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-   Do It Yourself, Boating on a Budget (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/do-yourself-boating-budget-249/)
-   -   First Start-up question (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/do-yourself-boating-budget/252982-first-start-up-question.html)

firehawkcat 05-07-2011 09:11 PM
If you are going to take the time to pull plugs take the time to put new ones in

bigblue 05-09-2011 08:32 PM
I "super fogged" my boat too. When I fired up my motor a couple weeks ago it smoked like usual with that fogger smell. Then I reved it up a bit and smoked some more. I didnt burn off all of the fogger till I got out in the bay 2 weeks ago and ripped it. Even after all of this fogger being in there it never ran rough though.

Good luck!

Thunderstruck27 05-09-2011 10:26 PM
Originally Posted by Boat1 (Post 3397402)
Talk more about the fuel system. Does it have mechanical or electric pump. Is there a regulator, if so is it return style. Are you visually looking at the carburetor while running. At idle you should not see any fuel dripping from the boosters, if fuel pressure is to high it may overflow the vent tubes, if a power valve has failed fuel will drip from the boosters while idling. I doubt the fogging oil is causing any problems, how much did you use and how did you use it?
Boat1...I've got a mech. pump and my pressure was a constant 7 lbs last season. No regulator. I pulled the plugs after work and they were black & sootie from running way too rich is my guess. I don't know about the boosters squirting at idle because I had to keep above 1500+ rpm to keep it from dying and fuel was flowing from the primary booster, but not the secondary. The carb is a Holley 4150 dble pump and both meter blks have 8109 stamped on them, but there's no List # stamped on it and I really have no idea what the CFM is either. I know this isn't a lot to go on but...any ideas? Would a pic of the carb help I.D. it? Thanks to everyone for their input/ideas.

Thunderstruck27 05-10-2011 09:19 PM
pics of Holley
 
3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Thunderstruck27 (Post 3399012)
Boat1...I've got a mech. pump and my pressure was a constant 7 lbs last season. No regulator. I pulled the plugs after work and they were black & sootie from running way too rich is my guess. I don't know about the boosters squirting at idle because I had to keep above 1500+ rpm to keep it from dying and fuel was flowing from the primary booster, but not the secondary. The carb is a Holley 4150 dble pump and both meter blks have 8109 stamped on them, but there's no List # stamped on it and I really have no idea what the CFM is either. I know this isn't a lot to go on but...any ideas? Would a pic of the carb help I.D. it? Thanks to everyone for their input/ideas.
Just wanted to add some pics of my holley...I'm rebuilding it tonight. Since it doesn't have a list # I wonder if someone can ID it using the pics and these #'s; 6R-7867B stamped on the top of main body, the pri. & sec. throttle plates have 180 stamped on them, both meter bodies have a 9108 stamp(not 8109 as stated above) and just for info it has 75 jets front and rear. Thanks...

Boat1 05-11-2011 09:02 PM
Be sure to change the needle and seats with high flow .120 units. Also change the power valves with high flow 6.5. The accelerator pump diaphrams are not very expensive and I would change them also. When you start it back up be sure to set the float level and verify the fuel presuure is constant and below 8 psi. Double check your firing order with your plug wires. I also would check the rotor to make sure it is fully seated and the rotor is correctly oriented with its tab. Check you ignition timing also. Fresh plugs are always a good idea at the beginning of the season. Good Luck.

Thunderstruck27 05-11-2011 11:57 PM
Originally Posted by Boat1 (Post 3400909)
Be sure to change the needle and seats with high flow .120 units. Also change the power valves with high flow 6.5. The accelerator pump diaphrams are not very expensive and I would change them also. When you start it back up be sure to set the float level and verify the fuel presuure is constant and below 8 psi. Double check your firing order with your plug wires. I also would check the rotor to make sure it is fully seated and the rotor is correctly oriented with its tab. Check you ignition timing also. Fresh plugs are always a good idea at the beginning of the season. Good Luck.
I bought the Holley double pumper rebuild kit and I know it has the 6.5 power valves, but will have to check-see if it came with .120needle seats. When I checked the clearence on the accelerator pumps I had to crank the spring totally closed before I got .015 clearance on the lever...is that normal? or should I bend the lever on the cam to give me a little spring action at the pump? When I was doing tear-down I also noticed that one of the power valves had backed off about 1/16th of an inch (I think it was the primary). When I saw that I thought that was probably the problem, but don't know for sure. One more question...since both my meters are 9108s and the float site is the same hieght on both bowls...does it make any difference which meter & bowl is on the primary side of the carb? Thanks for the advice/help...will let you know how it turns out.

Boat1 05-12-2011 09:22 AM
The loose power valve will act just like a blown power valve and allow fuel to by-pass, that likely is your idle issue. I know it is recommended to have .015 clearance on the accelerator pump arm, i run them as tight as possible without initiating stroke. You want the accelerator pump to squirt as soon as the throttle is moved. Be sure sure and spray out all the small air bleed passages and the two small fuel passages behind the power valve. Be sure the power valve gasket seats correctly on the power valve, they can move around and leak. The needle and seat you have from the kit will be fine to use. I buy all parts individually for flexability. Be sure and line up the accelerator pump holes in the bowl gasket with the passages. It makes no difference where you place your metering blocks, they are the same, other Holley carburetors may not have that luxury. Good Luck.

Panther 05-12-2011 09:39 AM
Did you by a standard double pumper rebuild kit or the HP rebuild kit? The HP kit has the larger needle/seat. If your need/seat is one piece it's the standard kit. If it's two pieces you have the larger needle/seat.

good luck!

Thunderstruck27 05-12-2011 12:47 PM
Originally Posted by Boat1 (Post 3401241)
The loose power valve will act just like a blown power valve and allow fuel to by-pass, that likely is your idle issue. I know it is recommended to have .015 clearance on the accelerator pump arm, i run them as tight as possible without initiating stroke. You want the accelerator pump to squirt as soon as the throttle is moved. Be sure sure and spray out all the small air bleed passages and the two small fuel passages behind the power valve. Be sure the power valve gasket seats correctly on the power valve, they can move around and leak. The needle and seat you have from the kit will be fine to use. I buy all parts individually for flexability. Be sure and line up the accelerator pump holes in the bowl gasket with the passages. It makes no difference where you place your metering blocks, they are the same, other Holley carburetors may not have that luxury. Good Luck.

Will do and thanks for all your help!:drink:

Thunderstruck27 05-12-2011 12:49 PM
Originally Posted by Panther (Post 3401258)
Did you by a standard double pumper rebuild kit or the HP rebuild kit? The HP kit has the larger needle/seat. If your need/seat is one piece it's the standard kit. If it's two pieces you have the larger needle/seat.

good luck!
I didn't even think to ask for an HP kit...DAMN! My needle/seat is one piece so it must be the std kit. I'll know better next time.:drink:


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