Charge cooling gets it's own section... Since one of last pieces to choose, saving it for later.

I was down there checking out the 700hp Cummins that Innovation builds last month. Didn't take any pictures, but their big C rods are very similar to those. That big end is a better design than GM's IMO. Ford uses it, as does the new Ecodiesel V6. It takes some load off the bolts. Innovation was using a Monotherm piston also, with great success I'll add..

Oiling System
 

Next topic short and sweet, oiling system components.

Oil cooling and filter locations are pretty straight forward to anyone who's owned a performance boat. If converting from a BBC application, the cooler you have may fit this build. I don't care for the Merc plate style cooler in bellhousing due to design and size. Since managing oil temps is probably the most important part of our conversion, it needs to be done right the first time. A screw up here will come back to bite you guaranteed. As I can attest to personally.

Since we scrapped our factory oil cooler and filter, lets put some good parts back in place. Starting with our PPE marine block adapter, note the 3/4" -12AN fittings and temp sensor port. No Duramax powered truck to date has came from the factory with an oil temp senor.
:confused:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553881[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553882[/ATTACH]


My setup used the Hardin 620-650 unit below. I never saw oil temps hit 200f, was typically in the 160-185f range. Some guys will say that's too cold to evaporate any moisture from the oil. However that sensor location reads oil returning to the block, so oil temp was never a problem for me ether way. Just buy a good cooler if yours BBC unit is much small than these. That small chamber on the cooler was designed for power steering, I used it for cooling fuel returning to the tank.

When checking the part# of my cooler from Hardin Marine I noticed this statement in bold letters on every performance model. I agree 100%
Note: Never use smaller than a 3/4" NPT oil connection on engine coolers.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553883[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553884[/ATTACH]

For remote oil filter setup, my build used the HP6 filter head. Never an issue, but I think the HP4 style would do just fine also. More likely to have a filter in stock if in a bind at some 3rd world parts store.. Both head units will accept those -12AN 3/4" fittings.

HP6 Billet Remote Oil Filter Mount - Left & Right Ports For HP6 Filters
[ATTACH=CONFIG]553868[/ATTACH]

Hamburg Racing remote filter head.
-Ideal For Race, Diesel and Marine applications.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]553871[/ATTACH]

I always ran the HP6 series Wix 51222R racing filters with a built in bypass. A local race shop kept them in stock.

---

Last point here I want to stress is the lines and fittings. My boat came with braided hydraulic lines that were made up with Parker "field attachable" two piece screw together ends. Stab fittings they are called in the industry. Never leaked once, just caused two spun rod bearings, trashed my crank and probably helped out with the burnt pistons...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553877[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553878[/ATTACH]

That quarter size piece of rubber came from inside the oil filter return line, and was found in the main oil passage of the block by #1 main bearing passage after the "3rd" tear down. Took a year of work to find that little sucker.. I should have caught it first time when she carried 50psi oil pressure with two rod bearings missing. What's worse, two different machine shops missed it cleaning the block between rebuilds... I call that my $10k souvenir, and have never lost track of where it's kept... LOL.

Long story short, don't use stab fittings, they are prone to pealing the hose apart inside on assembly. I switched to crimped hydraulic -12AN ends when I made up new lines after finding that issue. Earls fittings are fine, and I think Parker even discourages using those stab fittings now. My advice, Just pay someone to make up good lines, then run a scope down them before assembly to insure they are clean and free of potential problems. You can thank me later.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553879[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553880[/ATTACH]

Fuel System
 

Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire!

How about 30,000psi of coal roll'n smoke all over your buddies 500+ cubic inch blown big block. That's what this little 403ci monster does best. Probably the coolest words you'll ever hear on a boat are, "That Ain't No F-ing Diesel..." Followed by "O-chit, It Is A Diesel" when you open the hatch.
:cool-smiley-011:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553894[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553896[/ATTACH]

Unlike old school oil burners, these common rail diesels only smoke if you want them too. They are so clean up high that most people can't get past it, even after they hear the turbo screaming by them. Reason is, they operate between 4k idle to 30k wide open psi of atomizing fuel pressure, firing multiple pulses per stroke. Which also makes them quiet. You will never get yelled at for loud exhaust, which I do kinda miss.

