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Also, boost referenced power valves |
Textbook max power on gasoline is 12.5:1 . 10% ethanol is like 12.2 if i recall. Not sure why he would recommend 13. Blower motors like to be a bit richer, esp with a single carb on a 250 blower. Your afr is gonna be an average of 4 cylinders. If youre seeing 13.0, its likely gonna be much leaner on the front cylinders, like possibly 14:1 or higher. Even OEM fuel injected engines with sophisticated knock control dont run that lean at wot. Id be shooting for mid 11's on that setup, maybe even richer.
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Mid 11’s is what I will aim for. Planning on checking afr’s, and everything else on the garden hose, in the driveway, hoping for the middle of August. Still have a lot of parts to put on. |
What do you think about running the carbs sideways? I read a thread where someone had 500 hours on a similar set up , with the carbs sideways. Also said they ran the jet two size’s larger over the number 7 piston. |
Originally Posted by Scscoripion
(Post 4639855)
What do you think about running the carbs sideways? I read a thread where someone had 500 hours on a similar set up , with the carbs sideways. Also said they ran the jet two size’s larger over the number 7 piston. |
Ok,,, scratch that idea, how about 2” carb spacers? |
I was thinking carb spacers may help keep the intake air cooler, if that was dumb question, believe me, I will have more! LOL |
Still wondering about the NGK #7 spark plugs. That is what came in the enigne’s from the previous owner. They were very black, almost fuzzy with soot. very rich at some point, then he detonated the port enigne, rebuilt it, let it sit four years, and sold it to me. |
#7 is likely a good starting point once the tune is sorted out.....they are likely a fuzz cold depending on many things.
Lots of ways to skin a cat on you ignition. Figure out what features you want/need/might use in the future...what you have currently.....what you might be able to pick up used....set your budget....pick accordingly. Personally, I would do a megasquirt CNP igntion only set up before I spent the money (megasquirt option could be less depending on how resourceful you are) on the Daytona Ignition. But it does require more work, homework and set up then the Daytona at the benefit of further expansion capability and control. What might be right for me....might not be right for you. |
I run -9 plugs, no fouling issues
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Thanks again for the help, just looking at the MegaSquirt, that’s more complex than the Daytona for me. If I use the Daytona in two D mode, would it be effective, or do I really need the map-2 bar sensor, and the pc mapping that 3 D will require? I’ve read up on the Daytona, wondering if my computer skills are to lacking to have it ready this year.( or next, Lol) |
You’ll still see a lot of benefits even with the the standard table. Still have start retard, idle stabilization, rev limiter, and delayed start which lets the motor turn over a couple to reach full cranking speed before it send a signal to fire up. |
I did find the Daytona kit, including, coil,and the map sensor wire, for under 1200 $ for two. I’m going to start there get the boat going, then try to figure out the computer part. Once it’s in, it may not seem so intimidating. I will let you all know as soon as I get everything installed, and start the initial tuning in the driveway. Again,THANK YOU! Everyone for your time and input! |
It’s really not that difficult. The computer ties into the tach/brown wire. Upon install make sure that wire is accessible and they send weatherpak comnectors to add to make it easier. Follow install instructions. You can even download all the software right now and start playing with it. Don’t even need the box. You can set it all up at the kitchen table then take computer to the boat and upload to the boxes. The software downloads are available on the website. |
Once you go to some method of having computer control over timing you will never go back. Tames big cams, increased fuel economy, easier starts and having the ability to implement safeguards (depending on the control unit).
If I had to pick between just electronic fuel control or just electronic timing control..........Id pick timing control hands down (and have).......I can make a carb do whatever I want (within reason)....but I cant make timing advance as the engine slows to prevent a stall (with springs/weights)....I cant retard timing a couple degrees at peak torque then bring it back in a few hundred RPM after.....you get the idea. |
The timing control feature’s sound very good. I have to admit, I’m going to be thrilled if I can make the first trip with no damage. |
Hi again, sc here, I’m back! One new question, seems like an easy one, bought the Daytona sensor ingition’s and need to know for sure, do I lock out the distributor, and set it at 32’ or so, also do I need to refaze my msd pro Bullitt distributors? Been working like crazy to get it all together this year. |
Originally Posted by Scscoripion
(Post 4645583)
Hi again, sc here, I’m back! One new question, seems like an easy one, bought the Daytona sensor ingition’s and need to know for sure, do I lock out the distributor, and set it at 32’ or so, also do I need to refaze my msd pro Bullitt distributors? Been working like crazy to get it all together this year. |
Thanks, I was pretty sure to lock it, just wanted to make sure,I was just installing my fuel pump block off plates, and found a factory merc. Fuel pump on the rt. Engine, left had a high performance after market, no worries, lol. Back with more updates soon, Stu |
More updates, I was locking out the distributors the other day, remember I told you about the plug wires all zip tied together, well, when I was removing the the the msd’s7 al the distributor pick up wire was stuck, guess where. All zip tied in with the spark plug wires. Probably won’t reinstall the Daytona’s this way. I’m ready to set my rev limiter, can’t figure out the setting. Instructions say, use 06-99, wouldn’t that set it at almost 7000? Also, which canned timing curve would you recommend? Still hoping to get going this year, probably won’t have time to figure out custom mapping, MAP sensor, and the rest of it. On a exciting note, did get to go to clam diggers last night, in marks 40’ hawk( my old boat) great time for all. I got to be the designated driver on the way home. The lake was angry! Hell of a boat! We got wet. |
