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Originally Posted by Chris Sunkin
(Post 2352940)
I've come to the conclusion that the best TRS mod is the Konrad.
Thanks all for the input! I often wish I got a TRS boat cheap and put some Konrads on! :angry-smiley-038: However, I don't agree that the Konrad is the answer for a bravo. TRS to Konrad is the way to go, it's what it's designed for! :cool-smiley-011: |
White Knuckles: Trannies are Borg Warners C-72s/Velvet Drive
Flashhat: Gimbals can only be pulled by removing the motors and removing the 8 nuts from the inner gimbal plates. You need a stud remover to pull the old studs and start making calls to Bam Marine, Speedmasters Inc, Doller Marine, or Offshore Perfomance Specialties for a set of new studs if needed. All 4 of these shops stock plenty of TRS parts. When I did my external steering I needed extra long studs to mount the Marine Machine wing plates on the drives and they charged $25 each. Konrads are defintely the way to go if you can afford to pay $10,000 per drive. If you can afford $20K then have both drives gone through and resealed. They really are bullet proof if you maintain them by proper throttling and fluid changes. |
Originally Posted by US MUSL
(Post 2353039)
White Knuckles: Trannies are Borg Warners C-72s/Velvet Drive
Flashhat: Gimbals can only be pulled by removing the motors and removing the 8 nuts from the inner gimbal plates All eight fasteners are accessable, the two nuts located under the transmission ears (BW only) are the only ones that can be a bit of a chore but not too bad with the right tools. I've found that a Snap On semi-deep 3/4 socket and a wobble drive extension works to start removing, after several full turns, switch to a 3/4 flex-socket and you're there. Been involved in many TRS/Konrad conversions, most twin engine boats can be completed within a days work. If anyone is interested, shoot me your address in a PM and I'll send you out the installation manual. This procedure is well documented. Kurt Kurt |
Originally Posted by Biggus
(Post 2355145)
Actually, this is incorrect. The gimbals can be removed with out pulling the engines.
Kurt In the past I've removed the gimbal rings but never the whole assembly with the engine in the boat. |
Now all Konrad has to do is come up with a #6 replacement that bolts up to the #3 hole and I'm all set.
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Originally Posted by Panther
(Post 2355188)
Kurt, I never tried that. Did you support the tailstock/trannie, then remove all the nuts on the inner transom plate?
In the past I've removed the gimbal rings but never the whole assembly with the engine in the boat. Kurt |
Originally Posted by Chris Sunkin
(Post 2355229)
Now all Konrad has to do is come up with a #6 replacement that bolts up to the #3 hole and I'm all set.
There's certainly a lot of interest for a SSMVI replacement but I don't see it happening too soon. Our SSMIII/IIIA conversion is fully competed and works perfectly along with a few more mph to boot! Just got home from Miami testing the first conversion. More to come on this !!!! Kurt |
I would assume that if you had a merctrans set up you would have to pull the engine...I know that I have not been successful at even tightening all 8 nuts let alone removeing them.
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I would go ahead and pull the motors regardless of if you can do it with them in or not. They come out so easily and it makes everything else so excessable. With them out you can replace damaged or old hoses pumps etc.
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Originally Posted by Biggus
(Post 2355305)
There's certainly a lot of interest for a SSMVI replacement but I don't see it happening too soon.
Our SSMIII/IIIA conversion is fully competed and works perfectly along with a few more mph to boot! Just got home from Miami testing the first conversion. More to come on this !!!! Kurt |
yeah kurt spill the beans man, dont make me tell the guys about your poop story... :eek:
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Originally Posted by Chris Sunkin
(Post 2355615)
Is the III conversion a TBA thing? I was unaware there was any activity on this product. Pics/specs?
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Konrads are the answer. a replacement drive to bolt right to your existing Gimbal is less than $10,000 new with warrenty.
Just a note been building drives for over 35 years. Done lots of different coatings. Coating does not change the strength of a gear. It only helps with break-in. Hardness is what helps with strength. |
I had TRS on my 38 and the 3 blades were crap. No low end and bad out of the water. 4 blades worked better. Also, what power are you running? Up to 500 or 600 HP without blowers, TRS will hold up if maintained. Konrads are interesting, however, as noted above they are expensive as a swap over from TRS or even 3's if you consider their price in ratio of the cost of the boats that they are going on.
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Originally Posted by Chris Sunkin
(Post 2352940)
I've come to the conclusion that the best TRS mod is the Konrad.
I was trying to convince myself this was just a second boat and I didn't want to go overboard. Having missed 2 seasons with a stalled boat project, the thought of missing a 3rd due to a broken drive and searching for NLA parts in the end was just un-appealing. Especially considering the decent boating season up here is about 90 days and half of those weekends it's raining. Plus, now I can mount the blowers on the motors and still sleep soundly.:) Thanks all for the input! |
Originally Posted by Panther
(Post 3032847)
How's the boat running with the Konrads today?
Kurt |
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