Everything depends on this grapefruit size 2 piston CP3 pump from our friends at Bosch. Good for 700 flywheel horses out of the box. A modified stoker versions will get ya closer to 800hp. EVERY modern light to medium duty diesel produced today uses that same style pump. It's just so dang good that no one can build something better. Not even Bosch it seems..

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553895[/ATTACH]

Leaving just one question, how many do you want?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553901[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553902[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553904[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553898[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]553897[/ATTACH]

For one member here, that magic number looks to be 3.. :drink:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553903[/ATTACH]

I forgot to go over the oil pan options before getting into the fuel system. So taking a step back for a minute.

The factory pan is two piece setup with a built in windage tray design. Likely this will work fine in most situations. I've yet to hear any issues with these in a boat, no matter how much wave jumping you do. The medium duty oil pan has a bit larger volume. I couldn't find a pic of one right off. All the Duramax models have a low oil level sensor in them. After some testing, I have serious reservations if the ECM will even report a low oil level... But you could easily wire that sensor to a light or audiable alarm and be safe.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554119[/ATTACH]

Below is the stock light duty upper, and comparison of stock steel lower and the aftermarket aluminum "Banana Pan." No matter which one you chose, be sure to install a drain hose or tube so you can pump it out in the boat. I forgot to add one when I had the engine out first time, and it was a real pain to install in the boat. Pumping it out the dipstick is not an option either...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554111[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554114[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554117[/ATTACH]

For those looking to do some serious power and heavy offshore running, dry sump pans are available. Here is an example of a custom built unit, along with cast models. First cast model was by Curtis Halvorson from Extreme Engine Development. Last two pics are the PPE version release a couple years ago.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554112[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554113[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554115[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554116[/ATTACH]

Last is a pic I took of a HP4 filter head my friend was installing in a hot rod build this week. I liked the connection options and felt was worth posting here.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554120[/ATTACH]

Back to the fuel system now.

Awesome thread! Thanks for taking the time to post all of this information. Having a 2011 LML I can attest to how bulletproof they are in mild upgraded form. I have the Black Maxx programmer running on HOT setting (150HP) everything deleted and now have 170K on the clock almost always on that setting (just watch the egts)
I would love to put one (or two) in a boat someday and this thread has me thinking hard about it!!

CP3 is the bomb. I've spun a lot of them.

Where the CP4.x could be A bomb... Believe they have it resolved after several revisions. My GM buddy would send me pics of early models he found grenaded. While others like CF above obviously had no problems with them even cranked up.

The good old CP3 is one well designed piece. Only mistake GM made was using a mechanical lift pump were everyone else use an in tank electric.

Does the dodge with the CP3 use electric?

According to everything I've read Dodge uses both an in-tank and gearotor pump from the factory.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...mp-system.html
GEAROTOR PUMP

DESCRIPTION
The gearotor pump has two functions
- draws fuel from the fuel supply
- increases fuel pressure for regulation to housing pressure required for internal lubrication and supplying the high-pressure injection pump

OPERATION
This fuel system uses a gearotor supply-pump attached to the rear of the high-pressure pump. This medium-pressure fuel pump is driven by the end of the high-pressure pump shaft, and can generate 20" vacuum at the fuel inlet at high rpm.
The gearotor pump is supplied fuel from the lift pump in the fuel tank through the fuel manager\filter.
--

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554361[/ATTACH]

The mechanical lift or "gearotor" pump is the aluminum piece attached by 4 torques head bolts above.

Dodge uses basically the same CP3 pump as the GM model, however GM didn't include an electric pusher pump to feed the gearotor pump. In my experience that gearotor can't handle much above 500hp fueling by itself. Even at slightly over stock power demands the ECM will "limp mode" if the fuel filter has some miles on it. The gear pump is constantly sucking fuel through the filter on GM's, as where everyone else prefers to push the fuel to the pump.

My 3.2L Mercedes does not have that gear pump on the CP3. It is totally supplied by an in-tank pusher pump. Being a German car, and one of the first models equipped with a CP3 makes me wonder why the change for US trucks.

