GLENAMY 242SS

iTrader: (1)

Where are you located?
Never mind, I was thinking Evergreen, AB, did not see Evergreen, MT

dereknkathy

See if the whole engine has all 16 pushrods. I think the length might be different. Since these heads are adjustable, you could probably get by though. In fact, take 1 each of your pushrods and compare to the Mk 4 ones. OK, MK 4 or MK IV is 1965 to 1990 or 91, sometimes 92. Gen 5. 92 or 93 to 95. Gen 6 96 to 2000.

dna

OK, need quick advice here.

I looked at my block and no damage - I removed the gasket and the iron is good. Needs to be cleaned real good but it is OK. Oh - when I took off the head some water got into the cylinders of the block against the pistons - I didn't dry them off with a rag. Went there today and the water is gone but have surface rust on walls and at piston edges. I wiped it with a rag and seems OK (only was a few days) but still have some rust on edge of pistons I can't reach - shoudl I shot some wd40 on them????

The guy with the whole engine will go $300 no stand. These are the 781 heads and entire engine. Keep it mind his ad says "Will need all new bearings, rings, pushrods, camshaft, intake, and a good clean, minor scratches in cylinder walls, possibly removed by a hone" - so it needs lots of work to be a spare engine

I got a hold of the other guy with the 049/781 heads, chrome covers, starter, fuel pump and power steering pump - he will go to $240.

Whichever one I get I will check for straightness and valve leaks. Though which one would you go for as the 1st choice?????? Thanks

GLENAMY 242SS

iTrader: (1)

1st choice? I'd be 1 hour drive away from that at this point. Rebuilding a set of tired heads is expensive, even if done on a budget.

dereknkathy

The whole engine. glen is right about the rebuilt set of heads, but 5 hours away is a hike. do the quickie leak test on both sets of heads. tap end of valve springs with a hammer. you should feel and hear valves open and close. just a little, but it'll tell you if they are stuck. practice on your head so you know the sound-feel, and look like you know what you are doing. but my gut feeling is that whole engine is a good low mileage steal. the one thing you don't want from it-the truck camshaft-is what made it get pulled.

SB

iTrader: (1)

My goodness.

dereknkathy

see if either guy has a valve spring compressor he well part with. the big C clamp style. the NAPA in Calgary can get one from Vancouver or Edmonton for about 100 bucks. or is there real gearhead on your lake you could maybe beg-borrow specialized tools from? the couple of ounces of water ran by the rings into the oil.

dna

Went to look at each. The whole engine deal ended up not being great. Using a .005 feeler there were various sections where the feeler slide through - also the valves leaked when doing the water test. Plus the face where the valves are were very gunky and worn. The engine was lacking the intake manifold, starter, and fuel pump. So would have gotten the block, pistons, rods, heads, valves and rockers. Oh, no rocker covers either. Oh, and the seller was a mech by trade - nothing personal to anyone here who is a professional mechanic but that alone made me question if I was really get a good deal, as I don't know too many mechanics that voluntarily give smoking deals to strangers. Being that the heads seemed questionable I went to see the other deal.

I bought the other deal, with 049 and 781 heads, valves, rockers, rocker arms, starter, fuel pump, power steering pump, chrome valve covers and chrome air cover. The heads were real nice. The .005 feeler did not go through anywhere. With the water test, one side was 100%. On the other side there was just the slightest drip every 1 minute from 3 of the valves - but this was way better than the flow coming from the whole engine deal, and still way better than my existing heads.

So a few questions:

1) I'm planning to do just one side and leave the other one alone for now. Any issue with this?

2) Should I use my original rockers and rockers arms, or the ones that came with this new head?

3) is the head gasket I bought compatible with this head??

4) I assume my intake manifold will work fine with this head too??

Thanks

dereknkathy

Intake manifold is fine. The rockers won't fit. Your bad head has bolt-down non-adjustable rockers. The head gasket I am not sure. Get a can of spray paint. Set head on block. Reach under and spray the underside of head where it mates to block. Take a pic. This is to check how much metal on block goes outboard of the edges of 2 cooling passages on head. Then get pic of head gasket on block and on head. Worst case you are going back to calgary for a 1037 gasket from Mopac.

dna

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By saying the rockers won't fit - which ones will not fit. My original rockers and arms or the new ones. In another words, should I use the rockers and arms that came with this newer head, or use my original rockers and arms - I think I need to use the new ones? If I use the new ones, any issue by having the other my side with the different head and rockers/arms<div style="text-align:center;">Sounds like I need to open the plastic packaging of gasket to see if it fits. Once I open it I will not be able to return. The 1 gasket was $20 - Mpac sells the other as a set for $75. Should I just return my gasket and get the set at Mopac? Any way to tell if my gasket will work without opening it up and doing this spray painting? Thanks