Mabey I’m learning,,
 

rotor phasing is not changed with timing changes, locked or not,

Phasing is the relationship of the rotor under the cap posts. ust type in rotor phasing into your search engine and read away.

Why do you have 7 series ignitions ? Although not limited too, most are only used for short duration racing events like drag racing and top speed runs. A typical blower motor used in a boat does not need a welder as an ignition system. :)

What do you have for a motor set up ?

Yeah, the Daytona Sensors Ignitions are the schitz. I want one.

You can't replace 1 detonated piston for the cost of the Daytona's. They are worth the money.

endeaver32 on here had some Daytona boxes for around $400. He may still have some left.

2 bar map sensor works to 15# boost, 3 bar sensor works to 30# boost

The map sensor kit from Daytona is around $100 from what I remember, or you can use an aftermarket sensor and make your own harness. Instructions are provided with the ignition box.

you need the 2 or 3 bar map for the 3d timing table. Here is the instruction book and go down a few pages you can get an idea of what it looks like. Also Mark Rinda MER performance sells all the Daytona stuff. You can contact him.

http://nebula.wsimg.com/15bae9a38be4...&alloworigin=1

https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2013.htm

I used this with my Marine MSD boxes that were already in the boat when I bought it. 5 bar capable. Cheap. Lets you use what you have or can be used (save $$) I implement an aggressive idle reserve timing strategy so the RPM drop into gear is barely audible.

It can control a coil by itself but I do not have any experience with it that way. I am using it to trigger the MSD box.

I locked out my MSD distributors and installed it per the instructions. Wiring was easy....the longest part was figuring out where I wanted to mount it.

Works well for getting some additional advance to clean up the idle in slow no wakes and a bit better fuel economy with cruising........then drop timing back under higher loads.

The only thing I dont like about it is that the software likes to lock up when the engine is running.......I dont know if that is an issue with my USB to serial converter (shouldnt be...it works well with Tunerstudio/megasquirt), my ancient laptop or the software itself.

The map sensor has a bit of historesis and is offset from reality a bit (reads slightly lower pressure then reality when checked vs. a gauge/regulator). However Im not using much of its range so the resolution isnt there.

Rotor phasing does need to be checked. On mine it was fine at 30*. If you have issues MSD does make a phase-able rotor.

I know the CB will fire a coil. However, the dwell (in milliseconds not degrees) is not adjustable (at least in the software) to match a specific coil's saturation time and current demands. CB may be able to recommend a coil that works with their box on a V8.

Idle stablization is one of the best features of the daytona box. Alot of guys dont understand why or how it works. I'll do my best to explain.

You have a decent camshaft in your engine. Everyone knows with a larger camshaft, idle quality suffers. You have reversion taking place, and a loss of vacuum. When you shift the engine into gear, the vacuum drops. When its in nuetral, it increases. Carburetors cannot deal with this scenerio well. In modern EFI engines, the computer, Idle air control valves, help compensate. In a carb'd boat engine, we dont have that.

So, lets look at crude intentions scenerio I been helping him with. He has a 502, fairly healthy cam (243/251 112 LSA). He had a standard ignition that he had timing in the upper 20's at idle if I recall. Wasnt shifting that well like he said, and had a big rpm drop between nuetral and in gear, sputter, and want to stall. Once he installed the daytona ignitions, I made him a timing map. He now idles at 16* above 700RPM. Once he shifts into gear, and the RPM attemps to drop below 700RPM, the ignition will throw an extra 20* of advance to it, and will keep adding it to maintain at least 700rpm.

In nuetral, when idling, the carb sees a better signal than it does in gear. This is because of the vacuum being higher in nuetral. You might say, well why not just lock it at 36*? Well, because now the carb is seeing an even stronger signal in nuetral. This raises the idle speed, and requires you to turn the throttle blades closed to get the rpm back down to a shiftable rpm. Then what? Now you shift into gear, and again, you still get the big RPM drop. So, by being able to control the timing unloaded and loaded while at idle, you are also changing the signal the carburetor sees, and needs. Think of it sort of like having one camshaft for nuetral, and one camshaft for in gear that self adjusts. The setup flat out works, used it on quite a few marine engines and everyone loves it once its setup right.

Aside from idle stabilization, you get to program a custom timing map, based on RPM, or MAP/RPM. You can datalog your rpm, timing, map signal, Air fuel ratio. You can use the ignition to trigger RPM switches. You have a built in rev limiter, several pre programmed advance curves. You can compensate for magnetic trigger retard, add start retard, delay spark until a set amount of cranking pulses occur, email and download custom maps to your friends, as well as email and view datalogs. Coupled to the Daytona WEGO wideband, you can do live view of MAP/AFR readings, adjust stoich for whatever fuel type you are running, and so on.

You get a good coil in the kit, the software, and wiring. The map sensor kit is optional. When you look at what this ignition does, vs say a MSD marine box, its WELL worth the cost.

PS. I would get a larger carburetor for your engine.

2d means 2 dimensional. 3d means 3 dimensional. A 3d map is MAP and RPM based table, 2d is rpm only based.

I think you mean a 2 bar map sensor works to 15lbs, and a 3 bar works to 30 lbs (2 or 3 atmospheres)

If youre running less than 15lbs, definitely get the 2 bar sensor. With a 3 bar, on a 7psi setup, you basically might as well run a RPM based map, as there is almost no resolution.

You certainly dont "need" a 3d timing table with map sensor. However, for the extra 75 bucks or whatever the map sensor kit goes for, i think its worth it. Once you learn how to use the software, its nice to be able to datalog the runs and monitor map at various rpms.

believe me, i am no computer genius thats for sure. It took me a while to figure out how to work with the software so i totally get it!