I removed my drives for service over the weekend to discover drive oil inside the bellows. I began to add oil which eventually started to flow from the carrier assy. Noticed on Bam's site there is several o-rings and seals that will be replaced. Is there any bearing pre-load any anything I should know when doing this? Also where can I purchase the ring nut tool?

Pro Marine has the parts and tools. http://www.promarineusa.com or BAM

You will also need a needle type inch/lb wrench to set the bearing preload. It may be cheaper to have it done if you have to buy the tools.

Its most likely the yoke seal and it is possible the yoke is grooved. It may need replacement too.

Thanks Jim. I originally thought of taking it somewhere to get done. My train of thought is I'll have the tools to do the other side when its time. Just curious on the extent of damage with lack of lubrication to the bearings and upper gears.

Jimmy...slap me with a wet noodle but I always check the preload on the bearing pack by hand... I guess you just get a "feel" for it over time!

Lots of things I threw away the inch/lb wrench...

How bout you?

I think you'll be ok, it's pretty common. Figure a #6 has a dry sump oiling system and it's not immersed in oil, just splash... As it is the upper is only half filled.

After a busy week at work I had no time to order the tool and seal. Is there an alternative to remove the retainer?

What drive do you have?

Most likely you can remove it but it will be hard to re-install. If it's not a new XR, In a pinch I've removed the retainer with a big flat punch and a hammer working it around until it's loose. You have to be careful not to knock off the tabs when you hammer it. It's probably best to borrow the tool from someone, at least to put it back together.

Also, like Jimmy said you may also need the yoke but you wont know until you get it apart. If there is a tiny groove in the yoke you can buff it out with wet sand paper, if it's deep it's garbage.

I have used a big outside spanner wrench that you can get from graingers and a dead blow to get them apart BUT you may knock a notch or a tooth off the retainer if your not careful. A little heat doesn't hurt euither if its the first time its ever been apart.I used to use a breaker bar and k/d brand gm ac adjusting tool to get them apart and use the same tool with a torque qrench to reassemble them but the spanner works better. I put them back together with the chrome moly steel retainer that max machine worx sells,its pretty durable vs the stock aluminum,Smitty
the 1apc6 fits the best
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...=19&submit.y=7

What do you charge for this.