Ultimately a combination of electric and mechanical is what all the high performance setups run. I added a 190gph lift pump in my boat pushing at 10-15psi and all fuel starvation issues were solved. Especially when running B100 fuel.

We regularly ran them to 300MPa in the lab!

I've heard they will do 300MPa at low output volumes. Have any flow charts you can share?

Highest I've ever seen used in a LMM tune was like 200MPa at 125mm3. EFI max pressure limit value is 250MPa. Typically what I've found with large pulsewidth tunes or 40-60% oversized injectors is the stock gearotor pump can't keep up with commanded pressure at high RPM. Adding an electric lift pump seems to resolve that issue in most cases. Most common issue I see fuel filters plugged up when people drop a truck off to be tuned.

What's your experience with the 10mm or 12mm CP3 stroker pumps? I hear they are more reliable now than ones a few years back.

First of all thanks for posting this what an awesome write up! I also added a 95GPH FASS lift pump to my boat to feed my two Yanmars. Granted they are only 315hp each. Being old mechanical injection engines they benefitted greatly from the steady supply of 15 psi fuel. I picked up 2 mph top end and better acceleration all around.

Second I have a question I hope you can answer. I also have a turbo benz with torque limiting, while I understand you can control torque output through software settings what is physically happening in the engine to limit torque output? Is it boost being bled, fuel reduced??? I have never understood how this works.

We bought them to do development on single injectors for larger applications. Never modified them in any way. I don't know what the flow would have been.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554400[/ATTACH]

Requested torque tables control the commanded fuel, by using Nm calculations based on driving modes, 4x4 range and such. You have the requested torque tables above that says "x" Nm based on throttle % and RPM.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554401[/ATTACH]

The next table then provides total commanded fuel that the engine gets fed. A third table takes that mm3 info above and uses fuel pressure values to calculate how long to open the injectors. The RPM torque limit table overrides all those requests based on max values set there. No matter what the engine wants, the torque limit tables control the peak based simply on RPM.

There is a whole different set of tables that limit torque based on CANbus requests from transmission or stability control. When the Allison shifts, it will request the engine to torque limit between gears. Same goes with traction control. These are all network data requests,also used in diesel and gas cars like your MB.

I'm attempting to hack those torque limit messages right now actually. Goal is to use a button on the wheel, or a dive based sensor to torque limit the engine when the drives leave the water. IE: set the throttles at 80% and never touch them again no matter how far/long the boat leave the water. Like traction control for a boat.. :D

Like they say keep it simple. I guess I was overthinking it. Makes sense now that you explained to me. The boost is a result of the fuel wouldn't make sense to try to control it by bleeding off boost. I wish it was that easy to play with the fuel map on the MB, problem is I doubt the transmission can handle much more torque.

Changing gears to the Yanmar 6LP my "map" is screws, springs, pins, and diaphragms. Do you know if this software (or similar) will work on any common rail marine diesels? Cummins 550, FPT 570, Yanmar 8LV 370, the Mercruiser 370 (I think still a VW motor), Steyr.

EFIlive only works on GM and the late model 07+ Cummins. Shoot me a pic of the ECM I can probably tell ya. I haven't tuned my MB CDI because they want $750 for a tuner to do just one ECM.

For $100 off eBay you can trick the ECM to believing rail pressure is lower than actual. Thus the ECM adds more fuel pressure, and that increases the power output. I've considered trying one

Lift Pumps and Filters
 

Back to fuel supply

Below is a stock filter head showing the primmer button and a pressure sensor in the bleeder port. Normally that port will have a vacuum on it unless you run an electric lift pump. I'll stick a simple mechanical gauge in that same port to set the lift pump pressure to 10-15psi. While the stock filter unit works ok into the 700hp range, it's not the best choice for marine applications.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554407[/ATTACH]

First that primmer button on top tends to start leaking if you run a lift pump. Simple rebuild, just pain.. Second it has a fuel heater built in that you likely won't need. Third those GM filters are an uncommon design and fairly expensive. So someone came up with an adapter to take a standard 2 micron CAT filter. If using the standard head assembly, you'll be way ahead to upgrade to this CAT filter setup.

