Speedy i already have the standard bar! As far as couplers should i go aluminum or the hd steel with the snout?

standard is fine for stock power..Ive ran 600hp on the non HP coupler........if want to sell the ITS bar let me know

Sorry to learn you are still having issues...if the drive goes in easily it is normally an indication of good alignment.
If poor "static" alignment the last 1/4"-1/2" is tough to get in with a push and some side to side/up/down wiggling/movement.

Did it slide in easily? If so maybe another issue as suggested above-

2 years later i forgot to update this thread haha! So i had that tiny vibration after getting the alignment dialed in. I thought i didn't get the alignment good enough. So i inspected the coupler with my borescope and the splines looked perfect. Verified the alignment was good after adding the .100 shims to the rear mounts. Went through the drive and found the propshaft had .040 runout!!! New propshaft and it's smooth as can be. Over 200 hours since and pulled the drive to check on the coupler and the splines still look new! So i'm confident to call this one fixed! Thanks tinkerer for the shim advice. Without the adapter plate to fit in the bellhousing and the protractor trick there's no way i would have ever figured out the problem as the bar would always slide in with 2 fingers when the u joint plane like tinkerer stated was way off. The its tool works too but was sloppy fitting in the coupler. Not sure what's up with that but i'm not worried about it. I may try to put a speedi sleeve on it and get it machined for a real snug fit to the spare coupler i keep? As long as the gimbal ring and pin is tight i will continue to use the bellhousing plate. On the new boat i bought i was able to do the same process but much quicker this time! Flush adapter plate and 13 degrees! No shims needed this time!

Thanks again everyone for taking the time to help on this problem!