GrannySShifting

Can you expand on this?

GrannySShifting

I like the idea, have any pictures of how offset it is?

The strut would keep it from wobbling, but it would have to be a pretty low pressure Id think to not make it harder to close, etc. have dimensions/part number for what you used?

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

Didnt necessarily mean nightmare but more so the possibilities of the rams not going up and down the same.assuming you'd wire both rams to one switch. in a perfect world they would work perfectly without one operating a bit slower in due time and or having intermittent problems with one or the other. Even thought you can pull a pin I would just think they would be in the way and a head banger while wrenching. Not sure sure where your outer stringers are at but will they align ok with hatch without interference. If you did install two I'd glass in a 1 1/2" x 3" board or similar just to help strength and might help even out weight, hatch, etc. Is your hatch fully padded with the seat back attached? I'm just trying to think if there is a way to prevent your problem without having to go through the time and expense. I'm not familiar with the underside of hatch and what it gets pulled down to or not to. Not any other option to eliminate problem. Nice looking boat though....

i remember I had a boat with just your basic car hatch strut that worked fine but would just need to work the opposite like a screen door air ram. (Just refeering to the concept not actual)

GrannySShifting

Thanks, the old girl should be a looker when shes done.

I was thinking hydraulic, whereas they were connect they would self level like lift.. but that aint this LOL. I can see what you mean. The lift is on a middle stringer dead center, and the outboard ones are in good location to put lifts on either side. Really no way to have offset one of any kind, you have outside edges and center as only real mounting options. Its just the sunpad, no seats attached when raised. The current setup has a steel hinge bar at the back of the hatch (hatch is basically flat square with sunpad on it) two hinge points under swim platform, and two mounting points on underside of hatch 3 screws on each mount point. The fiberglass is cracked up real bad there, cant get screws out stripped etc, so Ive taken it off to refiberglass all that. Was thinking of putting a stainless 6" by 5 ft or whatever plate across it when fixed, so the mount points are distributed across the surface in more than 2 2' circles (pretty dumb design) Honestly with a fresh lift, sturdy base mount it may be perfectly fine no more weeble wobbles? I like the idea of a low pressure gas strut, maybe just add two very light ones on the outer edges for stability with the hatch open and pull pins to drop them out of the way when servicing.

Boatally Insane

iTrader: (1)

The are just about all the way to the outsides of the hatch.. I'll have to look up the part number I used.. got it at Autozone..
Found the part numbers I used... Hardware ML3000 Gas strut A95767

My hatch ram doesn't pull down, it's set up so I could lift the hatch by hand if the battery is dead. When I close it, I have to push down on the side with the gas strut to get it to close the last 2" on that side but no big deal.

GrannySShifting

Of course the pitures dont show haha

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

Hey I might have to eat my words and is what it is but ck out swap right now. How coincidental!!! Slick set up FS.

GrannySShifting

????

Boatally Insane

iTrader: (1)

Think He's referring to this..

Dana marine hatch lifts

92nsx

Hydraulic I would say no problem with twin rams. Electrical linear actuators, stick to 1.

There is a YouTube of those Dana Hatch lifts in action I saw a couple years back. Not sure what pump the guy used but they opened in like 4 seconds and closed in 2-3 seconds.