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-   -   -50* test 1..2..3.. (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/do-yourself-boating-budget/306298-50%2A-test-1-2-3-a.html)

ICDEDPPL 12-12-2013 08:44 AM

-50* test 1..2..3..
 
Ive been told the Menards special isn`t good enough so I left this out last night.... While there is no expansion its isn`t exactly liquid either
I wonder if that means it won`t completely freeze till -50* ?
It was a windchill of -31* last night.


http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s5/...66647267-4.jpg


http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s10...39349627-4.jpg

mike tkach 12-12-2013 08:50 AM

the key is no expansion.yes it will get slushy,but that is not what breaks blocks,coolers or manifolds.i have been useing that pink stuff for years and never had a problem,guess what,you wont have a problen either.

ThisIsLivin 12-12-2013 12:05 PM

From what I understand it won't expand or freeze solid until -50. Windchill is a representation of how quickly BTU's are removed from an object. Once that object reaches ambient it won't get any colder.

Wally 12-12-2013 02:41 PM

You have to actually read the label....most say "-50* burst temp" or something to that nature....and then most times they are talking about copper pipe....so in an engine it shouldn't have any problems....it "may" pop freeze plugs though....and plastic fittings in the cooling lines would probably be toast....rubber hose...anyone's guess...

92nsx 12-13-2013 07:42 AM

I heard the same thing... I also was planning on saving a gallon to do the same test up here. Only I used all I bought :(.

Thank you for the test, i feel confident the one engine we have pink juice pumped full of is in covered "cold storage" building. Should be good to go.

Side note: Dam that was a brutal cold snap we just went threw!!!!, Snowmobile loved it tho! Operator only like it for the first 15 mins... LOL!

mptrimshop 12-13-2013 07:46 AM

I heard same thing.....I have been having a hard time sleeping..... Thx :coolcowboy:

Knot 4 Me 12-13-2013 08:19 AM

I've put cups of this stuff in the freezer before. It freezes to a hard slush but does not expand.

I've had it in my motors at -20 in years past with no issues.

MILD THUNDER 12-13-2013 08:19 AM

I will say that with using this stuff, you really need to drain everything, blocks, coolers, strainers, exhaust, etc. A month or so ago I was planning to pull my engines out at Icdedppls house. But, the hoist assembly wasn't ready just yet, and they were calling for lows in the 20s at night. So, I hooked up the antifreeze (pink) bucket, and started the engines, sucking and pumping it through until the exhaust starting to look pink. (about 5 gallons per engine). We removed the engines a week later, and they were sitting in his garage. Decided to drain the blocks. Took a sample of the mixture that was in the blocks, and put it outside. It was frozen pretty solid the other day with temps in the teens. Due to it mixing with water.

Now, if you weren't gonna drain everything, Id probably want to use straight pure automotive antifreeze that is meant to be diluted.

ICDEDPPL 12-13-2013 08:27 AM

Later that day it was back to a liquid pretty quick.
My 2nd observation... the bottle in the garage was still mostly liquid.

Knot 4 Me 12-13-2013 08:48 AM


Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4041044)
I will say that with using this stuff, you really need to drain everything, blocks, coolers, strainers, exhaust, etc. A month or so ago I was planning to pull my engines out at Icdedppls house. But, the hoist assembly wasn't ready just yet, and they were calling for lows in the 20s at night. So, I hooked up the antifreeze (pink) bucket, and started the engines, sucking and pumping it through until the exhaust starting to look pink. (about 5 gallons per engine). We removed the engines a week later, and they were sitting in his garage. Decided to drain the blocks. Took a sample of the mixture that was in the blocks, and put it outside. It was frozen pretty solid the other day with temps in the teens. Due to it mixing with water.

Now, if you weren't gonna drain everything, Id probably want to use straight pure automotive antifreeze that is meant to be diluted.

Yes, you have to drain everything. Any dillution with water will yield ugly results. I drain, run the pink through, and drain again. I also ran a test years ago on running straight automotive antifreeze through a thoroughly warmed up, but not drained 5.7L small block. Sucked 5 gallons of Prestone in through the drive and then took samples out of each side of the engine block. One side tested out to -10 and the other -7. The recirculation in the block keeps enough water in it that even straight automotive antifreeze won't keep you safe if you don't drain first.


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