I can't get the anodes off my K-planes. I got the nut off each anode but the anodes will not come off. Are they screwed on? Corrosion keeping them on? Any ideas would be appreciated. I tried to gently pry them off after pouring some muratic acid on them with no luck. I am trying to replace them (Formula Fastech).

Thanks

Only the nut holding them. Try to tap on them they are most likely stuck due to corrosion.

Thanks, I tried again yesterday using a hammer and chisel (screwdriver) tapping them counterclockwise with no luck. I will try again tomorrow.

I got the first one off today. I used a large syringe filled with muratic acid and applied it where the bolt comes through the anode hole, let it set, chisel, repeat. Now for the other three. I did find it odd that my K-Planes are painted under the anode (where the anode seats)? I am the second owner and do not know if this is factory or a previous owner had the K-Planes painted aftermarket?

I think the the connection for the anode is through the treads

Was going to say the same thing but just wasn't 100% certain but it would make sense to have paint/powder coat under anode otherwise it would start to lift in no time.

on 2 sets of k planes, i changed anodes, 50/50 they come off or break / have to be be broken and always paint underneath.
local marina has good selection of rudder anodes very close in size to original k planes and cost less by a lot.
never seen continuity wire on a k plane ever, but that doesn't mean much

I haven't either but i see that the k planes that Teague sells has the anodes attached to each other to keep electrolysis away from the hinge but i don't see why just 2 separate anodes one on the backing plate and one on the bottom plate should be enough just need to keep the corrosion out of the hinge seems like that way would work a little better but i haven't dealt with them enough to know if it does or not
"Electrically bonded components and larger sacrificial anodes enhance corrosion resistance.''

I replaced my anodes on my K-Planes quite a few years ago. I do remember them being somewhat hard to get off. I ended up getting magnesium rudder anodes at West Marine that were a very close match, but remember having to drill out the mounting hole in them. I wanted magnesium to replace the aluminum ones for better protection in fresh water. My boat is racked stored too, so the anodes last a very long time. I seem to remember seeing on other boats, a continuity wire connecting the anode on the K-plane mounting plate on the transom to the anode on the K-plane flap. Mine do not have a continuity wire but I am thinking of putting them on because it seems the anode on the transom plate of the K-plane is sacrificing (working) where the one on the flap is still looking like new. It might need the continuity wire to it to make a better contact.

There's tons of info. About anodes in this month's Boat US magazine all of which say metal to anode contact, no paint.