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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 2854964)
Those stud type mounts are known to have the lower adjusting nut back down, which lowers the motor and throws the alignment off. 99% of the time when you see a space between the upper lock nut and the mount, this is the case and can be corrected by simply tightening the LOWER nut back up. As tempting as it may be, don't turn the top nut. Leave it be. By tightening the lower nut back up, that'll rasie the motor back up and in alignment, most of the time if it was done right in the 1st place. Or at least it'll be very close. Still check with the tool.
I prefer the AL spline couplers. You'll be fine. Plus rather have the couple wear than the drive shaft. thanks |
Not sure if the guys mentioned it, But there is a tab plate that bends over the bottom nut to keep it from coming loose/dropping. Two wings on the plate bend over the nut.
That plate does not even work that great. I thought I had them bent over good after a engine rebuild and the bottom nut still dropped. Just make sure there bent really good, I tapped on them with a hammer the second time. |
Most of my experience is in racing and steel has always been the way to go there. Still you make a valid point though I've never noticed the input splines wearing.
PS. Mary Ann of course. |
Originally Posted by mathef
(Post 2855047)
Yeah I can understand the nuts backing off. You think they would have came up with something a little better, maybe double nutting the studs. Alignment tool will be used for sure, don't really wanna take any chances.
thanks 1 of my previous boats had the stud type mounts that would back down a couple times a yr. Even with new tab locks. In the end, I took a piece of pipe and cut it the same lenght as the space between the bottom nut and the mount base, then slid it over the stud. Never had a problem after that! Mary Ann get all the votes. :grinser010: |
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