The cav plate is in alignment with the bottom of the keel, well at least prior to my rebuild. Didn't drill any new holes so transom plate went back on were it started

Edit:
Just talked to Chad at Hill Marine, he says that since it is a heavy single engine cruiser I'm pretty much the best I can get. While 20% is on the high side, he expects to see 15 to 20 slip on heavy cruisers. Is willing to let me try the 26 pitch but also believes that it will not help, but will hurt hole shot.

^ said the same thing to me. That I would most likely not be happy and end up asking for the 24s back. I am most likely send ing mine back to get tweaked anyways because when I got mine I had some manufacturing dimples. Overall handling is improved but I do not have much to show numbers wise. I would like to try the 26s to set my mind at ease to know i am as good as i can get right now with what I have. He mentioned being able to work the rear prop to get a little more rpm and 1-2mph. Did he mention that to you also?

No he didn't mention that. Sure wish there was a way to hook my boat up to a dyno, it just doesn't seam right, more then 120hp added and does next to nothing better. Engine is running fine but some things just don't add up. Maybe it just is what it is but would sure like an expert to explain why

Dynos are tough because of the inconsistencies from machine to machine. Not one set calibration or tool.

Experts do not want to waste time. We have fat boats that will never be fast..... they say to be happy its in the high 40s or should put that engine in something different.

Seems like you are alot like me. Like things for me.. oh and fat things that aren't supposed to be fast. I am in a long process of repowering my 2500 suburban. Used to be 454 with a Whipple now i converted it to the modern 6.0 and going twin turbo. Also converted it from 4wd to awd for traction. It won't be a 9 sec truck but it will be fast for what it is. The thing is it will keep getting faster as i work on it and add hp. Started stock running 17.3 in the 1/4. Took the 7k truck to 14.7 spinning 22inch wheels thru the 60'. I know I will be faster with the 6.0TT. Weird how the same doesn't apply to the boat..

All Dodge I think you are right that even 120 hp isn't enough to make a difference with that hull. I'm lucky enough to be on a lake with a great prop shop, on Friday I tried 7 props ( 4 blades and 3 blades) the best gain from current was 3 mph trimmed up higher than I would be comfortable with. Some great improvements in the mid range where I gained 5 mph at 3000 and 3500 rpm but that same prop wouldn't let me rev past 4400 so my top speed was the same and the nose was plowing. We decided to add some cup to my current 4 blade to drop rpm by 200 for slight economy improvement and mid range performance where I use it most and call it a day. For $120 bucks it makes the most sense. My fat ass hull simply doesn't respond to performance or prop improvements unless they are significant. The worst part of the day is I forgot one prop on the swim platform and lost it so I ended up buying a prop anyway, what an idiot.

Ya know stimleck your probably right but add 120 and gain nothing (with 3x3 and going from 24 to 26 pitch) is just to hard to swallow. Add another blade and go to 4x4 and gain 1mph isn't much. BTW the 1mph was done with less the a 1/4 tank and only me in the boat.

I posted a new thread on iboats in the prop section, was told there is a guy over there which has a lot of knowledge with heavy boats and props.

I think somebody said something like this was likely to happen at the beginning of this thread.

For me it was 100 hp same result smaller boat

You also went from a standard Bravo to an XR which is eating up some of that additional HP.

All, although I've followed this thread I don't remember weather you modified the throttle body? If not, that is a big restriction on that set up.