http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/a...0816-00837.jpg

For those looking to upgrade the filter or add a lift pump we have plenty of options based on power levels. For stock or slightly elevated power a 120gph lift pump will do the trick. I ran the adjustable pressure 160gph model [incorrectly listed as 190gph above] in the Warlock at 650hp. This rotary vane pump is built by SX performance. Pump is re branded under Edelbrock, PPE, and Jegs to name a few. Nice thing about these pumps, it's not very expensive, and because of the rotary design, if it fails the mechanical lift will still pull fuel through it to get you home. They are rebuildbable, while I put 4 years on mine with no issues.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554408[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554409[/ATTACH]

PPE and Edelbrock 160gph units sell for $260. Jegs units are $219.

Those pumps can be used with a stock, Racor, or CAT filter head assembly as pictured below. Unless going serious power levels or constant offshore running, that's my lift pump choice. Your just helping out the gearotor pump on the CP3. Just remember these 2 points, rated flow volume, and correct micron rating. Five micron tops, and two micron is what I would recommend if you can manage it.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554410[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554412[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554411[/ATTACH]

For those looking to make 800+hp, or with plans to seriously agitate the fuel tanks, the starting price doubles. Two leaders in "air removal" pump market are FASS and Airdog pumps. These units are designed to separate air bubbles from the fuel supply by returning part of the fuel back to the tank. Since the Duramax fuel system also returns fuel, you'll need a extra port in the tanks either way. Here is a good video I found that explains this air removal process. https://youtu.be/ujokaEkF8Z0

http://www.fassride.com/np_userfiles...7fc308c2de.png
FASS $500 - $800
Flow Rate
220gph @ 8-10psi

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554414[/ATTACH]
Airdog pumps $690 and up.

Last point is powering the pump. Because it's diesel, we can get away with running electric fuel pumps in the bilge without the Coast Guard freaking out on ya.. However to be safe I suggest running an oil pressure safety switch in the system. The Duramax has several extra ports in the block to add a pressure safety switch. The engine will fire up fine without the added fuel pressure. Wire the safety switch in with a momentary-on push button for priming the system, and replacing fuel filters is now a 3 minute job max.

That's about all I have on lift pumps and fuel filters. Positive I've missed some other good marine diesel options.

If you dry sump a gas engine you go from 8 quarts to 20. When dry sumping a diesel, do you go from 3 gallons to 8?

What trans?

In the MB? It's an '07 S65 whatever the stock trans is.

The boat has Bravo X drives, no trans needed.

You just set a 55 gallon drum in the bilge for a reservoir. Makes oil changes simpler.

I personally don't know anyone running a dry sump right off, but I'm guessing it only requires same volume as a gas engine.

After we decide on lift and CP3 pumps, the next thing is injectors and supply line upgrades.

Only a couple points to mention here. If sticking with a stock CP3 pump, there is a couple upgraded fittings you can do to get the most out of it.

High Flow CP3 1/2" Hose Barb Fitting

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554691[/ATTACH]

For those who prefer AN fittings and braided fuel line, they make these clean AN-8 inlet and AN-6 return line adapters.
CP3 Fuel Supply Fittings (AN-8)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554692[/ATTACH]

After those easy CP3 upgrades, we can increase volume into the fuel rails with this Ported Fuel Rail Fitting.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554693[/ATTACH]

For the DIY pro's, you can easily drill out your stock fitting and save the $35. I chose to replace mine, and then moved the main inlet fitting over to the secondary rail. Thus increasing the volume of both rails. As you can see in the pic below, the very small [stock orifice left] is all required to supply enough fuel to make 550+ crankshaft HP.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554696[/ATTACH]

The other "and most important" fitting to replace is also in the drivers side main fuel rail. At the back of the rail there is a pressure bypass valve that was designed to pop open and dump in over pressure situations. When you crank up the fuel pressure, that relief valve is known to pop open when you don't want it to. To resolve the problem, you can shim the stock valve or replace it with this $35 plug, PPE Race Fuel Valve.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554699[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554698[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]554697[/ATTACH]

Yeah the 5speed is pretty good. I'd bet you can get it built up. Some dodge guys are drag racing them.

