concept but not quite sure it would work.


1. Livorsi sells the sleeve on their site that I hope will fit over the 1 1/8" ram that is on my Werner actuator (the stock acculift is a smaller inside diameter) http://www.livorsi.com/catalog/actuators.htm


2. I need to get a safety collar from Dana marine which is 1 1/8" so I do not pull the dang screws out of the brackets and the floor in the transom which I almost did today with the back seat out going down too far! Without the sleeve up top, I took out the back rest in fear that if something went wrong, how would I ever get back in the engine compartment!!! I am not sure how these work other than close the hatch, mark the actuator, lock them in. But how does it really stop? Does it just get in a bind and you hear them overloading? Never had a problem with the ACCULIFTso I assume that my back seat was the stopping point?

http://www.danamarineproducts.com/Pr...c-ec60f8ddc1df

IF everything goes south, will keep the safety collars but buy it all from Livorsi who sells it all on their website to make it all work properly for this type boat-just a little pricey but that's boating!

My buddy has what I described, or something close to it if I remember the set up correctly, on his Velocity that came from the factory and it works fine. I'll try and get pics if you want.

I cut a 6" hole in the "firewall" under the read seat to the engine compartment so I can pull the pin on the bottom of my actuator. The hole is covered with a deck plate (like what covers the holes above the fuel tank in the floor) It's not perfect & doesn't allow me to fully open the hatch, but it does give me enough room to get the lid opened & allows access to pull the top pin to get the access I need.
It may not work for you depending on the lift location, but it's worth a shot.

The distance from my rear seat where I could make a cutout to the actuator is longer than my arm will go. Thought about some aircraft wire run to the pins like a pull cord per say but the pins go side to side vice front of boat to back which would make this easier.hmmmmm. THere's a thought! Maybe I can see if I can turn the bottom mount sideways! Thanks guys for all your inputs! Murphy's law-If "I" don't do it right, it will happen to me for sure!

Question: has anyone ever used the safety collars over the rams that are on the Dana marine site? Without these, what stops an actuator from just pulling your hardware out of the floor or under the hatch?

FYI-Livorsi has a 99.00 kit which is two mounting brackets, the sleeve, hardware, and safety pin on their website they say fits the Thomson and Warner brands. Should have it shortly, solution may be just days away and will look and function the way it should!

Sounds like you've got it figured out but I'll throw these pic's up just in case.

Then to ThemMy actuator used a shoulder bolt and nut to attach to the sun pad. Replaced the bolt with a pin and used a spring ring clip that just pulls off. Ran the tiny braded SS cable to each part and attached them to the under side of the pad so each has a straight pull with a little loop at the end. Just tuck them into the gap between the seatback and the pad and if needed with the pad down, pull the wire to the clip and then pull the wire to the pin and the hatch is free.

I Just don't trust the jumper cable to the clip under the seat to work when I really need it or get that far just to find out that the actuator motor took a dump. I came to this conclusion shortly after having made the special jumper cable setup to connect to the clip under the seal (it was just a forklift battery connector). So I did the SS wire pull set up. Yes I do have the SS wires hanging under the sun pad, but it is not like there is anything under my hatch I want to advertise (show off) anyway.