I've run Rockford, kicker, jl, pretty much all the good ones over the years. But I ran a hifonics Brutus amp in my truck when I built my last system on recommendation from a buddy who owns a stereo shop and the amp has been awesome!!! Very powerful and very reasonably priced. I've had there 1600 watt 2 channel amp running a pair if kicker cvr 12's in my truck for over 8 years and haven't had the first problem with it. I have the amp turned down because when I bought the amp I had plans of running 2 kicker L-7's but never bothered with it because the cvr's were good enough. I like it so much I'm about to use them for all the amps in my boat as the stereo is next on my list.

Check out there website and read some reviews. They make a great product. One of the most underrated amps out there.

Crutchfield has a deal on a 1000w rms 4 channel Rockford fosgate amp for 250. I'd have gotten that, but I picked up two 2 channel 500w kenwoods from onlinecarstereo for 99 a piece! Ill be running 4 6x9s on one and a 10" sub on the other.

If you don't understand how to choose the correct amp based on output at load and the speaker configuration, get someone to help you. One difference I've noticed with cheaper amps is they rarely like running at lower loads like 2 ohms (class ab amps), and 1 ohm for d class amps.

I usually buy the reman ones off of ebay. for less than 100 bucks. The one I have now is a 4 channel 800 w sony. To be honest unless your in a competition or doing something for looks, I dont see where it matters. And being a in marine environment why spend the money on a 4 grand amp, when my $95 sony goes guess what Ill get another one, and wont lose any sleep over so far im on the 3rd year with the sony and no issues. As long as the amp provides the power Im not so sure the sound is going to be any different.

When I built my "system" I used two Profile amps based on nothing more than great ratings off Amazon and Crutchfield. The 2 channel was made specifically for subs and had a separate bass knob that I thought was not needed, but installed it anyway. Proved to be very useful over the years because when switching music types you could adjust the bass to the subs only. The 4 channel was run in 2 ohm from the start and never shut off from heat and the amps were under my rear seat. 7 years later they are still going strong. I think I paid around $150 each for the amps. Unfortunately they are no longer in business.

You have two options with your subs if you are rgoing to run a class D Mono Amp. Switch them to 1 ohm and wire them in series, which will give yo a 2 ohm load. OR switch them to 4 ohm and wire parallel, which will give you a 2 ohm load. Most good Mono AMPS are capable of supporting a 2 ohm load. If yu switch to 1 ohm and wire parallel that would give you a .5 ohm load and that is no good. Also if your switch to 4 ohm and wire in series, this will give you 8 ohm load which would work, but would not be efficent (basically you would be runing your amp at 50%).

My Kicker L7 12 has dual 4 ohm coils. I have them wired parallel for a 2 ohm load which (as previously stated) is running off of a Kenwood 1800x1 Class D Mono Amp.

Amps used t be easy to tell what was good and what was not. You had the amps that were made by zed (Soundstream, ADS, PPI, US Amps, Orion, Zapco, Audison, Autotek, Xtant) All the high end compition amps. Then you had the Japan made amps by the likes of JVC, Sony, Alpine, Panisonic they were good amps, but not like the Zed stuff. Then you had all your lower priced koren amps that actually were not bad amps for the money, names like Profile, Urban Audio Works, & Crunch. Then you had your junk like pyramid. You also had companies like Rockford, JBL, JL and MTX that made their own stuff.

Problem is that alot of the good names were bought out by the cheap companies. They kept the names but just used it to sell cheap stuff. So it has gotten alot harder to tell who is making good stuff. We all know JL is good, but by god it should be for the price. Alpine, Rockford, Kicker and Memphis all make decent amps, and I have personally used them in differnt systems I have done with good results. One kind of unknow brand I have used and been very pleased with the performance and price is Powerbass.

The best thing I can say is look around at what the stereo shops in your area are using. If it's real cheap, it probably is. If you can only find it on Ebay, it's probably not that good. If you get it at Wal-Mart at least they will take anything back.

Speaking of old amps. Mine were originally installed in my ex-bosses 33 Powerplay in 1993. I bought them from him and now they are in my Baja. 20 years in boats getting the heck beat out of them. Running at crazy ohm loads (I have them all running at 1.3ohm and my sub amp is bridged running 1.3 ohm). They sound great have tons of power and have never given me any problems. Mine are Autoteks made by Zed and you will have to wait for me to die before I will ever part with them.

Running time will depend on what kind of batteries you use, what amps you use and how hard you run the system. My system running pretty hard on three series 27 deep cycles will go about 4 hours before I have to start the engines and charge. They are not the best of battery and I need to upgrade them.

That Lanzar amp is made by Pyramid. Not the best of amps. I personaly would look at somethign else. If you like the Rockford for the subs I might look at this for the JL's http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...?itemid=120545

I don't think that is a current model amp, but it should work.

Your subs are dual voice coil 2ohm subs. Depending on how you wire them they are either 1 ohm in parallel, thats where you tie the positive and negative leads together. Or they are 4 ohm subs in series when you have the positive lead from the amp to on positive, then the negative from that voice coild goes to the positive on the second voice coil and then the negative from that voice coil goes to the negative on the amp. So like stated before I would run the subs in series so they are 4 ohm each. If you get a 2 channel amp you are going to need atleast 350watts per channel. If you get a mono amp you will need to run the subs series and then parallel the two subs to the amp to show a 2ohm load. In that case you are going to need atleast 700 watts at 2ohms mono amp.

i bought a battery isolator still havent hooked it up. But I was going to hook the isolator to the third battery. Isolator works by allowing that battery to drain to a certain level and soon as it gets so far it disconnects it thus not draining the rest. then when you start up it it recharges it. I would think one batterys hould give you 3-4hrs of play time. I havent been to get to it yet, but seems like a good idea