So over the VST system. Need help on removal!
#12
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Joined: Jul 2007
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The A1000 (PN 11101) has the AN threads - the marine version is the 11108 (CC approved) only comes with the ORB threads...but Aeromotive has the conversion fittings as well to compensate for this.
The 11108 is also $70 more than the std. A1000 and the marine regulators are also about $50 more for a carb application
The 11108 is also $70 more than the std. A1000 and the marine regulators are also about $50 more for a carb application
#16
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: westville, NJ
From what i hear, efi pumps suck when they have to suck fuel. That is why virtually all automakers put them in the tank. Taking out the anti-siphon valve in pick up is considered by many to be a bad idea. Running mech pump for lift and leaving anti-siphon in place is a safer bet.
#17
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Las Vegas, NV
First thing was to figure out how to cap the regulator at the end of the fuel rail. Being a plumber came in handy. I pulled the brass nipple out, took the O-rings off, heated it up and soldered a "plug" into the opening. Worked perfect.

Now that that was done I ordered the $$$$ parts.

Pulled and blocked the mechanical

Capped the return just in case my solder job didn't work ha.
Installed the pump down low in the bilge pulling off the filter on the engine and post filtered with the aero filter.


Relay with the power supplied from the existing vst pump harness.

Regulator on the transom with return to tank already run when I was vapor locking.... Hooked up to the fuel rail supply. Had to get creative to adapt onto the goofy flare fitting merc used.

Routing from the pump to the regulator over the engine.

Quick run to hoover dam since I had a flat on the trailer that I saw as we were putting the boat in the water.... Always something..... But this is the first time the boat has ever ran this amazing.

Let me know if you guys have any questions. More than happy to answer them. Total time to perform this was about 12 hours and 2 36 packs of beer.

Now that that was done I ordered the $$$$ parts.

Pulled and blocked the mechanical

Capped the return just in case my solder job didn't work ha.
Installed the pump down low in the bilge pulling off the filter on the engine and post filtered with the aero filter.


Relay with the power supplied from the existing vst pump harness.

Regulator on the transom with return to tank already run when I was vapor locking.... Hooked up to the fuel rail supply. Had to get creative to adapt onto the goofy flare fitting merc used.

Routing from the pump to the regulator over the engine.

Quick run to hoover dam since I had a flat on the trailer that I saw as we were putting the boat in the water.... Always something..... But this is the first time the boat has ever ran this amazing.

Let me know if you guys have any questions. More than happy to answer them. Total time to perform this was about 12 hours and 2 36 packs of beer.
#19
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Las Vegas, NV
No the return comes off the aero regulator now eliminating the need for a return from the rail. Soldering and capping the line was kind of redundant but I just did it for good practice.
#20
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Ft. Worth TX
Ok I thought you met u solder and capped it off completely. That's why I had to ask to make sure we were on the same page. I fully understand it. I just over thought what you were saying about the cap & soldering it.



