Free play
#1
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Free play
Have a bravo 1 & when you move the outdrive side to side with your hands it goes about 2 inches each way. Looking at the steering wheel while doing this it doesn;'t move. So since I just pulled the engine I wanted to get this straightened out. Something has to be worn out, but I have no idea what it could be. Boat has standard cable style steering.
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Have a bravo 1 & when you move the outdrive side to side with your hands it goes about 2 inches each way. Looking at the steering wheel while doing this it doesn;'t move. So since I just pulled the engine I wanted to get this straightened out. Something has to be worn out, but I have no idea what it could be. Boat has standard cable style steering.
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snopro,
Sorry to disagree, but no way the gimbal bearing can cause that.
The play is most likely in the gimbal ring. As was said, most likley the tiller arm. Possibly the hinge pins, the ring or helmet.
Dont use the repair kit. You really dont want to be drilling huge holes in the gimbal.
Sorry to disagree, but no way the gimbal bearing can cause that.
The play is most likely in the gimbal ring. As was said, most likley the tiller arm. Possibly the hinge pins, the ring or helmet.
Dont use the repair kit. You really dont want to be drilling huge holes in the gimbal.
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A gimbal bearing has nothing to do with the steering - 90% of the time it's caused by the Gimbal ring itself being worn - and no, tightening the two nuts accesible from the outside will not fix the problem. It will most likely have to be replaced. If the engine is out you'll be able to fix this without using the access kit as mentioned. The only reason for the access kit is to NOT pull the engine when needing to access the steering arm. Generally the steering shaft itself doesn't wear - but the seal area needs to be inspected for grooves. I agree with going to external rams - even the half system works better than the factory one.
#7
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If you have the money i would fit a new a new transom assembly especially since you have the engine out.I have mucked around far too many times repairing old worn out gimbles.Chances are if the steering arm is worn the other pivot points in the assembly are too.Merc used to make the transom assembly with grease nipples in all the right places.Keep the grease up to them and basically they lasted forever.Now they use silly fibre type bushes that are made to wear quick.
The steering arm is a shaft with a squared section.Around this squared section is clamped with a through bolt the steering arm.Both pieces are cast.When you look at it you think i can just tighten the bolt.Repairs never seem to last very long.Get a whole new one you'll be glad you did.
The steering arm is a shaft with a squared section.Around this squared section is clamped with a through bolt the steering arm.Both pieces are cast.When you look at it you think i can just tighten the bolt.Repairs never seem to last very long.Get a whole new one you'll be glad you did.
#9
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Here is a link for you. http://www.jrmarine.com/products/gimbal_repair.htm
They have great products for this type of repair and with their stronger u-bolt for the upper pin it does not weaken and wear as easily.
They have great products for this type of repair and with their stronger u-bolt for the upper pin it does not weaken and wear as easily.
#10
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Fast. W. I had the same problem. THe nut and the pin in the steering arm is the problem. Fix it, for the short term.
Go with full hydro. after the repair. Tighten the 2 bolts form the outside (65 Ft. Pound, I think) but the square pivot "nut" and the pin MUST BE REPAIRED. Search my old thread on this .. more good info. The design is a problem and Merc. is aware of it. (no help tho.) Once there is a little play, it will get worse.
Go with full hydro. after the repair. Tighten the 2 bolts form the outside (65 Ft. Pound, I think) but the square pivot "nut" and the pin MUST BE REPAIRED. Search my old thread on this .. more good info. The design is a problem and Merc. is aware of it. (no help tho.) Once there is a little play, it will get worse.