When to change spark plugs and finally got the boat back to 63mph
 

HI everyone, just a quick question-
D
o you typically change your plugs at the end of they year after you fog, winterize etc., so that it is ready to go in the spring?

or

Wait until you went thru the "all stored during the winter fuel" with all the storage additives and older gas etc., and then replace them?

Also it's been a little cool up here in northern Indiana. I had the boat out today and finally got the performance back to what I was experiencing in the spring.

Thank you in advance.

Safe boating

3pointstar

Fogging oil kills plugs. Best bet is if your gonna fog them, put fresh plugs in come spring as part of your spring commission.

x 2.

Furthermore, run engine for a bit on first start up. Then change the plugs. That way any remnants of oil will be burned off and wont soak into your new plugs.

Thank you all -- I suspected the most logical was after the first start-up next spring and that's what is going to be planned. Another thought is to put the old plugs in prior to winterization and use them

just a thought

3pointstar

And it also kills motors.

Ok, so not to hijack, but I'm sure the OP will ask.....so what's the best way to winterize?

S30 turned me onto this some years back because of having some carburetors get gummed up over our long winter hiatus.

Pull fuel seperator and drain. Fill with gas / 2 cycle pre-mix oil. I do it at the normal 40:1 as I have juggs of this for other stuff I have around here.

Start engine and when the carb is full of this mix you'll see slight blue whisper come out of tailpipes.

Bonus is is that it 'fogs' top end of combustion chamber.

I haven't had clogged up carbs since.

Note: Since 1st year of E10, I had a few billet carbs that got clogged each year. Never had a problem with Normal Stabil or Marine stabil mix before then.

Explain please! :cartman:

My guess is pre-ignition or detonation.

Ok, thanks, I'll go with the 2cycle mix method when the time comes.