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Replacing Intake and Water Pump

Old 07-22-2020, 11:26 AM
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Default Replacing Intake and Water Pump

I'm about to install a new intake and remove/re-seal my water pump. The water pump isn't leaking, but I'm going to clean and paint the front of my motor. It's a 97 454 Gen VI in a Sundancer 290. I know quite a bit about street big blocks, but this is the first time for working on one in my boat. Here are my plans. Any issues? Comments appreciated...

1. Installing Mercruiser cast iron intake
-Using Felpro 17340 Marine intake gaskets. Eliminating the end seals and replacing with Permatex Ultra Black. Ultra Black is good for marine applications right or should I use red for high heat? Also using around the coolant passages.
-If the kit comes with the cross over block offs I'll use them. Electric choke.

2. Removing and reinstalling water/circulating pump. Dry gaskets or Indian Shellac? I've always liked using a little something on the gaskets.
3. Replacing coil.
4. Distributor. Mercruiser Service Manual #16 doesn't say anything about grounding the Purple/White wire to set the timing in Base Timing Mode. I'm supposed to do that right? Manual says 1992 on the front so I'm assuming it was printed before TB V ignitions. Also replacing module mounting bracket attached to distributor.
5. Oil change. 40w?
6. Probably should change the v belts too and the impeller if it hasn't been done yet.



Last edited by HawkX66; 07-22-2020 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 07-22-2020, 12:48 PM
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Looks like U got rust in the intake ports which isn't good?
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Old 07-22-2020, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by PA.WOODCHUCK View Post
Looks like U got rust in the intake ports which isn't good?
Saltwater motor that needed an intake. I'm not surprised to see what's in there. What's in the actual intake ports is mostly just from sitting for the last year with the intake off. More surface rust than anything. It'll be cleaned up before I'm done.
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Old 07-28-2020, 02:44 AM
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Gasket prep should always include using a straight edge to check your surfaces - running a flat file across surfaces will show you low and high spots.

1. Ultra Black is fine. Test fit the intake dry w gaskets first just to make sure it all lines up good w the ports (if somebody has decked the block or milled on the heads, you may need to adjust gasket thickness - probably no need to worry but I always check first). And I'm sure you know that you have to hook up the electric choke to coil power or else the choke never opens (again, I've just seen lots of guys think its OK to test and tune with the choke unwired..).

2. If you like shellac, go for it.

3. Primary 0.7 ohms
. Secondary 10k ohms

4. TB IV - no need to do anything weird. Hook up the timing light and start twisting.
. TB V - ground the wire.

5. Oil change. As long as you make sure you are above 160 degrees before you rev more than 2800, Straight 40 wt is a great choice for a hot weather boat with limited ventilation in the bilge. But full synthetic 15w40 is my preference in something like your Sundancer.
6. You should backflush the steering cooler, oil cooler. And supply hoses back to the raw pump. Always start out with KNOWN CLEAN water passages from the pump to the water neck. Always start out with a known good impeller. Speaking of the water neck. With all the rust I see, go ahead and buy the water neck refurb kit with the springloaded metering balls to the exh manifolds. Inspect the ball seats and clean the rust out of em.
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Old 07-28-2020, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mcollinstn View Post
Gasket prep should always include using a straight edge to check your surfaces - running a flat file across surfaces will show you low and high spots.

1. Ultra Black is fine. Test fit the intake dry w gaskets first just to make sure it all lines up good w the ports (if somebody has decked the block or milled on the heads, you may need to adjust gasket thickness - probably no need to worry but I always check first). And I'm sure you know that you have to hook up the electric choke to coil power or else the choke never opens (again, I've just seen lots of guys think its OK to test and tune with the choke unwired..).

2. If you like shellac, go for it.

3. Primary 0.7 ohms
. Secondary 10k ohms

4. TB IV - no need to do anything weird. Hook up the timing light and start twisting.
. TB V - ground the wire.

5. Oil change. As long as you make sure you are above 160 degrees before you rev more than 2800, Straight 40 wt is a great choice for a hot weather boat with limited ventilation in the bilge. But full synthetic 15w40 is my preference in something like your Sundancer.
6. You should backflush the steering cooler, oil cooler. And supply hoses back to the raw pump. Always start out with KNOWN CLEAN water passages from the pump to the water neck. Always start out with a known good impeller. Speaking of the water neck. With all the rust I see, go ahead and buy the water neck refurb kit with the springloaded metering balls to the exh manifolds. Inspect the ball seats and clean the rust out of em.
Thanks for the info. Just what I was looking for. Mostly the same as automotive with a couple of important differences that you pointed out. Now if it'll get below 100 degrees in the boatyard so I can get over there and get her back together... I think I'm going to set up a cover/camper top and run a portable a/c unit that I have so I can work in style lol

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Old 07-31-2020, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mcollinstn View Post
5. Oil change. As long as you make sure you are above 160 degrees before you rev more than 2800, Straight 40 wt is a great choice for a hot weather boat with limited ventilation in the bilge. But full synthetic 15w40 is my preference in something like your Sundancer.
I noticed the Quicksilver oil is 25w40. What do you think about that?
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Old 07-31-2020, 11:08 AM
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That’s fine.
As a heads up Mobil1 15w-50 is around $24 for a 5 quart jug at Wally World. Tons x tons boaters use this.
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Old 08-16-2020, 07:59 PM
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Almost done. Waiting on a few more parts, but she's just about ready.



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