Had a few drops coming out the LWP holes this spring when I tilted the drive up. I looked up inside the LWP holes to see if I could see oil tracks coming down the water tube, but didn't see anything. In researching, I found a few that had the 'puck' leak in front of the prop shaft assembly. Can't see the bottom of the puck, so don't know if that's the culprit. Also read where pressure testing won't show if the puck is leaking.

Here's my wishful thinking:
Is it possible ....I pumped the gear lube in to fast and pushed past the square O-ring between the lower and upper 1/2's when I changed the lube last fall?
Thinking possibly that was the case and over winter the oil 'track' has since dried up in the water tube.
Keep in mind I only had several drops of lube come out, and only when I titled the drives up, so it has puddled over winter inside the pick up slots.



Thoughts?

Thanks

I would attempted to wash the inner area with mineral spirits. Then blow dry and then look for more oil.
If you were to have the plug in the upper hole I could see over psi of the drive enough to push out a seal. But the path of least resistance would be the plug hole, so I doubt it would leak past the orings. Have you tried pressure testing the drive? I generally pump them to 15psi and leave them set for 24hrs or more. I would then try a vaccum check, if the puck is loose it should loose vaccum. The vaccum would be pulling the puck in, like the water psi was pushing it in.. not as much, but might show you something.
Hope this helps.
Dick

I leave the top vent screw out while filling from the bottom screw until lube starts to come out the top one. Then I install the top screw and keep pumping until starts to enter the drive bottle. I will admit I have put some pressure on the pump handle when filling. When you say "push out a seal" would this be the small square one? Just thought with it being in a groove, it wouldn't get dislodged, but more of a oil forced past it.

I haven't tested for pressure or vacuum as of yet because the drive bottle is still intact and the cap won't seal. Also not so confident on the push-lock fitting on the transom plate for the remote bottle hose. I assumed to check ideally, drive should be removed from the boat, but would have to seal the check ball somehow when vacuum testing. Plus didn't know the amount to pump up.

Thanks

Yes, remove the drive to pressure check.

15 lbs is the test I have used for 20 plus years. If it is going to leak I have found the gauge will move in the first 30 minutes.

My guess is some salt has accumulated around the quad ring and is leaking lube in to the water passage.

Yes, you are correct, the seal should not be forced out. And unless you had a restriction on the top plug, the pressure wouldnt get high enough to force it out.
Jim's idea of the corrosion is a good possiblity. But I am still headed toward the puck. I would pull the drive and pressure it up. As far as vaccum, the spring on the ball is pretty stout. It may leak a bit at first, but I think as the vaccum decreased, it should seal at some point and hold at there.
At least with the two tests you could get an idea of what is happening. After a good wash, if more oil shows up, you know you have a problem.
I use a dunk tank to find the very tiny leaks. Saves the headache of pulling the whole drive down to find a pin hole leak.