cmi header install
 

I have a set of cmi fusion headers installed I am having Clarence issues with the water distribution tube and the back of my alternator I am running factory power steering / alternator low mount bracket any
suggestions would be great cmi told me to tweak the water inlet tube I did slightly but don't want to any further. and I am also running rubber distribution tubes

Get a different PS/Alt bracket is about the only other solution.

i looked at new brackets on cp performance , and Teague but they were both closed yesterday to call and ask questions so i wasn't sure witch one to order they both sell one that is the power steering alternator combo and it say it makes room for power flow manifolds, the Teague is a imco part and cp im sure is a hardin marine part

have any pics?

post pics tomorrow night just covered the boat for the night.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]557846[/ATTACH]

I don't even know how stock manifolds could have worked with where the alternator is.

I had CMI Unitops on my Pantera and have E Tops on my AT and neither were/are even close to that tight. Both used the factory merc PS/Alt bracket.

Didn't you have lightnings on that same motor without issues?

running stock merc bracket and yes had lighting headers on before no issues with the lightings

Wow, that's a problem. My hose was snugg but not that snugg. I found that the brass 90* fittings for the pex tubing that can be found at any Home Depot worked for me. I had to splice in 90* fittings to get my tubes to clear.

im about tapped out on cash on this project... im thinking about shimming the p/s/alt bracket out a lil bit then header wrapping the water inlet tube if this is a bad idea im open to suggestions thanks Jacob

Can you flip the line 180 degrees? Then add to your water line?

You can't shim the bracket because it will change the belt alignment. But the idea to put some angle fittings at the ends of the tubes makes sense. I'd see if you can get some angle shaped hose and put a barb between it and the provided hose. Back a few years there were books with the different shapes and diameters. We'd use them to make up repair parts for auto and truck heater/cooling hoses. Plus it's easy and relatively low cost. Compared to replacing or moving your brackets or your alternator.
I just typed in 5/8" hose bend and 3/4" hose bend in ebay and got lots of hits.

Can you re-stack the brackets so the power steering uses the back groove and moves the alternator forward a groove?

I had similar problems when I installed cmi etops on my old carb'd mag motors. The hose didn't clear my mando alternator. I tried using the hoses from cmi's old split top headers, I believe they called them octopuses. It was close but not enough. Ended up using the feed tubes that came with the headers, and re drilled my alternator bracket to "clock" it lower. I also extended the adjustment slot on the bracket to allow the alternator to swing closer to the block. I did have to hit the block with a grinder to remove a small bit of casting flashing to give a slight bit of clearance r

Sorry hit wrong button. Any way just to allow a slight bit of clearance for the alternator housing. I might have even removed a small amount of the alternator casting with the grinder. You would have to run a shorter belt. Good luck.