A little help on the mercathode system...
07-31-2018, 09:17 PM
#1
A little help on the mercathode system...
The mercathode system on my boat was slightly butchered when I bought it. It was all freshwater and there is no harm thus far but since I have it all apart I’d like to put it back to its full integrity if possible.
To start, when I pulled the bell housing the little bast*rd of a screw that holds the bonding cable sheared right off so I have to drill and tap that out. Any idea what size that was?
are there complete kits to patch it all together?
08-01-2018, 06:58 AM
#2
Charter Member
You can buy all the screws and wires thru Merc. Genuine Mercury & Mercruiser parts. CONTINUITY KITp
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
08-07-2018, 10:22 AM
#4
Registered
Have you researched Mercathode well? Members here had to double up controllers to get enough field to even be effective. I simple replaced the cathode with a zinc rather then go through the ridiculous testing procedure to find out if there's enough field etc.
08-07-2018, 07:29 PM
#5
Connect lead from 1/2 cell to DVM. Connect ground lead from DVM to boat ground. Drop 1/2 cell in water behind drive and read meter. Easy Pezy. Besides, how do you know if your zinc is enough w/o doing the same test?
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
08-08-2018, 07:12 AM
#6
Registered
You can watch the zinc erode and add an array of more temporarily while slipped.
Keith
Last edited by Tractionless; 08-08-2018 at 07:16 AM.
08-15-2018, 07:16 AM
#10
Registered
Most weekend boaters don't have a DVM laying around and they aren't cheap, from what I researched. Additionally the procedure says you need to either wait for 12 hrs after pulling into your slip or run the test for 12 hrs for it to be accurate. I can't recall which at the moment, it's been awhile. And at that, whatever changes you make like running more than one system per engine etc you're only covered for that slip as fields from slip to slip change. IMO, not worth it for trailered boats like mine which may transient for a night or two.
You can watch the zinc erode and add an array of more temporarily while slipped.
Keith
It is a must have for any one that works on a car, boat or house.
