How to diagnose air leak along water pump
#13
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They were changed out at the same time. Scoring didn’t cross my mind, it hasn’t been used that much since the impeller and housing was changed. It gets used enough I would say to keep the impeller from drying out but total usage would be pretty low. From looking into the housing, the impeller looks fine. I’m going to try to troubleshoot and see if there’s a leak in the hose before removing the housing and changing out the impeller, if there’s any issues with the housing, I’ll have to go buy and replace that as well. Just wanted to confirm or rule out the air leak first.
#14
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From: East Tennesseee
"IF" You were drawing air, it'd also be blowing out that same rupture when you hold the muffs tight. If that impeller has been in for 6yrs it's shot. They take a set when they sit for a while. So if it's surging, it's probably because only half the vanes are touching on the suction half of the pump.
#15
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"IF" You were drawing air, it'd also be blowing out that same rupture when you hold the muffs tight. If that impeller has been in for 6yrs it's shot. They take a set when they sit for a while. So if it's surging, it's probably because only half the vanes are touching on the suction half of the pump.
TO BE CONTINUED…
#16
What engine/drive are we talking about here? Bravo typical SWP on the block? (Not an Alpha with impeller in drive?)
1) Muffs suck donkey balls, avoid using them at all costs.
2) Try dropping the lower unit in a 55 gallon plastic drum, filled to the brim with hose running. No external water leak at least, plus the weight of the water will force water up the drive with whatever suction it does have.
3) If the pump is scored, it will not draw water. It won’t build suction.same if there is some damage to impeller that you can’t see. If you can get hoses off to peak inside, replacing impeller should be a 15 min job.
4) Better would be to put a Tee in the input hose to the SWP, and introduce the water there as in a fresh water flush setup.
5) Last resort, rig up a short 1,25” hose and PVC capped garden hose fitting, and force water directly into SWP with no where else to go.
6) Be certain to check the transom assembly for corrosion and/or collapsed water inlet hose. It’s common, even in fresh water with mussels or similar.
1) Muffs suck donkey balls, avoid using them at all costs.
2) Try dropping the lower unit in a 55 gallon plastic drum, filled to the brim with hose running. No external water leak at least, plus the weight of the water will force water up the drive with whatever suction it does have.
3) If the pump is scored, it will not draw water. It won’t build suction.same if there is some damage to impeller that you can’t see. If you can get hoses off to peak inside, replacing impeller should be a 15 min job.
4) Better would be to put a Tee in the input hose to the SWP, and introduce the water there as in a fresh water flush setup.
5) Last resort, rig up a short 1,25” hose and PVC capped garden hose fitting, and force water directly into SWP with no where else to go.
6) Be certain to check the transom assembly for corrosion and/or collapsed water inlet hose. It’s common, even in fresh water with mussels or similar.
#17
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What engine/drive are we talking about here? Bravo typical SWP on the block? (Not an Alpha with impeller in drive?)
1) Muffs suck donkey balls, avoid using them at all costs.
2) Try dropping the lower unit in a 55 gallon plastic drum, filled to the brim with hose running. No external water leak at least, plus the weight of the water will force water up the drive with whatever suction it does have.
3) If the pump is scored, it will not draw water. It won’t build suction.same if there is some damage to impeller that you can’t see. If you can get hoses off to peak inside, replacing impeller should be a 15 min job.
4) Better would be to put a Tee in the input hose to the SWP, and introduce the water there as in a fresh water flush setup.
5) Last resort, rig up a short 1,25” hose and PVC capped garden hose fitting, and force water directly into SWP with no where else to go.
6) Be certain to check the transom assembly for corrosion and/or collapsed water inlet hose. It’s common, even in fresh water with mussels or similar.
1) Muffs suck donkey balls, avoid using them at all costs.
2) Try dropping the lower unit in a 55 gallon plastic drum, filled to the brim with hose running. No external water leak at least, plus the weight of the water will force water up the drive with whatever suction it does have.
3) If the pump is scored, it will not draw water. It won’t build suction.same if there is some damage to impeller that you can’t see. If you can get hoses off to peak inside, replacing impeller should be a 15 min job.
4) Better would be to put a Tee in the input hose to the SWP, and introduce the water there as in a fresh water flush setup.
5) Last resort, rig up a short 1,25” hose and PVC capped garden hose fitting, and force water directly into SWP with no where else to go.
6) Be certain to check the transom assembly for corrosion and/or collapsed water inlet hose. It’s common, even in fresh water with mussels or similar.



Well…. Now I can kinda see
Last edited by Prestigeworldwideee; 11-02-2025 at 03:13 PM. Reason: Adding
#19
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Murrayville Georgia
that was junk several years ago. the fins should stand straight out. they are bent due to none use and will no longer make a good seal when turning. always replace the housing at the same time as it is not worth the hassle for the minimal cost.




