cluch cone
#5
Mr. Gadgets;
The upper half of the drive was updated 4 years ago. But now the drive is getting harder to shift in and out of gear.
#6
Usually a bad cone will cause slippage. By hard shifting do you mean it takes a lot of effort to move it into gear or the shifter handle moves all the way, but it doesnt go in? And is it just Fwd or Rev. I would pull the back cap and see if the detent ball has come apart. It also could be the cable, if effort is high shifting. I would pull the drive and see how the cable moves. Then using a finishing nail, push the shift linkage (in the drive) in while turning the input shaft. You dont necessarily need to do the both at the same time, but if it doenst go in easily, rotate the input shaft. You should be able to feel the detent ball, as you push and pull the linkage into/out of the drive.
If your drive has been upgraded the easiest way to check for the new gear set, is to pull the top cap and look at the needle bearings in the thrust bearing on top of the gear. The old ones were .078" thick, the new ones are .125" thick. Also the race on the tower will be slid down, exposing about 1/8" of the tower.
Hope this helps.
Dick
If your drive has been upgraded the easiest way to check for the new gear set, is to pull the top cap and look at the needle bearings in the thrust bearing on top of the gear. The old ones were .078" thick, the new ones are .125" thick. Also the race on the tower will be slid down, exposing about 1/8" of the tower.
Hope this helps.
Dick
#7
[QUOTE=Mr Gadgets;2772976]Usually a bad cone will cause slippage. By hard shifting do you mean it takes a lot of effort to move it into gear or the shifter handle moves all the way, but it doesnt go in? And is it just Fwd or Rev. I would pull the back cap and see if the detent ball has come apart. It also could be the cable, if effort is high shifting. I would pull the drive and see how the cable moves. Then using a finishing nail, push the shift linkage (in the drive) in while turning the input shaft. You dont necessarily need to do the both at the same time, but if it doenst go in easily, rotate the input shaft. You should be able to feel the detent ball, as you push and pull the linkage into/out of the drive.
If your drive has been upgraded the easiest way to check for the new gear set, is to pull the top cap and look at the needle bearings in the thrust bearing on top of the gear. The old ones were .078" thick, the new ones are .125" thick. Also the race on the tower will be slid down, exposing about 1/8" of the tower.
Mr; Gadgets
Yes it dose slip a little, but it is also a little harder to shift. Can just the cone be replaced.Or dose the driven gears need to be replaced as well?
If your drive has been upgraded the easiest way to check for the new gear set, is to pull the top cap and look at the needle bearings in the thrust bearing on top of the gear. The old ones were .078" thick, the new ones are .125" thick. Also the race on the tower will be slid down, exposing about 1/8" of the tower.
Mr; Gadgets
Yes it dose slip a little, but it is also a little harder to shift. Can just the cone be replaced.Or dose the driven gears need to be replaced as well?
#8
It depends on the surface of the gears where the cone engages. If it is scored or warped, then they need to be changed. If the surface is ok, then just the cone. I have polished the surface with 600grit. But if it is scored, then no..






