Started the install of the engine, it takes a lot of chain pulling to pick it up high enough

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...6645&type=full

Tried to install and it was not going in, need two shoe horns. Took it back out and repositioned the straps to put the engine at an angle tipping to the rear. This helped but still no go. So removed the seawater pump and alternator.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...6913&type=full

Managed to get it in and put everything back on including the new elbows. Most of this was done laying on top the motor hanging upside down. Don't know if I'm getting better or just getting use to the pain. Made a bracket to hold my lube bottle and go figure the hose is not long enough. This one is no issue, the hose is cheap and readily available

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...7252&type=full

And now for the rest of the story, there seems to always be something else. My new exhaust elbows are 9 inches from the transom and about 1.5 inches high and to the right or the hole. Now I need about 12 to 13 inches of flexible exhaust hose. Seem no one has the Shields or Trident 252 of 252V (silicone) 4 inch hose. All backorder 2 to 3 weeks. Starting to think about a 4 inch pipe (copper or stainless) and 2 of my 4 inch boots.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...7687&type=full

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...7728&type=full


Also had to remove the bar used to raise/lower my engine hatch because the elbows will interfere with it. now have to make something up to use the drive of maybe remove it. Don't think this will be a big thing but for now on the back burner

I did exactly that until I could get the full hose in. Used 4" Exhaust pipe, since it was temporary, standard pipe (not SS) was used.

Just called Marine Exhaust in FL asking them about their Flexible (wire reinforced) Silicone Hose. They sell it in 2 foot increments and is only $48 for two feet. Don't know how flexible it is so they are going to have someone call me to advise. Either that of found a 3 foot piece for $189 on ebay which is Shields Nautiflex Silicone Blue Series

I was lucky enough to find an OSO member who was able to sell me some blue silicon hose at a decent price. I had similar misalignment, but with only a few inches from collector to transom to work with. Since you have a little more room, what about a short section of pipe and two of the silicon "hump" hoses? they are easy to find on the web, and most are rated for over 300*.

BTW, I thought I had it bad for having to dive into my bilge to work on my engine. remind me to never attempt to work on a cruiser! I can only imagine how much fun that would be with twins.

I ordered the 2 foot section from Marine exhaust, figure 50 bucks it's worth a try. If it doesn't work out I'll go for the pipe and two hump hoses

Doing the kind of work your doing in the bilge reminds me of when I changed the plugs on my big blocks in the Chris Cat. My girlfriend thought I had gone 3 rounds with a cougar and lost. My arms were so scratched up from reaching between the CMI headers and the inner lip of hatch surround (and the rub rail screw points on the inside) and my calves tore up by the engine mount brackets.

So yes you are getting used to pain.... Kind of makes you look forward to waterboarding.....:silenced:

Why not jus modify your risers? Much nicer solution than wrestling on hose and probably as cheap.

They are eddie marine +3 runners. Don't know how I could get it done. The holes are off due to me eye-balling them years ago when I drilled the holes. Didn't have a template or even look what they should be. Drilled, installed silent choice and tips, worked great for years. Just replaced the 4-wire solenoids for 3-wire and added some pipe to the bottom two years ago. Everything still works today, could probably get CMI to make me something for next season if I run into to much of a band aid

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...9&d=1416415704

LOL good one. Just crawled out and today I'm scratched up and as always my chest is a bit bruised from laying on it on top the plenum. Getting closer, gas lines run, engine aligned, cables on, need to get the shift cable installed and adjusted next

Could it be as simple as modifying the plate that bolts to the manifold to rotate the risers slightly in the direction of the cutouts? You still might have a slight misalignment, but this would make it much more manageable. Since it is a dry joint, there are no worries with internal passages lining up. I know you might not want to take a grinder to those pretty new risers, but you may be able to just enlarge the bolt holes enough to allow it to rotate a little bit, and just put some washers under the nuts.