I ran a proto pump to 380ish Mpa once testing a PRV that never popped lol.

The primary reason to shim or replace the rail mounted pressure release valve is that when it pops opens, the rail pressure drops far enough below requested to set a P0087 code. When that happens, the ECM instantly goes into "limp mode" and your forced to either turn off the engine for several minutes, clear the code somehow, or limp home at under 2000 rpm. Same thing happens with a fuel filter restriction.

Plenty of good articles out there on the Dmax forums about FPRV mod. Here is one example: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/3-p...alve-work.html

Another fuel rail piece worth identifying and possibly relocating if needed is the fuel pressure sensor.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554702[/ATTACH]

GM has moved this sensor several times over the years. On the LB7 it was tucked in the valley behind the pump, the LLY version had it in the middle of passenger side rail, and LMM it was moved to the end of the rail. Here is a good link explaining these locations. http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/...ad.php?t=25040

On my LLY conversion I found the center of fuel rail location conflicted with the crankcase vent tube upgrade kit I installed. On that engine model you can easily move the sensor to end of rail where there is a plug by default. Main thing is to be certain you know where the sensor is located on which ever model you start with.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]554703[/ATTACH]

Injectors. Stick size does matter...

When it comes to power and reliability of the Duramax in a marine setup, choice of injectors plays a huge role. The injectors control how much fuel goes into the cylinder, along with how quickly it gets sprayed in there.

You may have noticed the new diesels keep getting quieter and quieter, this is due to whats known as pilot injection. I like to think of it like MSD ignition for diesels. Rather than the injector shooting one large shot of fuel into the cylinder, they now fire multiple shots per stoke, like the MSD fires on a gas engine. The first few shots are called pilots, and meant start a fire burning smoothly as the piston approaches TDC. Then the primary injection shot hits with the majority of fuel. This pilot injection is what takes the knock out to the diesel..

To make more power in a diesel you add more fuel. Unlike a gas engine, we are not concerned with A/F ratio. You go to lean, you make less power. You go rich you make more power, heat, and typically black smoke. Maintaining Stoichiometric Combustion in a diesel is not a concern, but maintaining safe exhaust gas temperature [EGT] is. Another major difference from a gas engine is when the ignition cycle starts and ends. Modern common rail diesel injection cycles shoot the majority of fuel just a few degrees before top dead center. Then they continue spraying fuel after piston passes TDC. This is where EGT's come into the calculation.

You wanta turn up the power, you turn up the fuel pressure and or injector pulse width. But if you don't advance the timing, you also get more smoke and higher EGT's due to extra unburned fuel injected after the piston has passed TDC. So just turn up the timing along with pulse width right? Yes, the Duramax like her timing, till the point she smokes a hole through a piston... Remember that pilot injection? You've got a nice little flame started on top the pistons, then you shoot a huge shot of fuel to it earlier in the stroke, and that injector tip turns into a plazma cutter. The Duramax pistons and injectors were designed so that main shot of fuel only gets sprayed into the bowl area of the piston. Start spraying fuel to early and you start etching the pistons top or worse. For the details on all this I'll refer again to the Diesel Army article from our piston section.

For the short version, here is some pics of a common rail injector pulse, along with couple pics of what happens when you push the pulse width and timing a bit to far in search of more power... Just Google "Duramax Cracked Pistons" and click Images, you'll find plenty of examples, couple of them mine.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]555111[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]555112[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]555113[/ATTACH]

The correct way to increase the fuel volume and power is to increase the amount of fuel the injector can spray through the tip in the same amount of time. Known as injector flow rate, it's measured in mm3 or liters per minute {LPM]. While old style diesel injectors were measured in HP increase, new common rail injectors are measured in % over stock flow rate. I will cover these options next.

So now that I've again scared the bejesus out of ya, let me repeat, if your happy with 500hp or less, none of this stuff matters. Factory injectors will do fine as long as they are in good working order. They can supply enough fuel to power a stock engine well into the 650hp range, in a truck. In a boat, I like to keep that down in the low 500's top due to the pulse width concerns.

