Offshoreonly.com

Offshoreonly.com (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/)
-   Do It Yourself, Boating on a Budget (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/do-yourself-boating-budget-249/)
-   -   DIY - Duramax Marinisation (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/do-yourself-boating-budget/335665-diy-duramax-marinisation.html)

kidturbo 11-04-2018 12:28 AM

First engine ready to start runs.


kidturbo 11-04-2018 12:36 AM

The outside, LOUD view of the twin turbo setup spinning 3200r fully loaded. Video doesn't do it justice.


Wobble 11-05-2018 09:21 AM

That is some beautiful work there. I really hope everything works out the way you want it to. :drink:

When are the sea trials going to be?

kidturbo 11-07-2018 12:03 AM


Originally Posted by Wobble (Post 4657529)
When are the sea trials going to be?

I have an icebreaker on call for Christmas.. Gotta redo all 4 up-pipes now cause of the last minute turbo change.

Wobble 11-07-2018 08:15 AM

It is an awesome project, looking forward to the in water results.

Lillianave 01-07-2019 08:29 PM

I need help
 
i have a 6.6 max 4200 miles I have every thing I am looking for some one to marinizer it any help out there?

kel954 01-26-2019 03:40 PM

Beautiful. awesome setup.

14 apache 01-28-2019 03:04 PM

Nice job.

vee robb 03-18-2019 07:22 PM

Sweet project ��

kidturbo 03-20-2019 02:31 AM

Sorry for laps in details on the process. Been consumed with tying to blow smoke outa this hole... :cool-smiley-027:


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...32185b604c.jpg

BudMA 09-08-2019 10:51 PM

Glad to see this. Thanks for posting, and with so much detail. Have been looking for a reasonable diesel repower for my 1995 Formula 34pc. Think this might be the ticket.

BudMA 09-16-2019 07:32 PM

Just read on another forum that Ford Winsor marine exhaust manifolds will fit a Duramax block. Is this true or complete bullsh*t?

kidturbo 09-17-2019 07:46 AM

They are close, but not without an adapter flange. The 392 Hemi is closer fit I believe. The Nixson manifolds in some of Banks marine testing videos were 392 I'm told. I've personally never held either gasket up to a Dmax head, but thats where to start..

Todd Manning 12-04-2019 09:19 PM

Any updates
 
Kidturbo,

Been following for a while, do you have any updates or news to share with us?

kidturbo 12-08-2019 10:40 PM


Originally Posted by Todd Manning (Post 4717281)
Kidturbo,

Been following for a while, do you have any updates or news to share with us?

Have bunch of stuff I really need to add, but for now now, check out this other thread. Last few few pages are relative to where I left off here. Soon as that boats on the water. I'll jump back over here and pick up filling in the fine details again.

-K

Todd Manning 12-15-2019 01:34 AM

Kidturbo,

When you were running the T1000 without any turbos on one of the initial startups, the sound of the engine sounded as if the engine had a special grind or different type of cam profile. The idle was choppy like you would expect from a BBC with aftermarket cam profile. Did you change the cam to some sort of different from stock grind? I was just wondering unless running the engine without a turbo makes it sound like that?

Todd

kidturbo 12-15-2019 02:07 PM

Those engines have stage 1 AF cams, with a little more lift and duration than stock. Think it's a combination of different firing order and no turbos that makes em sound like a gasser. Plus they are a 16:1 CR engine. But now with turbos on, they sound quiet again.

CaptainBuster 08-04-2021 11:50 AM

Engine Failure
 

Originally Posted by kidturbo (Post 4426819)
Charge cooling gets it's own section... Since one of last pieces to choose, saving it for later.

After cooler had pin leak caused turbo sensor to fail with water in it and said air leak on code and shut down to 1650 RPM continued to run until the sensor shut me down to limp mode about 1000 RPM could not reset codes had to replace a sensor to make the engine go faster than 1000 RPM Repaired after cooler still have a lot of steam at higher RPMs before and after after cooler repair they said the exhaust manifold temperature runs higher on the Duramax causing the extra steam but even the Coast Guard calls me and says I have a problem with all that steam Had vibration ran the engine at 1650 RPM and then it totally hatched and had to be towed in. Oil pressure had been down to five or six psi at times the boat troll for salmon and rockfish spends a lot of time at idle which is about 700 RPM transmission has a trolling valve Generally run the 37 foot Delta at 3100 RPM about 13 knots Engine temperature gauge is normally 154 and never gets hotter than 162.
to reset any of the codes to get out of limp mode they tell me I have to start the engine five times before it removes a code and allows me above 1650 RPM

kidturbo 08-06-2021 09:01 PM

A bunch of steam isn't a good thing I know. What manifolds, and did you pressure test them? I know some water cooled pipes outa AU had pretty high rate of cracking after first year. One customer went back to wrapped manifolds due to that issue. Was getting little or no water out of exhaust while boosted cause pressure was leaking back into the cooling system and over powering the waterpump at speed.

On the limp mode issue, I write everything out of the tune that isn't directly fuel pressure or temperature related. Have ran into same problems with sensor failures before. Now unless it's seriously overheating or starving for fuel, I deal with it at the dock.

