DIY - Duramax Marinisation
07-23-2016, 01:22 AM
#102
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Very similar looking core isn't it. Any idea who builds those? Banks switched it up a bit in his design. Rather than passing the air through twice, he passes the water twice. See the small bar separating the upper and lower halves tubes of the core above. The other end you can't see is capped off. Same principle, but cold water inters the top and exits the bottom half.
I'll let you know how good they actually work in a few weeks, there is two of those Banks intakes in my shop right now.
I'll let you know how good they actually work in a few weeks, there is two of those Banks intakes in my shop right now.
08-30-2016, 03:57 PM
#104
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Hi Kidturbo,
I really appreciate the wealth of info you've posted. I've been scouring the web for a few years for info like this because I have been planning on converting my 17,000 lb aluminum commercial fishing vessel to a duramax from my old detroit diesel. I'm currently keel cooled and I was wondering if you had an opinion on water to air intercoolers when no raw water will be used. Do you think returning coolant from the keel cooler should be routed first into the water to air intake cooler or do you think warmed returning water jacket water would suffice? Also, do you have a suggestion on marine gears? I was looking for a marine gear that would bolt up to a duramax and provide 1:1 ratio so that I could use my current prop but I'm not sure which gears are up for this level torque. My current arrangement is a velvet drive, I fairly certain it would rip apart in the first five minutes if I were to keep it.
My conversion will be quite a bit simpler than yours as I have a large dry exhaust stack and virtually unlimited room in the engine room. The engine room does get hot and I was wondering if you would recommend plumbing my air intake directly to outside air so it stays cool. I certainly don't need more than 500 HP so if you think this is an unnecessary step then I'll simply draw air from the engine room. Also I appreciate your discussion on manifold temperatures. I currently run a water cooled manifold but I'd like to save as much money as possible in this conversion. Do you think I could adequately insulate the manifolds with customized fiberglass wraps? It seems like a tall order to me. Thanks for the great info you've posted so far!
I really appreciate the wealth of info you've posted. I've been scouring the web for a few years for info like this because I have been planning on converting my 17,000 lb aluminum commercial fishing vessel to a duramax from my old detroit diesel. I'm currently keel cooled and I was wondering if you had an opinion on water to air intercoolers when no raw water will be used. Do you think returning coolant from the keel cooler should be routed first into the water to air intake cooler or do you think warmed returning water jacket water would suffice? Also, do you have a suggestion on marine gears? I was looking for a marine gear that would bolt up to a duramax and provide 1:1 ratio so that I could use my current prop but I'm not sure which gears are up for this level torque. My current arrangement is a velvet drive, I fairly certain it would rip apart in the first five minutes if I were to keep it.
My conversion will be quite a bit simpler than yours as I have a large dry exhaust stack and virtually unlimited room in the engine room. The engine room does get hot and I was wondering if you would recommend plumbing my air intake directly to outside air so it stays cool. I certainly don't need more than 500 HP so if you think this is an unnecessary step then I'll simply draw air from the engine room. Also I appreciate your discussion on manifold temperatures. I currently run a water cooled manifold but I'd like to save as much money as possible in this conversion. Do you think I could adequately insulate the manifolds with customized fiberglass wraps? It seems like a tall order to me. Thanks for the great info you've posted so far!
08-31-2016, 01:20 PM
#105
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I have zero experience with keel coolers, so no real idea how efficient they are. But in a normal setup you'd want to avoid cooling the charged air and engine on a single closed loop system. Unless there's a massive amount of coolant involved with a very LARGE efficient exchanger. The air charge under load can reach 400F and requires upwards of 40-50 gallons per minute of coolant flow alone. I would look at the KW rating on your keel cooler and compare that to the old engine setup KW and a Duramax power ratings for a better idea. You could test with that setup, then at worst just move the charge cooler to a stand alone seawater pump if it doesn't work out.
Since your not looking to exceed 500hp, I'd stick with the Velvet drive. Maybe freshen it up with some good clutches while out. There is a couple members on here who build them to hold 1000hp plus gas engines without issues. Check out http://www.hubermarine.com/performance.html for options. Another member is currently installing two behind 500hp units right now. Maybe he will reply with any mods he did to them. The only other good choices out there to handle the power with gearing you want are ZF and Twin Disk. Both make good stuff. I'm working on custom trans builds right now, and it's a pain...
