How to run a wideband?
#21
#22
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#23
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If its turbod thats even worse. The more backpressure it has the exponentially worse the problem would be compounded. What turbo exactly (turbine wheel etc) must be tiny turbines in T3 so I know backpressure has to be an issue. That silent choice setup closed at idle cant be helping much either for reversion with that back turn, and the manifold looks like it has hardly any runner length at all so thats killing all the tuning the long runner factory manifolds have designed in them which will cost every bit of 50 ft lbs of tq OUT of boost. Compounded in boost. And with that late intake valve closing point, the manifold would want to have that thing at 8500+ rpm.
Im sure you would be MUCH better off with a TBSS intake manifold, right cam, plumb discharge pipes into a A/W intercooler like the marine procharger kits use (like a racecar air/water) then into the TB. Tons better low midrange tq, less heat soak from manifold (your not only cooling off charge air with that setup your trying to cool engine block heat soak
The engine doesnt know its in a boat. All it knows is backpressure, manifold wave tuning and valvetrain dynamics and that setup doesnt look like it would make it very happy. Wait is your wideband between exh valve and turbine or after turbine?
Im sure you would be MUCH better off with a TBSS intake manifold, right cam, plumb discharge pipes into a A/W intercooler like the marine procharger kits use (like a racecar air/water) then into the TB. Tons better low midrange tq, less heat soak from manifold (your not only cooling off charge air with that setup your trying to cool engine block heat soak
The engine doesnt know its in a boat. All it knows is backpressure, manifold wave tuning and valvetrain dynamics and that setup doesnt look like it would make it very happy. Wait is your wideband between exh valve and turbine or after turbine?
As far as the TBSS intake and mine heat soaking I'm not seeing any of that, maybe I'm passing enough water at idle for that not to happen, but I data log both Ampient and intake air temps and at idle I'm usually seeing intake temps about 5 degrees above lake temps(mid 70's) and when on boost I'm seeing no more then 10 degrees. I haven't seeing what intake temps are before the cooler only after. To me this seem pretty dang good. I actually ran the boat this fall when lake water temps were 40 degree. At 5700 rpm and 7.6psi of boost I was seeing 44 degree intake temps I don't see any car/truck getting those kind of intake temps on a turbo vehicle.
If I can get a cam that wont revert water I can change my after turbo exhaust to get rid of that sharp swept back that's why I'm all ears if you can recommended a better cam.
Have any recommendation on cam?????
We can take this to PM if you would like so we aren't mucking this thread up.
Mike
#25
Not disagreeing with you at all but wouldn't more backpressure help the water not revert back up the pipe? Kind of act like a damper so to speek? Also I would have thought turbos would have help as well, but clearly I'm wrong on this part.
As far as the TBSS intake and mine heat soaking I'm not seeing any of that, maybe I'm passing enough water at idle for that not to happen, but I data log both Ampient and intake air temps and at idle I'm usually seeing intake temps about 5 degrees above lake temps(mid 70's) and when on boost I'm seeing no more then 10 degrees. I haven't seeing what intake temps are before the cooler only after. To me this seem pretty dang good. I actually ran the boat this fall when lake water temps were 40 degree. At 5700 rpm and 7.6psi of boost I was seeing 44 degree intake temps I don't see any car/truck getting those kind of intake temps on a turbo vehicle.
If I can get a cam that wont revert water I can change my after turbo exhaust to get rid of that sharp swept back that's why I'm all ears if you can recommended a better cam.
Have any recommendation on cam?????
We can take this to PM if you would like so we aren't mucking this thread up.
Mike
As far as the TBSS intake and mine heat soaking I'm not seeing any of that, maybe I'm passing enough water at idle for that not to happen, but I data log both Ampient and intake air temps and at idle I'm usually seeing intake temps about 5 degrees above lake temps(mid 70's) and when on boost I'm seeing no more then 10 degrees. I haven't seeing what intake temps are before the cooler only after. To me this seem pretty dang good. I actually ran the boat this fall when lake water temps were 40 degree. At 5700 rpm and 7.6psi of boost I was seeing 44 degree intake temps I don't see any car/truck getting those kind of intake temps on a turbo vehicle.
If I can get a cam that wont revert water I can change my after turbo exhaust to get rid of that sharp swept back that's why I'm all ears if you can recommended a better cam.
Have any recommendation on cam?????
We can take this to PM if you would like so we aren't mucking this thread up.
Mike
#27
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#28
Registered
Normal I would but I was worried about revision and taking out the sensor, Its a NTK sensor which are (OK) to run before the turbo.
I'm really hoping to fix the revision issue with a cam change and mount the sensors after the turbo at the 12 o'clock position. (fingers crossed)
I'm really hoping to fix the revision issue with a cam change and mount the sensors after the turbo at the 12 o'clock position. (fingers crossed)
#30
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yes, I can actually take the 02 sensor out and see a fine mist coming out of the hole for it. Its that bad, I have changed timing and put a duck bill on the exhaust to help with it and it help a ton but I'm still getting a fine amount of revision.