DesertRage

iTrader: (2)

Would an XR drive fit on a 1996 standard bravo 1 transom assembly if the red dot gimbal bearing was installed? If so, would the 1996 standard bravo drive be able to be switch back with the red dot bearing still installed?

I have the opportunity to borrow an XR drive with a 2” shorty to see how my hull likes it. I am wondering how much work would be involve to try it for a day on the water.

Thanks guys!

Bryan Rose

Just swap lowers....a lot easier.

Bryan

diggster69

A standard bravo 1 upper and a bravo xr upper use different gimbal bearings, with two people swapping the lower would be easier no shift cable or steering .

DesertRage

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like I would need to take the XR gimbal bearing back out of my transom assembly when I switch back to the standard drive? Is the ID of these bearing (input shaft diameter) the difference?

What is involved in switching the lowers? Can you just drain the oil and then remove the lower unit? Are there gaskets that will need to be replaced.

The donor boat will not go out when I borrow his drive so it will only be one boat getting refitted.

Thanks to all who have replied!

diggster69

Drian the oil remove the 6 nuts if the seals are good reassemble and fill from the bottom.
Plus you will have new oil in your drive afterward.

DesertRage

iTrader: (2)

Exactly what I needed to know. I'll just swap out the lowers.

Thanks guys!

1BIGJIM

iTrader: (1)

They are the same. Mercuriser only sells the RED dot bearing now.

The X drives have a larger U-Joint that is why the RED dot bearing is needed. You also need spacers in the rams to limit the total travel of the drive going up.

I just changed to an X-drive a month ago and did a lot of research this in depth. I already had the RED dot bearing, put 2 hours on it and pulled the drive to make sure nothing was binding.

DesertRage

iTrader: (2)

1BigJim,

A couple questions if you don't mind....

Before changing to the X drive, were you running a standard bravo 1 with the red dot? What year transom assembly?

Is the need for the trim ram spacers because the larger X-drive u-joint will not operate at as large of an angle?

Thanks, I would rather switch the complete drive if that is possible. I would install a new Red Dot bearing if it could stay installed when returning to the standard bravo 1.

1BIGJIM

iTrader: (1)

I changed the gimbal bearing a couple of years ago when I replaced the gimal ring. My transom assembly is a 1990.

The trim limit spaces are needed because the angle with the larger U-joint can/or will hit the housing. I think the spacers where $5 from Mercuriser. For testing when you trailer or raise the outdrive do not put it in the full up position.

If you have changed the gimbal bearing in the last few years chances are you already have it. If you still have the original from 1996 you got your moneys worth out of it.

I can send you the service Bulletin on changing to an X drive.
Pm or post your email address. I think I have it at home some where.

Mr Gadgets

Desert,
As BigJim says the newer bearings are all ok with the newer X drives. The difference is the newer bearing is offset by .050" (deeper) as I was told. The trim limit spacers stop the trim up movement so the ujoints dont get pinched by the yokes. So if you are just using the drive for a quick test, then make sure you dont trim it all the way up and you will be fine. How much.. well, if you measure your drive in the full up position, then when you remove it tip the inputshaft up, like it was in the trailer position. Now do that with the XR drive. If it has the old style very large ujoints you will see the difference in angle quite easily. If the XR has the Metric ujoints the difference is will not be much. Maybe BigJim can chime in about that bulletin if they mentioned the new and old style input shafts. Originally the gimbal bearing upgrade kit (new bearing and trim limit spacers) was designed to solve the problem with the old style input shaft. The newer Metric style (no grease fittings) has smaller ujoints and I am not sure if it causes the same interference problem that the old stlye had. Comparing the angle of an old style B1 input shaft and the new XR metric input shaft, it looks to me like they solved the original issue with the new shaft, but check to be on the safe side.

Hope this helps.
Dick