On the exhaust and intake, colder air means less work for the charge cooler. But if you have a large engine room, just wrap all the exhaust good and you'll be fine. Plan on exhaust temps in the 1300F range at wide open. I've toured a few mega yacht engine rooms, they typically have water cooled manifolds and turbos, then wrapped dry stacks.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]558924[/ATTACH]
Since your not looking to exceed 500hp, I'd stick with the Velvet drive. Maybe freshen it up with some good clutches while out. There is a couple members on here who build them to hold 1000hp plus gas engines without issues. Check out http://www.hubermarine.com/performance.html for options. Another member is currently installing two behind 500hp units right now. Maybe he will reply with any mods he did to them. The only other good choices out there to handle the power with gearing you want are ZF and Twin Disk. Both make good stuff. I'm working on custom trans builds right now, and it's a pain...
On the exhaust and intake, colder air means less work for the charge cooler. But if you have a large engine room, just wrap all the exhaust good and you'll be fine. Plan on exhaust temps in the 1300F range at wide open. I've toured a few mega yacht engine rooms, they typically have water cooled manifolds and turbos, then wrapped dry stacks.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]558924[/ATTACH]
08-31-2016, 11:22 PM
#106
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here is the link for the water Cooled headers that my dad has made for the duramax motors that will be for sale.
https://www.facebook.com/25733290763...type=3&theater
https://www.facebook.com/25733290763...type=3&theater
09-01-2016, 05:08 PM
#107
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Thanks Kidturbo. I think I'll try the keel cooler and see how it does. There's no way to determine its rated efficiency based on the specs because its just a series of pipes welded to the hull, not a manufactured cooler. Ocean water temps are 60 on the hottest day of the year and generally the faster the boat moves the more cooling power the cooler has. With my detroit I'm unable to load the motor high enough to budge my running temperature under any conditions, so there is definitely extra capacity built in. The return end of the cooler doesn't even get hot enough to kill the barnacles growing on it! I'm hesitant to start pulling any seawater into the boat because it can freeze, and I'd hate to rely on a rubber hose to keep me afloat. Thanks for the info on V drive, I'll look into keeping it.
10-16-2016, 02:08 PM
#109
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I have zero experience with keel coolers, so no real idea how efficient they are. But in a normal setup you'd want to avoid cooling the charged air and engine on a single closed loop system. Unless there's a massive amount of coolant involved with a very LARGE efficient exchanger. The air charge under load can reach 400F and requires upwards of 40-50 gallons per minute of coolant flow alone. I would look at the KW rating on your keel cooler and compare that to the old engine setup KW and a Duramax power ratings for a better idea. You could test with that setup, then at worst just move the charge cooler to a stand alone seawater pump if it doesn't work out.
Since your not looking to exceed 500hp, I'd stick with the Velvet drive. Maybe freshen it up with some good clutches while out. There is a couple members on here who build them to hold 1000hp plus gas engines without issues. Check out http://www.hubermarine.com/performance.html for options. Another member is currently installing two behind 500hp units right now. Maybe he will reply with any mods he did to them. The only other good choices out there to handle the power with gearing you want are ZF and Twin Disk. Both make good stuff. I'm working on custom trans builds right now, and it's a pain...
On the exhaust and intake, colder air means less work for the charge cooler. But if you have a large engine room, just wrap all the exhaust good and you'll be fine. Plan on exhaust temps in the 1300F range at wide open. I've toured a few mega yacht engine rooms, they typically have water cooled manifolds and turbos, then wrapped dry stacks.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]558924[/ATTACH]
Since your not looking to exceed 500hp, I'd stick with the Velvet drive. Maybe freshen it up with some good clutches while out. There is a couple members on here who build them to hold 1000hp plus gas engines without issues. Check out http://www.hubermarine.com/performance.html for options. Another member is currently installing two behind 500hp units right now. Maybe he will reply with any mods he did to them. The only other good choices out there to handle the power with gearing you want are ZF and Twin Disk. Both make good stuff. I'm working on custom trans builds right now, and it's a pain...
On the exhaust and intake, colder air means less work for the charge cooler. But if you have a large engine room, just wrap all the exhaust good and you'll be fine. Plan on exhaust temps in the 1300F range at wide open. I've toured a few mega yacht engine rooms, they typically have water cooled manifolds and turbos, then wrapped dry stacks.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]558924[/ATTACH]
I think they machine the shaft to allow room for 11 disc's and add an oil pan for more capacity
10-16-2016, 02:24 PM
#110
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Kidd, on the subject of charge air coolers, I may have a guy here who can handle that but when I look at higher hp stock units like from cat or Cummins, there are some that exceed the desired hp levels but I wonder how the higher rpm duramax would factor in.
I'm working on heat exchangers now and will start charge air coolers next, then pull everything out and finish the engine bay, run the tunes on the stands and put them back in the boat.
I'm working on heat exchangers now and will start charge air coolers next, then pull everything out and finish the engine bay, run the tunes on the stands and put them back in the boat.