If you have any questions about your stock injectors condition, have them professionally tested. The guy who purchased my LLY powered boat actually owns a shop that specializes in nothing but common rail injectors. Call Andy at InjectorsDirect.com and he will clean and test your injectors, return you a full condition report, along with some added piece of mind. Because a leaking or misfiring injector can lead to piston damage also.

If they test ok and you wish to go above 500hp, then you can just change the tips / nozzles to increase the flow rate. That's how I did it. You can have your OEM nozzles extrude honed to a increase the hole size and final flow rate. Below is what they look like outside, and then under a microscope. Depending on the engine model, injectors will normally have 5 to 8 holes in the tip.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]555116[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]555114[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]555115[/ATTACH]

If you need to buy a complete set of new or reman injectors, then it's a good time to upgrade the nozzle size. With the ECM tuning options like EFIlive, it's about impossible to go too big on the size. For common power upgrades under 800hp a 30-60% over stock nozzle will do the trick. I read a story this week where someone was testing new 500% oversized injectors in a bone stock truck, and it ran great. While I don't suggest doing anything that outragous in the real world, the point is larger injectors allow you to lower the pulse width with tuning to where you get more fuel into that piston bowl without a huge increase in timing. Thus increasing power while maintaining the design parameters of the pistons and other internals as GM built it.

It should also be noted that GM changed the flow rate of the stock injectors with every model update. To calculate and compare flow rates across all models we use the same fuel pressure and pulse width values on each injector to get a correct comparison. These changes in GM's design also means the ECM injection pulse width used on the LB7 does not match up with a LMM or LML engine. Just something to keep in mine if your planning to get into the ECM tuning side of this. Here is a link that talks about the injector flow rate comparison. Basically stock flows rates breaks down like this.

From the link above, at 180mpa fuel pressure and 2800us pulse width stock injectors flow:

LB7 206.3 mm3
LLY 218.6 mm3
LBZ 182.0 mm3

Or in LPM

LB7 - 18lpm
LBZ - 19lpm
LMM - 17lpm

From Thoroughbred Diesel website on oversize LMM nozzles, this is the flow volumes by %.

+ 20% = 23 LPM
+ 40% = 27 LPM
+ 75% = 33 LPM
+100% =38 LPM

A 100% over injector can fuel upwards of 1200hp at the same pulse width or period of time that a stock injector would fuel 600hp. That's how you keep the fuel spraying in the piston bowl and run the engine at high RPM and power levels for extended periods of time without melting it down. Basically when in doubt, go a little bigger and turn it down in the tuning. The only other important thing you need to know about Duramax injectors,,the pointed end goes in the hole...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]555117[/ATTACH]

Subscribed

Excellent Topic!

Kid turbo this is fascinating! How does your % over stock injector sizing work in a mechanical injection engine like my Yanmar? Am I not limited mostly by the injection pump? So for example I send mine out and ask that they be setup to flow 50% more, and I change nothing else. Will I just be riding around with a cloud behind me or will the extra fuel generate extra exhaust to generate extra boost to supply enough additional air to compensate?

According to the service manual the pump can deliver a maximum of 111 cubic mm per stroke. If it says how much the injectors flow I am not seeing it.

Also I think that number may be half of what it is putting out because it says that amount of fuel is delivered under 700 mmhg of boost or around 13 psi, my engines make double that so I think these may be the pump specs for the Toyota engine the Yanmar is based on. Forgive my ramble don't mean to derail your thread.

No problem pstorti.

From all my reading, in mechanical pump injection they typcially rated injectors by HP gain over stock. This is because the mechanical pump pulse was pretty well set, while timing could be changed by moving or turning the pump. By installing a 20% oversized injector nozzle for example, would likely yield say 40hp at WOT cause there was no other changes to the pulse width or timing. With the new common rail design, nozzle flow rate is only one part of the equation so a 20% over injector might yield 40hp in one tune and 60hp in the next..

I'm by no means any sort of expert on mechanical injection. Have owned a few older diesels, but never modified one for extra power. But I bet if you do some searching for Yanmar oversized injectors you'll find where someone has listed the timing changes needed to match larger injectors.

