Another thought, got the fuel gauge working, and I think my alarm system should be OK. Keep forgetting I don't have a MEFI-1 system anymore, have a MEFI-3, all warning faults go to the computer now. the computer causes the ground to sound the alarm. Engine needs to be running first.

Got the trim gauge to start to move, but still will not stop trimming up. Need to get some help to work in both locations.

Ya alarm is constant with key on until start. I think it is a no oil pressure alarm until start.

Chris

Sorry, my mistake I wasn't being very clear. Keep having the problem with folks not being able to read my pea brain

I was wanting the alarm to go off and it never did so I thought there was a problem. With the MEFI-3 the engine has to be running and loose oil pressure or other to sound the alarm. My old MEFI-1 had about a 15 second delay before the horn would sound if it didn't start right away

Ya that what I was saying.. The way yours is now with the key on it senses no oil pressure therefore the alarm is going off. Once started it senses oil pressure then the alarm goes off. At least thats the way mine is..And it is loud as F...

Chris

Budman you were right, Eddie says I need the length to keep reversion down. So I called and stopped the guy from working on the exhaust. I'm going in Monday to see if he can make me a tube to fit what I have (doubt it) or I'll be cutting the holes so it will come straight out. If I do that I'll probably have to go up 2 inches, and with that might need to add length to my turndowns

Starting to sound like it may be easier to re drill the holes make some plugs and patch the transom

Is it possible to just install a set of wedges to at least get the downward angle to get you closer, and then make up the side to side difference with hose?

Aside from that, I don't see why someone could not cut the tails and change the angle on them to make them come close to lining up. Seems like that would be easier than major transom surgery.

Only other thought I would have would be to make some kind of stainless blockoff plate to go over the existing holes and cut new ones, but I'm not sure you would like the looks of that.

If they simply took a pie shaped cut about 3 inches from the end, then bent it inward to close up the gap, that would probably allow him enough room to get a TIG welder in there and weld the inner pipe, and then just zip a weld around the outer pipe, and now you have your side to side alignment mostly corrected. Then have someone fabricate a pair of wedges to kick the tails downward a little bit, and it would seem like you should be able to get things hooked up. I realize that I may not be able to see the full picture from just a photograph. Just some ideas to kick around.

I picked the elbows back up and going to re-install tomorrow. My plan is to put a steel straight edge in side the pipe and bring it out the existing hole. Measure from it up to top of pipe and transfer that to the outer transom. Will measure several points until I figure the inside of the pipe then add the distance for the outer circumference. Then take a piece of 3/4 plywood which I have already cut a 4 inch hole and screw that to the transom. Then cut the half moon out. Once out I'll rotate it and epoxy it back on the opposite side.

Could use the outside of the pipe but it does not give me the same amount of space to work with through the existing holes.

Other issues to decide before I start cutting is, the angle of the pipe is different then the tip. There is 12 to 15 degrees difference. I could split the difference and cut a bit higher, this would cause a smoother arch when trying to install the hose. I will have to use hose because the larges boot I have is 5 1/4 long and the space is 6 to 6 1/2 inches currently, will be a bit less once holes are moved

The other issue I have is the transom is 2 1/4 thick, my holes saw is 1 7/8, so I'll need to cut from both sides, unless something like my jig saw will finish the cut

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...6708&type=full

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...9465&type=full

AD, looking at that picture makes me think even more that a set of wedges between the riser and manifold would both help to correct your up/down offset and help with the downward angle, but there is obviously something that I am missing when just looking at the pictures. Sounds like you have a handle on it. Will you have room to get at the inside of the transom to cut from that side? I assume that you will have to respray the gel on the transom after you cut the new tips, right? Hate to see you having to go through all this. I considered doing something similar for the alignment problem on my boat, but I have a swim platform that already has cutouts for the existing openings, and I don't think I can cut through that. Good luck with it!