I posted a while back about converting drum to disc and got a lot of good help. Everything is on and works great but I have one issue. http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coup.../T2477600.html that is the accutator or coupler I have now and its pretty much welded into the trailer. The accuator itself hooks the brake lines out the back. Well I had/have a reverse lock out solenoid behind the accuator then the break line. Ive gone through two solenoids now, and this is what is happening. Behind the accuator is the trailer jack once the reverse lockout is put in place there probably is 1 maybe 2 inches from the lockout solenoid to the trailer jack. The actuator must be moving and pushing the lockout solenoid into the jack breaking it. I cant really move the jack as its built in there, I guess I could do a side one, but Ive had enough time and money converting this already.


Question is there a different kind of lockout solenoid that will give me more room. Or can I drill a hole through the sleeve that connects the hitch, and put a lock out pin in.

I wouldn't pin it. It needs to move to absorb some of the shock when stopping. Put a short nipple and a 90 npt fitting, on the back of the master cylinder, then put your solenoid up and down. That should give you the clearance you need.

thanks for the idea. I would only use the pin for reversing, just like other accuators move, when towing the pin would be removed. When reverseing there doesnt need to be movement.

I was also wondering if there might some sort of sleeve or shroud I could slip on when reversing.

I would think as long as the lockout solenoid is in front of the axles, you could relocate it a little further down line behind the trailer jack. Maybe fab a small bracket of sorts to strap it on the trailer and re-plumb/wire it in...

yeah I was also thinking of doing that, would just have to run a long wire. My only thought is how far back. Because placed right behind the accutator it stops flow there. If its say 10 feet down, there a lot more line and fitting and connections for it build up pressure. But tonight I was going to take a look at this option

Almost had the same problem on my trailer when I added a reverse sol and had decided if mine didn't fit I was going to use a 45 or 90 deg fitting like c-deezy recommended. Ended up not needing too but that was my plan.

There is nothing wrong with having a 90 or a 45 in there. They make nice brass ones; bought a replacement at Advance Auto Parts 2 weeks ago. My Myco has a 90 directly out of the EoH pump which sends the stainless line down into the frame rails. You could fab up a custom bent double flare extension and put the solenoid a few inches back without any issues.

I would be surprised if you have any movement at all on the coupler/master cylinder sliding when the reversing with the lockout engaged. But I've never actually watched it, so maybe have somebody ride in the bed and video the movement while you take a run around the block or something to see when you are actually moving/breaking the lockout solenoid. I think the majority of the movement comes into play during hard braking while in forward and the master cylinder slides in the overload spring mechanism as the coupler compresses. Could be that your overload springs are wore out and need to be replaced too.

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/Titan...-08388800-900/

Moving the solenoid further down the frame rail could work, you'll have to get adapter fittings to go from npt-m>flare, then flare>npt-f, assuming you are going to use brakeline/hose from the master cylinder to the relocated lockout solenoid.

Thanks everybody. cdeezy it moves when backing up. It locked up to the point where I couldnt back it up a few times this weekend. I think Ill go the fitting route, for now its going to be a block of wood to get me through summer or when I have a chance to work on it again.