-K

Very cool, I have lots of questions but I will wait till you are done posting, as I am sure you will answer them. I am subscribed.

Kid.....Ended up just under 32" wide, plan to install @ 36" centers.
Pretty much same footprint as BBC.

still have to machine out an aluminum block to weld to the underside of the plate that the power steering reseviour sits on for a 3" pulley to get the belt clearance at the center pulley.

Looking good !!

I saw a pic the other day with an idler in that bolt hole right behind the belt below factory AC location. It allowed better clearance with that PS pump setup. Will try to dig it up tonight.

36 " is exactly what I have to fit on the Baja build. :eureka:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]555673[/ATTACH]

Exhaust and Turbo Options
 

Since I've fallen behind, I'm merging exhaust and turbos sections since they ultimately flow together.

To date the manifold and up pipe options for Duramax marnization have been very limited. Factory manifolds and up pipes have proven to work fine in trucks making upwards of 7-900hp according to the Duramax racers. But for boats, performance isn't our main concern, it's heat and legality issues. According to a 2008 USCG Marine Safety Alert modifying powertrain with turbo charger applications had led to vessel losses and injures in reported incidents. Report cited failure to comply with correct 46 CFR 182.430 - engine exhaust pipe installation rules. Along with failure to properly submit documentation for plan review "Guidance for Repowering Vessels Inspected Under 46 CFR Subchapter T" which right off I don't know how that works with the personal DIY builds.. Maybe someone can update us on that rule.

While explosion is the main concern with marine gas engines, fires related to high surface temps are the concern with anything diesel or kero powered. As some recent turbine powered burn downs have proven, high surfaces temps and diesel fuel don't mix well. Diesel can flash off when in contact with anything above 450F, like piece of exhaust pipe. While I've read there is a USCG 200F engine surface temp limit, I couldn't find that rule to quote right off either. But here are the main ones I feel we should be most concerned with.

• 46 CFR 177.970 - Protection against hot piping.
  Piping, including valves, pipe fittings and flanges, conveying vapor, gas, or liquid, the temperature of which exceeds 65.5 °C (150 °F), must be suitably insulated where necessary to prevent injuries.
• 46 CFR 182.430 - Engine exhaust pipe installation.
  *Provide exhaust system insulation between the point of cooling water injection and the engine manifold.
  *An exhaust installation subject to pressures in excess of 105 kPa (15 psig) gauge or having exhaust pipes passing through living or working spaces must meet the material requirements of part 56 of subchapter F (Marine Engineering) of this chapter.
  *Provide the proper material to be used in the exhaust piping. It must be Schedule 80 steel or corrosion resistant.

The original Duramax marinizatoin boat came equipped with wrapped exhaust, up pipes and turbo, along with a water cooled T4 turbo pedestal. While I made a lot of changes like different manifolds and extra wrapping to cut engine bay temps, the overall design remained the same. Factory style exhaust from heads to the turbo, water cooled from turbo though the transom.

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That setup worked ok I guess, but the new owner had a slight issue after changing a fuel filter that he needed resolved with a fire extinguisher.... I'll spare ya the pics, but just say she flashed off some excess fuel when he left the dock and quick thinking saved the boat.

Choices for full USCG approved exhaust wraps range from custom fit covers like these PPE Fabric Heat Shield Blankets and Inconel Heat Shields, to build your own Marine Exhaust Insulation kits from heatshieldproducts.com. Those options will run ya between $1000 to $2500 a set.

Next up I'll cover the water jacked options like posted Hoodoo's custom manifolds and up pipes show above. But one piece you will most likely have to cover due to very limited marine choices is the turbo. Luckily there is plenty of affordable nice custom made thermal shields on the market to fit any turbo option.

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No option for water cooled turbos for these engines?

Water cooled turbos yes. The stock unit have a water cooled center section. Water cooled exhaust housings is limited to what's out there from existing marine engine manufactures.

Here is the only one I've seen setup with full water cooled housing. Is an LB7 engine, and I have no idea who's it is or who built it. Nice headers though...

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No source that I know of, Innovation uses a cover like your pic's and their parts guy says he has no supplier.
The background in that pic looks like their parking lot though.