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Locating engine idea, good/bad ?

Old 08-25-2020, 09:44 AM
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Default Locating engine idea, good/bad ?

Because of lack of storage and no shop with a permanent crane i have to try and be creative and it has to done single handed.

Only want to set up the crane 1 time.

I bought this engine/pylon mount because it would solve some assembly unknowns, and it does but with other problems in the mix.

1. Its not sqaure, and its sprung inward at the back end.

2 the only reliable engine mounting holes are the vertical rears and the horizontal fronts.

(these are marked with arrows on blue tape )


i want to locate the engine mount so the 1. dog box hatch can get glassed, 2. the pylon shoe can get bedded and this project can keep scratching along.


heres the idea ;

measure from the centerline of the rearmost engine mount hole to the center line of the flange on the transmission.

install the strut, shaft and prop so there is a 1/2 inch between the prop and strut.

shim up the shaft in the boat so its centered pretty good in the strut bearing (should be pretty close to finish).

with a big sqaure on the shaft and straight edge across the boat measure and mark the mount to flange measurement taken earlier.


now, since the engine pylon mount is not sqaure, using either the left or right side forwardmost mounting hole (mount to stringer)

marked A on blue tape (B just isnt pictured but you get the point)

drill 1 hole either a or b and thats it.


from there, the dog box can get located on the floor and bonded together, the groove can get cut for the pylon so the the whole hatch opens up, and all the glass and finish work can happen so the engine can go in.


Once the boat is ready for the engine ; bolt engine to mount set in boat, locate that 1 hole and bolt it in,

using clamps and the engine mounts,

get the mount all sqaured up test fit the shaft and prop,

mark remaining mount to stringer holes pull engine,

drill holes and swab with resin let dry overnight,

and put engine back in boat boom crane only set up once.









Plus the boat has to be back on the trailer, see why i only want to do that and set up ole rickety 1 more time.


Last edited by outonsafari; 08-25-2020 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 08-25-2020, 10:13 AM
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On the mercury installation filter, all these measurements are listed, since it uses the engine mounts off the trans and i got the 10-17 , my math should be pretty close.
but i'm not working with a merc engine and the mounts are all kinds of articulating mess
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Old 09-06-2020, 02:59 PM
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so with the mock stringers level, the engine level with crank @ 12 1/2degrees (beleve strut is 12 or 13)

the distance from the mounting holes to the crank center on flange is 4 3/4 starb, 5 port. Split the dif minus the half inch ply

4 3/8 inches. Confident enough to transfer onto boat so the engine hatch/dogbox can get glassed and pylon hole located in the hatch.


with all the inconsistencies of the wood, the articulating mounts and so on i think it'll work

anyone see a hole in how this was all figured out please speak up, looking for and appreciate any opinions,
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Old 09-09-2020, 04:01 PM
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Old 09-09-2020, 04:18 PM
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when i took the boat apart there was a shim under the rear of the strut and the strut bed was all hacked up so a little time with the grinder on the strut and bed now it fts nice and flat with no rocking and cocking.


installed strut w/o shim, shaft is hitting something in the log, the hacks left a big glob of bedding compound in the way, no poblem grind it out, shaft hits the log now, wtf ? Closer look reveals shaft log not bedded down to hull all the way in front. Or it looks that way anyway, all goffied up.


so they ground the bed and threw in a shim to clear, between the shim and the grinding add about 3-4 degrees +/- shaft angle.

don't know how that translates into how the boat will run, but it would be nice if the boat ran as designed

"despite what i did to it"


the other thing is the engine was slid over to port and the log isnt really straight either.
it looks like the shaft log may have to get cut out and rebedded after alignment,

the dowel should bend and go thru, hopefully i can get the engine mount location,

swear to god next project is gonna be easy !

Last edited by outonsafari; 09-09-2020 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 09-09-2020, 06:55 PM
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It is not uncommon to adjust the strut. There is nothing you are going to change here that ill affect how the boat will run.

If you draw it out on paper the shaft angle is going to be a line connecting some arbitrary point in front of the prop to the center of the transmission flange. The challenge is to make the strut, log and crankshaft center-lines all coincide. The point in front of the prop is pretty much determined by the strut casting. Unless you shim a ton or grind until you die that height is not going to change much.

If it was me I would center the engine as best I could port & starboard at both ends. Looks like you have the stringers in straight so use them as the reference.

Last time I did this I made a sleeve so I could put a laser pointer in the strut. Then I fiddled with the strut and aimed it at the back of the transmission. There was no way I was going to move the shaft logs on the boat I was working on. Do the best you can to rough in the engine height front and rear.

Like you a shim was not something I wanted so I put the struts in my mill and cut as needed until the angles matched. No mill? Grinder and some patience which you seem to have an abundance of will do.

For final assembly I bedded the struts with Marinetex and only tightened the bolts finger tight until it set up.


So now the prop shaft is more or less aimed at the engine. The next challenge is to install the flanges and adjust the engine until the flange faces are parallel.



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Old 09-09-2020, 07:42 PM
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Kinda looked at alignment when the couplers got disconnected, before the shaft was disconnected, it spun freely, no binding anywhere so i didnt obsess over it. Plus the stringers were rotted, foam was waterlogged and the boat was all twisted up sitting crooked on the trailer.

Noted was ; the engine is slid over to port on its mounts, just figured the stringers were crooked.
and the flywheel housing was an inch or so off the hull, that pointed me to the shim under rear of strut.

i like that laser pointer idea. I pulled strings, dropped plumb bobs and set up the water level to lay this all out, have to do it again and rifle sight thru the strut to see whats what.

thanks for the response, coming from a pro, i'm not worried now about the shim and shaft angle connection with performance.

thank you.
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Old 09-15-2020, 07:38 PM
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Seen enough to convince myself that it's good enough to drill 1 hole to locate it.
All set up, levels centered and on the mark with sqaure dropped 1 9/16 below the engine mount, dummy shaft is right there and front of engine mount is on a mark where i set it based off just moving the mount 1 1/2 inches forward.

wont know if log will need to be reset until d-day, and believe strut can be adjusted, expect both to happen, but it has to be centered and straight.







Last edited by outonsafari; 09-15-2020 at 07:41 PM.
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