what am i missing here?

got the 3 things needed to make fire

any one in here have a Holley system?

The switched 12v purple wire was not designed to have another device connected to it, whats the current draw of the controller ??

The purple wire to the
EFI doesn't power it. It just turns it on.
the 50* timing setting is the mechanical timing you have to physically set the distributor to it is not the timing you set on the computer.
You can't advance timing you can only delay it. SO you set the distributor at 50* timing and then the EFI delays the timing to what ever it wants.
So if you don't have the initial 50* timing set properly than your EFI computer set timing will not be correct.

He stated it ran fine on the dyno so why would the timing / distributor need to be set.....

I didn't read that it ran on the dyno. Where do you read this?
If it ran on the dyno and he has spark and fuel it would be running now.
Something is not set right.
Are the injectors getting power?
If the timing is not correct it is not going to run.

LTZCrew mentioned it twice.

not sure on current draw of the computer-

the red/white wire as far as i knew is only a signal wire to tell the ECU im cranking the motor unless im missing something in the diagram, i don't think it should really have any draw

it was on the dyno running so im was going after something that has changed, could have changed or is totally different

this timing thing has me thinking tho. i talked to the installer and they say they did not pull the distributor but who knows. it looks like it would be a super tight fit to install this motor with out pulling it.
to check this 50* i would disable the computer control to the distributor - pull the highlighted connector - and fuel injectors and crank the motor and have 50* with a timing light showing at the TDC mark on the balance?

just want to make sure im checking this right.

with the merc manual for the 575SCI it shows base timing set at 8*, would this be checked the same way or with the computer having control
want to make sure im checking it correctly

What I did was align the marks at 50*
Then after the engine is running you set the EFI for constant timing and then just adjust the dizzy till you have the same timing on the marks that the Computer shows you are supposed to have;
IF the engine was running with a carb and timed for a carb you are way off for EFI. Try advancing the dizzy about 40* and see if it fires

Remember EFI CAN'T advance timing - IT can ONLY retard it. SO you have to run total possible advance initially and the EFI retards it back to normal timing..

Those quotes don't show up on my screen.
Went back over all of his posts and no show on this thread.

My guess is that right now you are injecting fuel and sparking way after TDC.

same as Daytona Ignition or any other for that matter that foes not have mechanical advance.

Simple really. Brain just has to accept it. Advancing electronically is actually retarding less. :)


Remember, you can't send a spark before the trigger. :)
But you can electronically delay the spark after the trigger.

ok so, just so Im following. i disable to computer control, set the distributor +/- 50* BTDC well cranking .
i don't have much experience at all with distributors, everything is now coil on plug and so much easier

Okay, think this thread is getting ahead of the issue and you have mentioned a few times nothing bolted to the engine has changed from the dyno session, therefore the distributor will still be phased correctly.

You mentioned the power wiring and fuel pump wiring has changed obviously for the dyno session....so in there should be your issue. Batt + power / ign+ power/ grounds/ relays ? voltmeter/test light/good eye is your friend. :)

probably true haha

i will load a wiring diagram with my voltage readings tonight, the reason i find it hard to believe it is a power issue is because. i have over 10v at the motor well cranking - and cranking for a LONG time, makes no difference on trying to start if im running on A/B or both batteries, two brand new battery's made no difference in any way, moved the ECM power supply to a remote new battery so its not seeing any starter current drop and zilch
im making the mistake of assuming relays are good due to injectors are firing and dumping fuel and i have spark at all 8 plugs

Was the engine running on the dyno with a carb or with EFI???

Efi

Got it running, guess when the motor was put in the distributor got wacked and broke the pole part :greenchainsaw: new distributor in and it runs like a top

61 post for a careless installation...........pole part ??......u should kick the installer in the privates

WOW
hook the engine up to a computer and verify the engine is timed properly.
lock the timing and make sure the actual timing marks show the same as what the computer is showing it should be.

your telling me. i was ready to sell it and order a crate motor. they got a ear full and a descriptive google review :faint2:

went in and re checked all the timing and get it back to where it should be. starts like a champ and runs like a top

thanks for all the input on stuff guys :Score-101010: