Worry free?! I did log into a boating forum here right?! LOL! But yes you are right it does inspire confidence in knowing I know a tad bit more about my boats systems and who knows may even be able to help someone else out in the future. Gotta start somewhere right?!

You can use these military grade circuit breaker switches in place of your existing switches and eliminate the separate circuit breakers. That eliminates a pair of connections and reduces the resistance on the circuit overall. They come from 5 amps to 50 amps. They are made by Airpax and are basically indestructible.
http://www.starmarinedepot.com/panel.../pzz20427.html

Do not solder anything in a boat the solder creates a rigid connection point that can crack due to vibration from pounding through the waves. Good quality marine wire with many fine strands will hold up to the vibration much better.

Use tinned marine grade wire and heat shrink connectors on everything.

Spray everything with CorrosionX when done.

You won't have any more problems unless something is getting bathed by saltwater constantly.

pstorti: Those are too tall with the toggle switches to fit under the seat I think and wont bolt in the existing panel. I ordered the OE ones and they supposedly shipped out already but thanks for looking out! Funny you mentioned the "CorrosionX" I actually have some in my garage I use on my prerunner desert truck and I'll be sure to douche all the connections with it like you said.

Received my 40A breakers and waiting for the 20A one to show up from backorder. Ordered a little Dremel torch kit for the heat shrinking and ordered some nice marine 10 AWG wire and some butt connectors to have extra for other things that are likely to pop up... Still waiting to order the ring terminals since they are on backorder from Genuinedealz.com and like US1 said they are the best deal @ $10.58 for 25. West Marine wanted $5.99 for only three terminals! Just waiting to get everything so I can get this done and see if my problem is gone!

Saw them already but I don't need 100 and the other place ships free. What can I say if I've seen a lower price I want a deal! Guess I'm cheap in SOME ways lol

If you are using the connectors that have the heat shrink on them, be sure to use the right crimp jaw. The jaws for them are nice smooth. You don't want to use the jaw for the non insulated connectors that has that tang to dimple the connector as you crimp it. That tang will cut thru the heat shrink, defeating the whole purpose.
I use a heat gun for shrinking the tube. Just easier for me to prevent burning the shrink from the torch type. You should be good to go when done. The warm wires confirms that. Heck, you probably coulda cleaned up all the connectors and just installed new breakers/screws (and make sure they are tight) and been good for another 20 yrs. I didn't see anything alarming with the wire connectors. :) Good luck

Good point on the crimping I didn't think about that. I'm used to "dry" motorsports so I've never used the heat shrink type. I will make sure my crimpers have that style of jaw and if not I'll find some ratcheting type you mentioned to buy. I think my new torch I ordered has some attachments to prevent burning the heat shrink but if not I have a heat gun also. You are probably right with just cleaning them up and running it. I'm not going to replace every terminal just the damaged ones and the burnt wires. I may not even do all of the breakers but you never know how much will break when you take it all apart... better to be prepared!

I thought I would put this question here.
Has anyone used/ found a good water proof connector? I am thinking it would be good to use on my bilge pumps (3 wire) and blower motors so if/ when they need changed again its not bad. Just thinking.

DD,,,,,,,,, Errrrr Mr Roth?

When I was talking about your wires that came off of the breaker this is what I meant. This used to go to the trim pump and it has a spade connector on it. Notice these factory connectors are the crimped and sealed type. The second picture is trying to show some of the other issues mine had.

Not sure if you can see but the one spade is burned and black, it was a very bad connection. the other wire pulled right out. Bad crimp.

I wired mine direct now. On my breakers they did have a "power" bar that went down one side for the breakers and was feed by I think two wires. When I was done I wire tied all those wires to the bar and then there is holes by the panel so once its mounted you can tie the bundle up to the rear seat. No movement.

BTW

My boat has never seen salt water.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]536243[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]536244[/ATTACH]

I don't think Mr. Roth could keep it together long enough so see a thread through to it's end... He still sounds GREAT in concert though! I saw them here in Portland a few years back it was AWESOME (if you like Van Halen that is)!

I see now what you are talking about I need to check the rest of the wiring in that area and trace the other ends of the affected wires since they could have connectors like yours as well... I like the idea of zip tying everything tight I think I will do that also if I can. The wires are pretty short when I was removing the breaker panel though it wouldn't go much further than what it was in the pictures. I think some of the wiring to my amps is tied to the OE wiring causing this. I will make sure all that is clean and tied up neatly though. I didn't see any "power bar" on the breaker panel so maybe mine is different? I am also worried about the battery switches and think I will pull off the covers of them for inspection too since they are in the same area and have a very high likelihood of them being corroded as well. Since this boat has little to none storage (that statement is being overly generous BTW) things like wet fenders, wet anchors and wet rope always get thrown in there. Oh well it's all lasted this long so a little PM here and there is ok with me.