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-   -   How to run a wideband? (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/do-yourself-boating-budget/342723-how-run-wideband.html)

Trash 12-09-2016 12:34 AM


Originally Posted by Baja Rooster (Post 4508066)

That's the one I use. Mostly for insurance so to speak but it helps with water AND too much temp which can kill the sensors too.

Keith Atlanta 12-09-2016 08:45 AM


Originally Posted by Trash (Post 4508070)
That's the one I use. Mostly for insurance so to speak but it helps with water AND too much temp which can kill the sensors too.

Doesnt effect accuracy?

turbom700 12-09-2016 10:13 AM


Originally Posted by GrannySShifting (Post 4507931)
If its turbod thats even worse. The more backpressure it has the exponentially worse the problem would be compounded. What turbo exactly (turbine wheel etc) must be tiny turbines in T3 so I know backpressure has to be an issue. That silent choice setup closed at idle cant be helping much either for reversion with that back turn, and the manifold looks like it has hardly any runner length at all so thats killing all the tuning the long runner factory manifolds have designed in them which will cost every bit of 50 ft lbs of tq OUT of boost. Compounded in boost. And with that late intake valve closing point, the manifold would want to have that thing at 8500+ rpm.

Im sure you would be MUCH better off with a TBSS intake manifold, right cam, plumb discharge pipes into a A/W intercooler like the marine procharger kits use (like a racecar air/water) then into the TB. Tons better low midrange tq, less heat soak from manifold (your not only cooling off charge air with that setup your trying to cool engine block heat soak

The engine doesnt know its in a boat. All it knows is backpressure, manifold wave tuning and valvetrain dynamics and that setup doesnt look like it would make it very happy. Wait is your wideband between exh valve and turbine or after turbine?

Not disagreeing with you at all but wouldn't more backpressure help the water not revert back up the pipe? Kind of act like a damper so to speek? Also I would have thought turbos would have help as well, but clearly I'm wrong on this part.

As far as the TBSS intake and mine heat soaking I'm not seeing any of that, maybe I'm passing enough water at idle for that not to happen, but I data log both Ampient and intake air temps and at idle I'm usually seeing intake temps about 5 degrees above lake temps(mid 70's) and when on boost I'm seeing no more then 10 degrees. I haven't seeing what intake temps are before the cooler only after. To me this seem pretty dang good. I actually ran the boat this fall when lake water temps were 40 degree. At 5700 rpm and 7.6psi of boost I was seeing 44 degree intake temps I don't see any car/truck getting those kind of intake temps on a turbo vehicle.

If I can get a cam that wont revert water I can change my after turbo exhaust to get rid of that sharp swept back that's why I'm all ears if you can recommended a better cam.

Have any recommendation on cam?????

We can take this to PM if you would like so we aren't mucking this thread up.

Mike

Trash 12-09-2016 10:22 AM


Originally Posted by Keith Atlanta (Post 4508119)
Doesnt effect accuracy?

No. I've done back to back testing on the same motor and tune. Identical readings.

Trash 12-09-2016 10:24 AM


Originally Posted by turbom700 (Post 4508150)
Not disagreeing with you at all but wouldn't more backpressure help the water not revert back up the pipe? Kind of act like a damper so to speek? Also I would have thought turbos would have help as well, but clearly I'm wrong on this part.

As far as the TBSS intake and mine heat soaking I'm not seeing any of that, maybe I'm passing enough water at idle for that not to happen, but I data log both Ampient and intake air temps and at idle I'm usually seeing intake temps about 5 degrees above lake temps(mid 70's) and when on boost I'm seeing no more then 10 degrees. I haven't seeing what intake temps are before the cooler only after. To me this seem pretty dang good. I actually ran the boat this fall when lake water temps were 40 degree. At 5700 rpm and 7.6psi of boost I was seeing 44 degree intake temps I don't see any car/truck getting those kind of intake temps on a turbo vehicle.

If I can get a cam that wont revert water I can change my after turbo exhaust to get rid of that sharp swept back that's why I'm all ears if you can recommended a better cam.

Have any recommendation on cam?????

We can take this to PM if you would like so we aren't mucking this thread up.

Mike

I couldn't tell from the pictures but where exactly are your O2 sensors located?

turbom700 12-09-2016 11:10 AM

They are in the adapter block between the turbo and manifold,
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...psx1qykb5s.jpg

underpsi68 12-09-2016 11:38 AM


Originally Posted by turbom700 (Post 4508176)
They are in the adapter block between the turbo and manifold,
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...psx1qykb5s.jpg

IMO you should move the sensor to the dp.

turbom700 12-09-2016 11:51 AM

Normal I would but I was worried about revision and taking out the sensor, Its a NTK sensor which are (OK) to run before the turbo.

I'm really hoping to fix the revision issue with a cam change and mount the sensors after the turbo at the 12 o'clock position. (fingers crossed)

Trash 12-10-2016 12:22 PM

Are you sure reversion is killing your sensor? Does the turbine exhibit signs of water contact?

turbom700 12-12-2016 08:08 AM

yes, I can actually take the 02 sensor out and see a fine mist coming out of the hole for it. Its that bad, I have changed timing and put a duck bill on the exhaust to help with it and it help a ton but I'm still getting a fine amount of revision.


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