Dont know about the larger tabs but smaller bennett style tabs, you can get an auto retractor for them. When the Ign Key is switched off, the tabs come up.

Chris

I plan to look into that as a precautionary measure, but I don't think I will forget do raise them again. LOL

My next question is......does anyone know what tools I will need to change the lower plate. The boat is at the high and dry and I would like to avoid hauling an entire tool box if I can.

I know I will need the normal stuff:

Pliers
Hammer, Soft drift (punch), and a can of CRC in case the pin needs a little persuading
Lubricant for reinstalling the pins (I have lubriplate and Never Seize.....which should I use or is there another suggestion)

The wrench and or socket sizes would be helpful.

Thanks

Now don't all of you get up at once to help me out with this project.

I went to the marina earlier today and found that all I need is:

(2) 5/8 wrenches and or a 5/8 socket
(1) 3/8 wrench or socket
(1) Big F_ _ _ing hammer and a brass drift to drive the pins out
(1) Slip joint pliers are optional.
(1) piece of scotch-brite
(1) piece of emery cloth

I still need advice on what to use to free up the pins for removal. Will CRC cut through the salt corrosion? What I should use for a lubricant for reassembly. I'm thinking Never-Seez would be a wise decision for reassembly.

Thoughts?

Snap ring pliers too. If you dont have clearance inward, make you drive the pivot pin outwards, and don't hit the hull with the hammer! :-)

P.S.- Make sure there is no burr on the end of the pin before you try to drive it thru. It will either move hard all the way, or worse it will split the casting on it's way thru. I've seen people do both.

I just looked at the exploded view and it doesn't show a snap-ring. Am I missing something?

You'll probably be better off removing the whole thing and taking it home or to a shop if the pins are seized, either cut between the hinges or heat it up to drive it out, good luck!