Front driven bearing cup removal help
#1
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Front driven bearing cup removal help
I dont do too many Bravo lowers. The front cup on this one wont budge. Always used my Snap On slide hammer pullers with no problems but not this time. Any ideas? I havent used the smoke wrench yet. If I do, should I heat from the outside or try and heat around the cup on the inside? Do I need the Merc puller?
Thanks
Tom
Thanks
Tom
#2
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heat the case from the outside. Make sure its clean so you don't burn grease into the paint. Heat evenly around the cup area until warm to the touch. You will in effect warm the entire case be patient.
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My .02 cents worth - If you have a 3 jaw puller - use it. And like Jim said - heating the case up helps - but don't get too hot. I've set my puller up with a peice of all thread (which was a ***** to find) and a cover peice to pull at the other end. No more slamming a hammer to get the race out. Just tighten the nut and out it comes.
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Thanks, Ill have at it again with the heat. I used a 2 jaw since there was recesses in the casting at 12 and 6 for the jaws but Ill try a 3 jaw and the all thread and plate (i have them).
#5
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Tom
I built a tool to pry the race out. When there is the plug in front of the race. I do what you guys are talking about for the stuborn ones..
Put a 1" thick piece of aluminum across the opening of the bullet with a hole in it and use 5/8" threaded rod connected to the puller jaws. It is tight fit to get your hand in there and open the jaws, but once accomplished, I tighten the nut on top and it puts much more force on the puller. A bit of heat from the outside with tension on the race.. and it should break free.
If by chance someone loctited the race in.. you may want to heat the race.. that would heat up the case. Very low flame, you really dont need much heat.. Then hit the race with a cold wet rag and shrink it.. The heat on the race would loosen any loctite and then expand the case. Cold rag shinks the race and hammer a way.. It should come out if it was installed correctly..
Good luck with it.. let us know how it goes..
Dick
I built a tool to pry the race out. When there is the plug in front of the race. I do what you guys are talking about for the stuborn ones..
Put a 1" thick piece of aluminum across the opening of the bullet with a hole in it and use 5/8" threaded rod connected to the puller jaws. It is tight fit to get your hand in there and open the jaws, but once accomplished, I tighten the nut on top and it puts much more force on the puller. A bit of heat from the outside with tension on the race.. and it should break free.
If by chance someone loctited the race in.. you may want to heat the race.. that would heat up the case. Very low flame, you really dont need much heat.. Then hit the race with a cold wet rag and shrink it.. The heat on the race would loosen any loctite and then expand the case. Cold rag shinks the race and hammer a way.. It should come out if it was installed correctly..
Good luck with it.. let us know how it goes..
Dick
Last edited by Mr Gadgets; 01-08-2008 at 05:56 AM.
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The 3 jaw and threaded 5/8" rod, plate and huge nut did the trick. Popped right out, no heat needed. I was surprised actually, would have thought the 20 lb slide hammer would have had way more force than the nut but nope. Oh... I did soak it in PB for a week.