The last issue does concern me since the any leak on the intake side could lead to a hydro lock issue and bent rods. It's been my findings, and every other performance marine diesel manufacture to make sure the charge cooler can not drain into the engine. Even in best setups, a good cooler will condensate about a half red solo cup worth of water upon a hot shut down. If the cooler is mounted above the engine, unless it has drain tube, that water goes straight down the pipe into the cylinders. Saw it on the very first Duramax boat, etched the cylinder walls from water laying on top the pistons. Moved the cooler down low and solved it. Even if they spring a leak mounted down low, that water can't hydro lock the engine while it's running. Or at least it would take a really big leak.

So that said, I'd do a compression check and make sure something mechanically didn't happen related to your leak.

CaptainBuster 08-11-2021 07:56 PM

Crank Broke in half.
 

Originally Posted by CaptainBuster (Post 4800268)
After cooler had pin leak caused turbo sensor to fail with water in it and said air leak on code and shut down to 1650 RPM continued to run until the sensor shut me down to limp mode about 1000 RPM could not reset codes had to replace a sensor to make the engine go faster than 1000 RPM Repaired after cooler still have a lot of steam at higher RPMs before and after after cooler repair they said the exhaust manifold temperature runs higher on the Duramax causing the extra steam but even the Coast Guard calls me and says I have a problem with all that steam Had vibration ran the engine at 1650 RPM and then it totally hatched and had to be towed in. Oil pressure had been down to five or six psi at times the boat troll for salmon and rockfish spends a lot of time at idle which is about 700 RPM transmission has a trolling valve Generally run the 37 foot Delta at 3100 RPM about 13 knots Engine temperature gauge is normally 154 and never gets hotter than 162.
to reset any of the codes to get out of limp mode they tell me I have to start the engine five times before it removes a code and allows me above 1650 RPM

more info and pictures of broken crank when I get them.

kidturbo 08-15-2021 12:15 AM

Wow I should have caught that with the vibration you reported at 1650Rpm. However it's a rare occurrence, and guess your previous leak issue threw me off. Only the second one I've heard of in a boat. But certainly not unheard of in the truck world. There is no rhyme or reason, power level doesn't matter, and until the L5P release, it could happen to any of them. Depending on where it broke, you might get lucky and block wasn't damaged. Then just drop in another used one and continue on. If block main journal was damaged, start shopping for a complete engine.

There is a decent / better "stock" replacement crank from Callies for about $1500. Their UltraBillet units I run require the rod big end to be thinned down, and cost about 5k. But to date, that's the only aftermarket unit which has never failed.

Eider 02-14-2022 12:41 AM

I've been slowly working on a conversion that will hopefully cost as little as possible. I bought a wrecked truck with an LMM and sold the transmission and TCM to cover the purchase price. I hate the idea of spending thousands on exhaust manifolds so I went to our local commercial fishing supply store and bought the only materials they had for insulating dry stacks in commercial vessels. I welded the up pipe and wrapped it and the manifold with ceramic wool and "dip lag" a fiberglass mat that hardens after its wetted. I'll sew a silicone coated fiberglass woven mat to cover this so oil and fuel won't have the chance to soak in. So far I'm 30 Dollars into this project.

Anyone have "redbeard's" contact info? I like the idea of a charge cooler that uses the hull for charge air cooling since we both have aluminum boats in cool Alaska.

I tried to post photos but I'm not allowed to until I reach ten posts.

ksalmine 02-14-2022 01:22 PM

I run hot headers in my Baja 29 Outlaw many years without any problems. 12mm copper tube, 4 pipes/header, thick aluminium folio wrap, then self made basalt cloth hood sew by kevlar yarn. I used 4 channel EGT gauge, one sensor for each header, there was 700C EGT and you can keep hand on headers. Engine room was in normal temperature also.
This design have no risk to get water in engine, they can leak only to bilge.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...86352d290b.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8591e0c456.jpg

ksalmine 02-14-2022 01:27 PM

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...80285bde41.jpg
Hoods of picture. Aluminium folio prevent any oil get on hot header and conducts heat to copper tubes.

Ironhorse dave 02-14-2022 02:39 PM

Maybe,when I was 16 and didnt have any money.wonder what coast guard would have to say?

sutphen 30 02-14-2022 07:17 PM


Originally Posted by Ironhorse dave (Post 4821506)
Maybe,when I was 16 and didnt have any money.wonder what coast guard would have to say?

coast guard would say,,whens the jiffy pop gonna be ready.:D

Eider 02-15-2022 12:56 AM


Originally Posted by ksalmine (Post 4821498)
Hoods of picture. Aluminium folio prevent any oil get on hot header and conducts heat to copper tubes.


I love this! I toyed with the idea of wrapping tubs to carry away heat but never got as far as you did. The 18 year old coasties who board you seem to hardly know a thing, as long as surface temps are down you meet the regs.

Did you find other ways to save in your conversion? I'm currently wringing my hands over spending money on the oil cooler delete kit. I'd like to just use the relocation kit and route the oil return through an external cooler and save 300 bucks. How else did you save? I'm using the duramax in order to save money and weight over a cast iron conventional marine diesel so I'm always looking for these sorts of ideas.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:54 AM.


Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.