Oil remote thermostat...
07-18-2023 | 01:59 PM
#11
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From: Perdido Key, Madison, NC
Tom, remember, though water boils off at 212, that doesn't mean that it isn't removing water from the oil at lower temperatures. Steam begins to form around 175 degrees and will be ingested through crankshaft ventilation. It would be good to see what the sump temps look like via an infrared temp gun aimed at the pan.
Your engines have been running well for a good amount of time and you're asking for a whole heap of redesign to add thermostatic control at the oil filter pad. Not sure I'd mess with this. It will be easier to find a cooler with a built-in thermostat, or replace the remote filter setup with an HP500 combo oil filter/thermostat assembly (I have a pair of these that I might consider selling).
Your engines have been running well for a good amount of time and you're asking for a whole heap of redesign to add thermostatic control at the oil filter pad. Not sure I'd mess with this. It will be easier to find a cooler with a built-in thermostat, or replace the remote filter setup with an HP500 combo oil filter/thermostat assembly (I have a pair of these that I might consider selling).
I thought I was going with the simplest thermostat design (given my clearances) as the remote location I have for the oil filters did not account for an extra few inches of spacing needed for the thermostat adapters that I looked at (send a link to what you have/recommend)...AND I will look at it again.
Plastic Plugs -10AN 6 pack
07-18-2023 | 02:27 PM
#13
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Tom,
you will have a fair amount of re-plumbing to accomplish this conversion. Roscoe in central Florida has this setup if you need any pictures or suggestions he is very helpful. Be sure to keep the oil line lengths as short as possible and use wide radius fittings when you can. Jegs and Summitt sell all the fittings you need. I would (did) go with -12 lines. A little harder to route but a lot more flow/less static drag.
you will have a fair amount of re-plumbing to accomplish this conversion. Roscoe in central Florida has this setup if you need any pictures or suggestions he is very helpful. Be sure to keep the oil line lengths as short as possible and use wide radius fittings when you can. Jegs and Summitt sell all the fittings you need. I would (did) go with -12 lines. A little harder to route but a lot more flow/less static drag.
07-18-2023 | 04:08 PM
#14
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From: Perdido Key, Madison, NC
Tom,
you will have a fair amount of re-plumbing to accomplish this conversion. Roscoe in central Florida has this setup if you need any pictures or suggestions he is very helpful. Be sure to keep the oil line lengths as short as possible and use wide radius fittings when you can. Jegs and Summitt sell all the fittings you need. I would (did) go with -12 lines. A little harder to route but a lot more flow/less static drag.
you will have a fair amount of re-plumbing to accomplish this conversion. Roscoe in central Florida has this setup if you need any pictures or suggestions he is very helpful. Be sure to keep the oil line lengths as short as possible and use wide radius fittings when you can. Jegs and Summitt sell all the fittings you need. I would (did) go with -12 lines. A little harder to route but a lot more flow/less static drag.
I hope I thought this out correctly, I already had a engine block remote adapter leading to the remote oil filter (hose #1), leading to the oil cooler (hose #2) and then back to the adapter on the block (hose #3).
I expect to add just one hose (new hose from remote filter back to thermostat, frankly I plan on repurposing hose #2 and making a short hose for one going to the cooler)...again trying to minimize changes/variables. I understand AN 12 hose would be better but I have AN10 everywhere else. I'm assuming these clamped fittings (see picture) are also available from Jegs/Summit.