Ok, I think I have the rev limiter figured out,got the boxes installed tonight. Only have 14 things left on my list, out of about 109 , so not to bad. New caps & rotors today, lost an hour and a half trying to fish the stainless distributor cap screw out of the bilge, then my neighbor told me I should have used the shop vac, oh well all is well here in Curtice Ohio, back with more updates soon, SC |
Ok I’m here, wow! Got her going today! A couple of leaks, nothing bad. Check this out, got to thinking, a lot of people had luck with 32” locked timing, so I thought what the heck, returned my Daytona sensors marine cd1’s got my 1100$ back. Then , bought Delco hei chips, bolted them to my ingition mounts, (3/8”aluminum plate) wired them to my msd distributor’s, wala, instant ingition! Hit 72 on gps, never wot. Mabey 7/8” . 93oct from gas station. Seems tight, back soon with afr updates,,,,, sc |
By the way, 80$ seems like a good deal instead of 1100$ just saying |
Back, a couple of situations
[QUOTE]well, the motors are ok. Left tranny had water in it from a bad cooler. Rebuilt over the winter. Decided to go with the Daytona sensors, to much time and money to blow it all up. Will get back here soon Kith updates , again, thank you all! Especially MT,but not only. Been going to collage onOSO- lol ,,,,SC[/QUOT |
Idea
I need to get oil temputures, looked at in the pan sensor, and on the filter block. Has anyone ever modified an oil plug to have a temperature gauge incorporated with the plug? Would make instillation much easier. |
Hi again. Hope everyone has had a great season! I’ve got another question on the B&m 250. Have any of you ever run a thermostat in the intake manifold? Had to cut the last trip out short due to water temperatures not coming up off the 90” mark.( stone cold)
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Originally Posted by Scscoripion
(Post 4763957)
Hi again. Hope everyone has had a great season! I’ve got another question on the B&m 250. Have any of you ever run a thermostat in the intake manifold? Had to cut the last trip out short due to water temperatures not coming up off the 90” mark.( stone cold)
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Thanks Mild, good to hear from you! It’s been awhile. The old scoripion had a pretty good year. Never went far, my gps is a bunch of circles in front of Minkies marina,lol. Got about 25 hours on her though. Took a bunch of my work buds fishing a few times, been off all summer for cvid. Almost hate to go back next month!
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Finally figured out the pictures
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Help to program Daytona sensors
Hi again everyone. I’m to the point now , I’m ready to program my Daytona ingitions. My timing is set at 28” I’m hoping to get more top end with a program that will let it advance higher at 4000 rpms and above. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I have a computer tech guy who is also a motor head to help me install any thing you can advise. I have the MAP sensors, and all required hard ware. Just need a program. 468s iron heads, 250 B&Ms , boost reference carbs, 1000 cfm single carb. Cam ? DK no knock sensors yet. But no sign of detonation on plugs up to now. Thanks again SC
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Have you downloaded the software and played with it? The software (especially a 2D map) is exceptionally easy to use, then plug if into the tach (brown wire) coming off the Ignition box and upload the timing curve you built and the other parameters you programmed (retard, idle stabilization, etc,.....)
I just installed mine this weekend and uploaded a tune to try as soon as we get a warmer day. If your timing is locked to 28 you will never be able to advance timing beyond that. The box can only retard timing not cause a spark event to happen before it can physically happen. Tech Tip : the most frustrating thing is figuring out which COM port your computers USB port is. PS, lots of them are COM5. |
Since 2018 you`ve bought Daytona, returned Daytona, bought again Daytons and still trying to figure it out?
maybe blower motors are just not for you.. P.S. Your boat is a Scoripion , or Scorpion? |
I know I seem crazy with this, my budget is a major constraint. I almost did sell the blowers, then decided to try to get them going. I’ve had good luck so far, thanks to all the help, and advice from you guys. I still think about selling them, but I have three years of all my spare time in this , and she does scream like a banchee! Also, I’m not the most literate bulb in box, so if I misspell Scopeon, please bare with me, lol. Sc
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(1982 Chris craft scorpion 390 ) with spell checker ,,,,,,
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Hi, SC again, l have been thinking about what you said , Mabey I’m not right for blower motors, I am doing pretty good, considering I have only 19000 in this whole project. I bet some of you have that much in one engine. I’m not at all discouraged, it’s going to be a great summer! I really do need all the help, and advice you have to offer, that’s how I got this far. This will probably be the last year for the scorpion, too much crawling around for my getting old bones. Please mild, if you could send me that program you spoke of a couple of years ago I would love to see what this old boat could do. Thanks in advance, Stu
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So - can you clearly articulate what it is you need help with. I'm confused as hell. Somewhere you had locked timing at 32. Now it's at 28.
Per my earlier post have you installed the Daytona ignitions? Have you downloaded the software? Have you followed the Daytona installation instructions? |
No down loading yet. I have to wait for my bud, who is a computer guy/ motor head. My timing is set at 28” max , using the S.C. 800 pre installed program.
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Why not just advance the timing 4* and be done??
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Originally Posted by Scscoripion
(Post 4782022)
Also, I’m not the most literate bulb in box, so if I misspell Scopeon, please bare with me, lol. Sc
You know the difference between 'Advice' and 'Advise' :D |
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