Am I screwed or what...?
#41
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From: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
jeremy,,to raise your engine temps try rerouting the cooling system hoses..i use to do this in jet boats..come off the sea water pump into a t fitting,into the bottom of the exhaust manifolds first,out the top to the front of the block,(you may have to get rid of the crossover and go with seperate jet boat style inlets or try t-ing it back in) then out from the thermostat housing to the risers out..i know you will have to tie your intercooler in their somewhere..this will use the heat from the manifolds to up the heat in the engine,,i would also try and find a 120* thermostat and try drilling 3/16 hole in it.
#42
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From: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
If you can't get temp with the oil coolers not even hooked up, then oil thermostats won't help.
It's possible that since you are not getting enough water temp, the ecu is not going into closed loop. The engine could be very rich this way, and pistons aren't getting hot because it is so rich. A lot of the heat in the oil is transferred from the pistons
Is your transom extremely sooty? Where is you oil temp sender? Another thing I have seen guys do is feed the exhaust manifolds with water BEFORE the engine. Helps get a little water temp
It's possible that since you are not getting enough water temp, the ecu is not going into closed loop. The engine could be very rich this way, and pistons aren't getting hot because it is so rich. A lot of the heat in the oil is transferred from the pistons
Is your transom extremely sooty? Where is you oil temp sender? Another thing I have seen guys do is feed the exhaust manifolds with water BEFORE the engine. Helps get a little water temp
#43
I had a similar problem with oil temps on my 311 motors (mk4 496's) and I built a bypass around the oil cooler so I could restrict water thru the oil cooler but had full flow thru the motor ....it worked great actually ....I could cut about 1/2 normal flow to the cooler and could cruise @ 3500-4000 and run 215* temps.....we are in NE Florida and in the winter the water can get in the 50's ..... If we were doing a poker run or just hard running I could open the flow to 100% and temps were fine ... also note I was running the KE external oil coolers and HP 500 coolers .... attached a drawing
Also my Procharger motors run thermostats ... 140* with the 3/16 relief holes ..... I think the issue is if you race or run the crap out of it all the time you can run no water thermostat and the oil cooler thermostat and be ok ....if you cruise around/idle some areas you need to control the oil temp .....there was a HUGE difference in the the top end (condensation) when I finally got the oil temps hot enough .....m
Also my Procharger motors run thermostats ... 140* with the 3/16 relief holes ..... I think the issue is if you race or run the crap out of it all the time you can run no water thermostat and the oil cooler thermostat and be ok ....if you cruise around/idle some areas you need to control the oil temp .....there was a HUGE difference in the the top end (condensation) when I finally got the oil temps hot enough .....m
Last edited by offthefront; 01-26-2012 at 09:25 PM.
#44
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From: Cowichan Station BC
All good suggestions, Fixx, problem with completly redoing my cooling system is time and money, what I have will work but not currently "tweaked" 100%......my water flow is excellent, perhaps too much because it is not building temp much past 100*, but I think I can live with that, second problem is oil temp, yes I know because I don't have an oil temp gauge/sender I do not know exactly what the temp is but obviously not enough because I have condensation. Is the condensation because of reversion, faulty head gasket, exhaust valve not seating...? That is the million dollar question.
I do not have any signs of water issues in the exhaust manifolds, the risers and gaskets are 100%. The only issues I could have is a "seeping" head gasket, cracked head (highly unlikely with the hours and rebuild) or the most likely problem is my oil is just not getting up to enough temp to evaporate the moisture........
My next step is to remove the thermostat housing water restrictor plate, do a leak down test and turn down the allowed pressure of the water relief valve, I currently have it set at 35psi, if I slow the water down BEFORE it enters the system it might leave a little more heat behind for the oil to warm up...?
I do not have any signs of water issues in the exhaust manifolds, the risers and gaskets are 100%. The only issues I could have is a "seeping" head gasket, cracked head (highly unlikely with the hours and rebuild) or the most likely problem is my oil is just not getting up to enough temp to evaporate the moisture........
My next step is to remove the thermostat housing water restrictor plate, do a leak down test and turn down the allowed pressure of the water relief valve, I currently have it set at 35psi, if I slow the water down BEFORE it enters the system it might leave a little more heat behind for the oil to warm up...?
#45
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
All good suggestions, Fixx, problem with completly redoing my cooling system is time and money, what I have will work but not currently "tweaked" 100%......my water flow is excellent, perhaps too much because it is not building temp much past 100*, but I think I can live with that, second problem is oil temp, yes I know because I don't have an oil temp gauge/sender I do not know exactly what the temp is but obviously not enough because I have condensation. Is the condensation because of reversion, faulty head gasket, exhaust valve not seating...? That is the million dollar question.
I do not have any signs of water issues in the exhaust manifolds, the risers and gaskets are 100%. The only issues I could have is a "seeping" head gasket, cracked head (highly unlikely with the hours and rebuild) or the most likely problem is my oil is just not getting up to enough temp to evaporate the moisture........
My next step is to remove the thermostat housing water restrictor plate, do a leak down test and turn down the allowed pressure of the water relief valve, I currently have it set at 35psi, if I slow the water down BEFORE it enters the system it might leave a little more heat behind for the oil to warm up...?
I do not have any signs of water issues in the exhaust manifolds, the risers and gaskets are 100%. The only issues I could have is a "seeping" head gasket, cracked head (highly unlikely with the hours and rebuild) or the most likely problem is my oil is just not getting up to enough temp to evaporate the moisture........
My next step is to remove the thermostat housing water restrictor plate, do a leak down test and turn down the allowed pressure of the water relief valve, I currently have it set at 35psi, if I slow the water down BEFORE it enters the system it might leave a little more heat behind for the oil to warm up...?
F this Call me bi+ch!!

BTW i think its your x causing all the troubles..she has a little scaarab with a sering full of water pulling off some vodo chit on your motor..
Last edited by FIXX; 01-27-2012 at 08:59 PM.




